My 1986 250sx thread (newest pics on page 4)

[Kintore]

Nice ride doug,

I got some 200x forks, trips and a front hub if your wanting to make the swap over to the 200 front end?

[Dirtcrasher]

Nice score, great complete 86. Thats good, the 86 has the good carburetor and the updated rear swingarm/brake system.

Theres nothing wrong with the lower mount other than the metal sleeve is worn out and it allows the shock to slide to one side. All the SX lower mounts wear out because of dirt and water entry.

Be sure to take apart that swingarm/diff and give it a new rubber boot if there is any hint of water entry into that rear diff fluid.

[mad_max]

The Maier fenders do not have the trunk and I'm pretty sure they don't have the mudflap holes either.. you need to drill them.

Nope, Maier's do have the mudflap holes, my SX has Maier plastic.

[Dirtcrasher]

I use the Maier fenders and "race cut" the part where the mud flaps go on. If you don't want to get dirty, leave the fender alone and run the flaps. I like the sportier look with them cut and the 350X front ends.

I'll take some pictures later but they won't be as clean as double MM's are, LOL!!

The problem with the SX's is the gas tank. Unless you have a good stocker, you have to run the plastic Clarke. It's a great tank but the white looks crappy after use and only the red stays nice. Them you have to run a white rear fender because the Maier doesn't match the Clarke red and it looks shitee. One of my SX's looks good but I don't like the other, I need another white fender...

Hey max, get that perforated strap off of that tailight!! You keep that thing nice, how could you allow that on there??J/K

Need to grab up some 1/8 aluminum and make a mount for that badboy.

[Dammit!]

My tank is actually pretty nice. It has a couple of rock chips in it but no dents and no rust inside.

[Dirtcrasher]

My tank is actually pretty nice. It has a couple of rock chips in it but no dents and no rust inside.

Nice! Then just grab a red Maier and you'll be all set. I think there under 100$, it is sad to lose that trunk though. I have an OEM in my barn that I don't run. It's not mint but I still don't want to wreck it.

All this NOS OEM crap is just way too expensive for the average blue collar struggling American worker......

[Huffa]

MadMax, How you doing, don't see you much on here any more? I have a ? for you here..........

I have been thinking about getting a Maiers rear fender for mine but since I'm highly concerned with fit and finish your rear fender shot there raises a concern about how the flaps fit?

To me they don't look flush to the fender, almost like the mold does not accept them right and that would bother me enough to not want it. Maybe the angle of the pic makes it look worse then it really is, so could you possibly take some identiacl pictures like my stock one here to compare?

A good OEM SX rear, I mean a really nice one (I never saw one yet for sale) would go for well over 200 bucks I bet, maybe even 300! Seems they all have a crack somewhere or other so this is why I'm thinking of putting on the Maiers.

OH man, now that I look at yours again the fit, well there is not fit on the rear, it does not even except the flap at all how it should go. Can the Maiers be cut so it will except it? At the very end of OEM flap it hooks in underneath the fender, if you trimmed the Maiers could you make the hook part, hook too?

Sorry to make a big deal over this but I'm picky and the fit looks downright poor to me.

[Huffa]

I use the Maier fenders and "race cut" the part where the mud flaps go on. If you don't want to get dirty, leave the fender alone and run the flaps. I like the sportier look with them cut and the 350X front ends.

I'll take some pictures later but they won't be as clean as double MM's are, LOL!!

The problem with the SX's is the gas tank. Unless you have a good stocker, you have to run the plastic Clarke. It's a great tank but the white looks crappy after use and only the red stays nice. Them you have to run a white rear fender because the Maier doesn't match the Clarke red and it looks shitee. One of my SX's looks good but I don't like the other, I need another white fender...

Hey max, get that perforated strap off of that tailight!! You keep that thing nice, how could you allow that on there??J/K

Need to grab up some 1/8 aluminum and make a mount for that badboy.

Why would a white tank look crappier then a red tank after use, that makes no sense? Equally taken care of, both colors should look the same.

[chris200x]

white plastic tanks tend to yellow from the gas after a while.

[the great gazoo]

Oh come on, now! Any one on here ever hear of bleach? All you have to do with those white Clarke(or IMS) tanks is buy a bottle of 'Softscrub" with bleach. I've used this stuff for years on many different white plastics, especially fuel tanks. It REALLY works if you use it before the tank starts yellowing. Try it out, you'll be pleasantly surprised! TGG..................

[Dammit!]

Man I really hate it when people neglect their machines. I just opened up the airbox a little while ago, don't know why on earth I didn't do this when I looked at originally because I usually do but, there was no air filter. Just the metal cage and what was left of the rotten foam was at the bottom of the airbox. A large amount of thick dust got into the carb and motor. I cannot believe it started as easy as it does and runs good with no smoke. Doesn't idle real well but that's probably a clogged pilot after seeing this mess.

Also, I'm really sick of the cheap arse screws on carbs. I don't think I've ever had a carb that didn't have chewed up screws on the float bowl because the metal is so soft.

Question 1: I haven't dealt with jetting this type of carb yet. This is actually the first time I've seen one of these two piece main jets. What is the deal with that? The little end cap was so loose it was about to fall off. Is that intended to be some sort of adjustable part or should it be snug against the other part of the main jet?

Question 2: Is the float bowl o-ring still available or is that discontinued? How about the choke cable?

Here's a pic of the crap that was going straight into the carb. Unbelievable.

[Dirtcrasher]

MadMax, How you doing, don't see you much on here any more? I have a ? for you here..........

I have been thinking about getting a Maiers rear fender for mine but since I'm highly concerned with fit and finish your rear fender shot there raises a concern about how the flaps fit?

To me they don't look flush to the fender, almost like the mold does not accept them right and that would bother me enough to not want it. Maybe the angle of the pic makes it look worse then it really is, so could you possibly take some identiacl pictures like my stock one here to compare?

A good OEM SX rear, I mean a really nice one (I never saw one yet for sale) would go for well over 200 bucks I bet, maybe even 300! Seems they all have a crack somewhere or other so this is why I'm thinking of putting on the Maiers.

OH man, now that I look at yours again the fit, well there is not fit on the rear, it does not even except the flap at all how it should go. Can the Maiers be cut so it will except it? At the very end of OEM flap it hooks in underneath the fender, if you trimmed the Maiers could you make the hook part, hook too?

Sorry to make a big deal over this but I'm picky and the fit looks downright poor to me.

MAIER will never please anyone if they want an OEM look. Forget the fit and finish it isn't even close. OEM is a waste of money unless you have money to waste. One crash and your prestine fender is junk. Stock Maier is about 100$ for a rear.

As for your post about the tank fading not making sense. The white tank turns yellow. Softscrub does not fix it, it is a yellowish color that gets into the plastic and doesn't come out, period... The red tank is a much better choice but it limits your other plastic options.

[Dirtcrasher]

Man I really hate it when people neglect their machines. I just opened up the airbox a little while ago, don't know why on earth I didn't do this when I looked at originally because I usually do but, there was no air filter. Just the metal cage and what was left of the rotten foam was at the bottom of the airbox. A large amount of thick dust got into the carb and motor. I cannot believe it started as easy as it does and runs good with no smoke. Doesn't idle real well but that's probably a clogged pilot after seeing this mess.

Also, I'm really sick of the cheap arse screws on carbs. I don't think I've ever had a carb that didn't have chewed up screws on the float bowl because the metal is so soft.

Question 1: I haven't dealt with jetting this type of carb yet. This is actually the first time I've seen one of these two piece main jets. What is the deal with that? The little end cap was so loose it was about to fall off. Is that intended to be some sort of adjustable part or should it be snug against the other part of the main jet?

Question 2: Is the float bowl o-ring still available or is that discontinued? How about the choke cable?

Here's a pic of the crap that was going straight into the carb. Unbelievable.

The float bowl ring is a molded ring, you have to buy the complete kit from Honda which is an expensive gasket set. Buy a moose or EBAY rebuild kit for an SX or a 350X if the SX isn't available - you'll get all the jets and the airscrew oring, bowl ring etc etc.

Keep the jet snug. The 2 piece jet can be replaced with a one piece, it's just the way they did it. Toss on a 350X bowl and the main jet is accessable with the carb on the trike.

I always replace bowl screws with SS allen heads, yes - the stockers don't last unless you have a really good screwdriver, are the 1st one to take it apart and have a dab of grease on the threads.

Sorry about the no AF, it is very frustrating to know that people could care less

[Huffa]

MAIER will never please anyone if they want an OEM look. Forget the fit and finish it isn't even close. OEM is a waste of money unless you have money to waste. One crash and your prestine fender is junk. Stock Maier is about 100$ for a rear.

As for your post about the tank fading not making sense. The white tank turns yellow. Softscrub does not fix it, it is a yellowish color that gets into the plastic and doesn't come out, period... The red tank is a much better choice but it limits your other plastic options.

Well Maiers is out of the ? if the fit is that bad. I would not go as far to say one crash and a OEM is junk. Just depends on the crash.

I thought he meant a metal tank at 1st. Just read it too fast.

I have seen really old (80's) white plastic tanks look really nice yet, maybe it just depends if they had gas in them their whole life or not? The yellow gets on red tanks too but it can be scraped off, why could you not scrape it off a white tank too?

I may have a choke cable for you too, .

[Dammit!]

The yellow on a white tank is a different animal than the oxidizing you see on R tanks. The yellow comes from the inside out. The material gets discolored over time because the fumes penetrate the plastic.

I haven't tried it but, it's possible that if you were to line a white plastic tank with red kote, that would stop the fumes and stop the problem. Taht would let you apply decals to a plastic tank without the bubbling too (assuming it works).