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Thread: need expert advice-extractor broken off "sh**"!!!! (pictures)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    U.P. of Michigan
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    need expert advice-extractor broken off "sh**"!!!! (pictures)

    YTM 200K

    Hello all!
    One of my clutch plate screws broke off at the threads (marked with an "x") I got 1/2 of the threads out with an extractor, then broke a "+" style extractor about 1/4 inch of it off in the last piece. way at the bottom.
    I would assume now I have to pull off the next cover section and try to dig it out?
    probably not a good Idea to reassemble without this bolt???
    I wouldnt think the hardened steel extractor could be drilled out could it???
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails brokenscrew 003.jpg   brokenscrew 004.jpg   brokenscrew 002.jpg  
    Last edited by jagerlager; 01-24-2007 at 07:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Rochester NY
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    I don't see any pics! Where are they?
    85 200x-sold
    82 185s
    85 250r
    92 cr500R
    94 Arctic Cat Thundercat 900





  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    U.P. of Michigan
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    O.K. fixed the picture thing... sorry about that.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    N.W. Alabama
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    there are some extractor sets that might work.try this sight .if it loads right
    http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...5010&PMCTLG=00

  5. #5
    burnoutboy's Avatar
    burnoutboy is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    New Zealand.
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    I had the same problem as you. My local engeneering firm extracted it for $10.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Oregon
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    2,471
    Take the Next Cover off , drill it out from the rear if possible ( once cover is removed )

    If you need to - do a HeliCoil Kit - from Napa auto parts ...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
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    1,090
    drilling out from the rear sounds good - also when this is not possible there are left handed drill bits that seem to work well.
    sometimes penetrating oil and heat may help but the best tool for these problems is patience.



    ha ha at expert help!
    Last edited by rally4x4racer; 01-24-2007 at 11:50 PM. Reason: retarded speller
    quiet people seem intelligent

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
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    If the extractor is in there you can forget about the drill bit..... You can try getting a piece of carbide, put it in a milling machine and get it spinning real fast and that will melt/destroy a hardened extractor, tap or other hardened metal. Only other way is to chip it out with a good punch, it's hardened but it will shatter or chip away in pieces.
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    U.P. of Michigan
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    I can sure see how patience is the best tool for stuff like this!

    I dont know how drilling it from the back would work since the stuck extractor and bolt bottom are all the way down to the case (black line in the pictures). so probably just take the next case section off and see if I can work the extractor out ... or take it to someone qualified to do such things, its so much fun to do it yourself though!

    I shouldve easily known that the extractor was starting to bend though!!!! and then... SNAP. hindsight

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
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    1,090
    true - i did not read that very carefully. putting a drillbit ontop that extractor is going to make it worse.

    so far i think the backside is your best bet if you can get to it. just start drilling and it should eventually catch and turn the threads out.

    by the way - extractors suck. if you need one in the future try to use something else prior to going extractor mode. I use the "gripper" sockets and lefty's - in fact i almost always break the extractors when i use them. Maybe we should quit buying the cheap *Edited**Edited**Edited**Edited*?
    Last edited by rally4x4racer; 01-24-2007 at 11:51 PM.
    quiet people seem intelligent

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Oregon
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    2,471
    Been their done that ... ReMove the Case - drill from the back adding lot's of wd40 or pb blaster .

    if you damage the threads - buy a HeliCoil Kit from NAPA auto parts ...

    It does take - Patience & Time

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
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    It doesn't look like he can get to the back. Looks like the right center case is where the threads are and that may not have anything for a backside other than a lump of cast aluminum. Not to mention that it looks like he will have to split the case to get to it. I'd find a way to get out that hardened stuff and then drill it out and hope to get a 6mm metric helicoil in there or change threads to something a bit larger. What is that? An auto 200 motor??
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Oregon
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    2,471
    Should look at a Manual see if it's possible to remove from the rear ( Before Removing the Case )

    If you can't figure it out , Just take it to a machine shop ...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    U.P. of Michigan
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    Yeah.. its a yamaha ytm 200 motor.
    threads are 6mm
    I removed the clutch stuff and removed the next case part. Its just a hair over 1/8" of the hardened steel extractor in there and about that first 1/8"of threads are messed up at this point. tried to drill it out with a better bit... no go, just spun on the top.
    perhaps a diamond dremmel bit could grind it out??

    Ill try to get some better pictures of it now that Im right on it.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    U.P. of Michigan
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    A better picture, with the cases off.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails brokenscrewdetail 058.jpg  

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