1986 250r Engine Paint

[OSR]

I found another paint that is very close to the gray that is on the 1986 r engines.
EASTWOOD "factory gray high temp(1200 degree F.)coating spray /part#10395z


EASTWOOD is a company that handles products for automotive restorations.






OSR

[brddog7683]

thanks I'll check that out. I did buy some Dupli-color Cast Coat Iron DE1651 that I'm intending to use as it looks very close too.
I'm still looking for the right color for the swinger on my 86 R. I'm sure I will have to get some acrylic enamel and shoot that color but haven't found the correct shade , can you recommend something for that?
Thanks

[dufrain]

There is a chart on this site or org somewhere for most of the paint codes.If you had a sample ,like a close to nos gold hub or something you could take it in to a good paint shop and they could use their machine they sit on the paint and it tells what code to use.

[Rocketblt]

Yeah the last time I took it to ppg it cost me over $200 bucks in paint products harder and paint match that cured at a totally darker color. Seems like all I have been doing for 3 years is bead blasting and stripping paint... haha... did the frame 3 times already, and motor twice. Either I get a very close color out of the and it peels and is not durable. Or Mr scanner at ppg cant match sh#$t correctly. Does anyone have the is all- end all- answers for the 1986 ATC250R silver metallic gray/gold swing arm dilemma? Something that is very closely color matched and yet highly durable?

[fmnrd]

sunrise red from krylon is exact match out of a can for the frame

[Red Rider]

For the darkshot silver engine color, I use Dupli-Color high performance wheel coating (WP102 Graphite). It's resistant to brake dust, chemicals, cleaning solvents, heat, & chipping. It's a metallic grey color that's very close to the original '86 250R engine color. I've only used it on my cylinder, which already has a rough texture to it, and it looks great. It may be a tad glossy for smooth metal surfaces such as the side cases, but as for color match, it's damn near perfect.

[Rocketblt]

Yeah I matched up the sunrise red krylon last October after stripping my rough powder coat job since I did it with with a heating lamp. The powder coat was dead on but cured rough. I tried to build up with Krylon. It is damn near perfect in color. But I question its durability So I stripped that too. I can get R 109 Passion Red from Color Rite or PPG match that red color in a harder urethane. Hey Red Rider. I remember reading "Dark Shot Silver" from the Dirtwheels magazine in 86. They also referred to it as "Space Age Silver" too. Duplicolor Dark Gray 8800564 is dead nutz! With one small variance. The duplicolor variance has smidge less metallic flake then the oem finish. But its not durable. I applied it to a stator cover, and its chipping already. Unless im sure that color was applied in a urethane finish with air gun, reducer, and all that jazz.

I had one of my jugs worked on last week since I busted yet another exhaust bolt in my second jug along with my ez- out {why they call them easy is beyond me? haha..) The welder/machinist suggested that I zinc chromate all aluminum before painting. I have chromating kits from casewell along with a rectifier so that's all good for me to do. I am looking for a finish that is as durable as Honda. Gas/Oil/Heat resistant, procedure,color match as Honda would have done it. Is anyone here familar with Honda factory procedure, or refinishing motorcycle engines or aluminum for durability? Should I try a POR-15 product, then a base coat, then clear top coat? Darius and many other motorcycle enthusiast have pointed me in the right direction as far as Honda color code. NH-10M S Dark Silver. If I can get a sample of that one code, then I could verify. As far as the swingarm? Should I spend the $$$ and have that re anodized as the original was? Or should I powdercoat or paint, and will it remain as durable if certain procedure are taken? cause either one paint or powder doesn't look too durable for the swinger.

Any tips from users who have done restorations or are involved with metal working or refinishing on here would be appreciated.

[Red Rider]

As far as the swingarm? Should I spend the $$$ and have that re anodized as the original was? Or should I powdercoat or paint, and will it remain as durable if certain procedure are taken? cause either one paint or powder doesn't look too durable for the swinger.

Rocket, I assume you're talking about an '86 250R here. The swingarms on the 85-86 250R's were painted, not anodized. Only the 88-89 TRX250R's swingarms were anodized. If you repaint your swingarm, the paint will eventually get chipped & sandblasted off, just like it most likely is now. Once again, powdercoating will provide a much more durable finish. I had my swingarm powdercoated and ran it for 14 years, and the powdercoat still looked great when I removed it to switch to an aluminum swingarm.

[Rocketblt]

Hmmm Thatnks for the tip . I did not know that only certain years were anodized. I just firgured they all were being that an aluminum swing arm is exposed to the elements such as rocks, gravel. etc, and that any manufacturer would put an anodized finish on that since it is durable. Ive also read somewhere years ago that most motorcycle manufacturers do anodize their swing arms so?...But if you say thwy ere painted then by all means I will powder coat it with the matching gold sparkle. Hey red rider, what elements do you ride in to contribute to 14 year durability on your swinger? Gravel and mud, or just sand?

[Red Rider]

Only the 88-89 TRX250R's had aluminum swingarms. All of the ATC250R's swingarms were steel. It was only ridden in the sanddunes after it was powdercoated. Prior to the powdercoating it was ridden in all types of terrain (gravel, sand, hardpack, trails, streams, & the occasional mud puddle), but based on the way the paint looked like it was "sandblasted" off, I think the dunes did the most damage to the paint.

[Rocketblt]

Hey everyone. I just got back from the DuPont Distributor. I had the counter parts guy mix me up a pint of single stage urethane, and purchased some flatterer to add to paint to attempt a low-level gloss, also got reducer, and hardener for the 86 250R Engine Color. I am going to do some "spray out's" before I hit the engine cases and cylinder with this color. I will post the results and pictures. Anyone who is interested, go to your nearest Du Pont distributor, and ask to look at a gray light metallic color chip book. Look for colors LM158IBA. I went with LM158, and matched it up with original crankcase, and paint. But take a look at colors LM156,LM157,LM158,and LM159 for comparison purposes anyways. LM158 is damn near close if not perfect match. Will see how it sprays. I am using a product called aluthane for primer. Check that out too! Will return with results and pics.