i think he needs a PWK 39mm..... 58 Pilot,CEG Needle"2nd.Clip", 180 Main !!![]()
i think he needs a PWK 39mm..... 58 Pilot,CEG Needle"2nd.Clip", 180 Main !!![]()
"07" DR650 Suzuki Dual Sport
Carb problems suck, but I wouldn't discount the cracked piston. I had a problem with cast pistons. I cracked 2 Niks in a row and my bike wouldn't run for a danm. If your piston is cracked, I would start there, especially if it ran OK before.
Personally, I would go to a 39PWK. I wouldn't bash that carb, I have never had a problem with them. I can't stand my Mikuni. I didn't like the Lectron, and I didn't like the $25 jets you had to buy for it either.
I run a 39 PWK on my "stocker" with a 60 pilot and a 190 jet in the summer. It works great.
If you have a crack in your piston, like I said before, I would start there.
Good Luck
if he has some serois port work dune to it the 35 carb will be way to small to get it to run rite no matter what you jetting you do..
JASON LISKEY
1985 atc 250r ---- finsh line axle,.fmf exhaust and rictor privateer silencer, prm grab bar.
2008 KTM 525xc quad ----- HMF exhaust, HRE chromoly stem,
86 trx 250r --- with after market chromoly frame and everything else done to it
01 400ex --- with 86 trx 250r motor
87 250x + 93 300ex both 350x powered
2 = 86 atc 350x's
86 atc 250r
83 atc 185s --- from retired guy not ridden since 87
Bandito framed 110 with 85 motor and yellow us90 fenders + tank
i agree !!! Flat Track Racing .................. BIG CARB . !!!!
BBBRRRAAAAPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP !!!!!
"07" DR650 Suzuki Dual Sport
the 39 PWK or 38m A/S would definitely be a better choice in my opinion.
If Billy wants to upgrade I think he knows where he can get rid of that 35mm, lol.
I dont think the carb size is the main issue, because before this I was running the stock 34mm PJ and it ran good...ChrisD I think you might be onto something though with the crack in the piston being part of the problem. It had to have just happened recently because I dont see it holding up to wide open continously like the last time I raced it. Who knows though. The bad thing is the previous owner of this R told me he was pretty sure the cylinder was on last bore, and it had all the nice porting on itI do have an LRD cylinder he gave me with them that needs bored though, maybe I can use it.
on the 39's.....................or PWK's .......................
other than the Clip Breaking .... i have seen "THREE" PWK's in the last 6 Year's that the Rubber Seal "in the
( NEW ) Carb." was Bad .... what that does is Let Fuel in ALL of the Circuit's and you CAN NOT GET IT JETTED ....
"07" DR650 Suzuki Dual Sport
The thing that sucked with the cracked piston (the first time) was that the bike ran, but ran like crap. You would think that it was the carb, stator, or someting else, but the piston was the problem for sure. I didn't figure it out until I pulled the head off out of frustration.
I use the Wiseco because I run the bike WOT the whole time....really. It is pinned from the time I start the race until it's done. I don't know what you have in your bike now, but I have to laugh everytime someone tells me "...the cast piston is better because you can run closer tolerances..." crap. If you flat track your bike, it takes a toll on the motor because it is usually WOT.
Anyway, enough preaching. I would swap out the piston. Check the bore measurement. You may not need to resleeve it. The bore may be fine, but the piston gave out.
The 35 has got to go though. It's a 2 stroke....more air, more fuel, higher compression, more power...
Good luck!!!
Thanks Chris...I think I'm gonna work on pulling the entire motor tomorrow and cleaning off the table here in my room where I can dissasemble it. I also need to change the main bearings because the were a little loose feeling.
Well I started taking it apart this afternoon and I had it standing the grab bar degreasing the bottom of the engine before I removed it, and found one itty bitty little tiny pin hole in the bottom frame rail that looked like rust. I went and got a chipping hamer and tapped around on the bottom of rails and found enough soft spots to make 8 or 9 holes after tapping on them with the. I also found another spot that caved in after a little bit of tapping but didn't bust all the way through like the other ones....So the bottom half of my frame has pretty much rusted from the inside out it appears
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Man billy, this just isnt how a project is sapposed to go is it. Going to tig up a new peice or get a new frame?
I dont know...I think for now I'm just gonna go with a new frame. This might be a good time to use this one to start on 250r frame jig I've been wanting to do for a couple years now though.
make it from aluminum....make it light!!!! then put me on the list for one. I've been on a mission to lighten my bike and have always wanted to make an aluminum frame, but do not have the time, nor the skill to make one.
I tried to talk Hornetpowersports into making me an aluminum frame about 2 years ago, I still want one and have been thinking about getting it done.Originally Posted by ChrisD
Originally Posted by ChrisD
Thats the ideaMaking the jig will be the hardest and most time consuming thing for sure...And I've honestly never did any type of work like that. But, it can't be to bad and as long as it fits everything on a stock frame and whatever you build fits the jig theres not much that can go wrong.
And heres the pictures of the bottom of the frame, whats left of it anyways. Like I said none of those holes were there but after tapping around with the chippingthey developed because they were very thin spots. All the little dots are from the end of the chipping
, me checking around to see if there were anymore. Those were all I found, but they were more then enough
Oh yeah I almost forgot, like my custom ultra-light handle bar levers?![]()