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Thread: Need some help with wiring...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Need some help with wiring...

    My killswitch button just snapped off from the cold, and the thing is constantly on now. I took everything off to see if i could rig a dead mans switch on there but theres maybe 30 wires that I have no idea what to do with. Theres some going to the light thats is not on there, and some just interlock with eachother. Is there anyway i could just completely eliminate all this to maybe 2 wires? Its a horrible wiring job and I want to get rid of all the unneccessary wires. the wires that connect all these are just 2 wires coming off the frame, ones a plug in box shaped on, and the others just soldered together.
    1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends

    2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    PA
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    Alright I narrowed it down to 4 wires. 3 go to the light, and the light does work, and theres 1 black wire for the kill switch. It starts up with no switch on it. So how would I hool up a switch to one wire to deplete the circuit? And how what the regular kill switch is gone how do I control high and low beam?
    1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends

    2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Thanks, the green and black killed it. So if i got a normally open kill switch, when i pressed the button it would kill the circuit right? Theres still one more problem, usually I dont run it with the light on there, but if i did hook it up, how would i control the low and high beam?
    1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends

    2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    PA
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    Well unfortunatly the whole assembly is off of another trike with an electric starter button. So when I took all the old electrical tape off it was all soldered and rigged up. Right now all im working with is the green and black wire which I will connect to the kill switch when ever I get one. So now that I know how I will wire the kill switch, when I attempt to wire the lights, Ill have to splice all the correct colors back to gather? But the problem is that the previous owner didnt use color coated wires... So some are brown, tan, white etc.. Im trying to keep it simple but with the lights its not very easy.
    1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends

    2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.

  5. #5
    InPiEcEs's Avatar
    InPiEcEs is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    You can use the starter button as your kill switch, since it is normally open, and closed when you push it. That would really mess with a guy's head.......the starter button kills the engine.....LOL.
    I'm pretty sure that your lights use the same ground as the kill.
    They just branch it off to each. If the light have an on/off switch, normally your power goes to the on/off switch, then the high/low switch.
    If there is only a high/low switch, power goes to that, and then to each bulb filament from the switch.
    If you have a multi-meter, it helps a lot. Even a cheap one is fine, unless you're gonna test a CDI or something.
    You can put it on volts DC to determine your power wire, and ohms to figure out what's connected to what when you flip your switches.
    One piece at a time. Status: The Beast is Done..06-23-07
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