More Tri-Z questions

[TimSr]

Change your tranny oil before you do anything! Get that tranny fluid out of there. A few things here. Your silencer most likely has nothing to do with backpressure, as its only a straight-through extension. It does not restrict airflow, but put it back on anyways. The best way to have a new trike and no place to ride is to piss of everybody in the surrounding square mile. A Z is plenty loud with a good working silencer. Second , get that tranny fuild out immediatly. What you are probably mistaking for a lack of low end is a clutch that wont smoothly engage. You start letting out the clutch and it grabs suddenly, and if youre not revved way up, it stalls. Just put any good name brand 10w40 OIL in there and youll be fine. Im partial to Syntec or other synthetic blends, but any 10W40 will suffice. Youll probably have to change it pretty quickly the first time till you get that other crap oil. Tranny fluid breaks down oil, and even small amounts will cause your oil to lose its viscosity. Tranny fuid is like 15w and should never be run in a crankcase. Do this before monkeying with any seals or anything else. Sounds like it has water in it, but since you dont know if they drove it through stream, or where it came from, start with clean oil, and see if it reoccurs. If it gets water in it again (gray oil) and you havent had it in water, the impeller seal is leaking.

FYI - The cooling system is positive pressure, and youll never get crank oil in the cooling system from a leaking seal, but youll get coolant in the crank. If you have oil in the cooling system, its coming through a leaking headgasket from the cylinder.

FYI - Banshee axle is interchangeable but its best to also get the Banshee locking nuts as the threaded part is wider, and the nuts are wider.

[Tri-Z 490]

I am also almost 100% positive that its a water pump seal. when the coolant mixes with oil it makes it a milky color. it was pink and milky on my tri-z to the pink is the kind of oil he used after I changed the oil it turned white and milky. the problem is that the water goes into the oild through the bad waterpump seal and then makes the oil come out the overflow. you should fix that as soon as possible it will F up your clutch and everything else because it slowely thins out the amount of oil in the bottom end to having more water and that wont lube the parts!

[Dynofox]

There has to be something wrong with your Z, mine has some pretty damn good low end.

[200xer]

my low end sucks, well kinda. If I try to drag race from a stand still, I have to slowly get it rolling and then blast it, otherwise it just bogs down. The motor runs excellent, starts right up, doesn't miss or foul plugs. The only thing is that the bike sat for about 3 years, with no oil in the bottom end. And when I replace my waterpump seal I measured the clutch plates and they measured out to what the brand new ones are. So I think that the guy before me just stuck the clutch plates in, never soaked them, then they stood dry for 3 years. Does this make sense and can I fix it?

[J.D.]

That is EXACTLY like mine 200xer!!!! Have you thought of checking your reeds? I talked to my shop teacher tonite and he said it sounds like a reed issue to him. Once I buy a gasket(your supposed to replace it after you take cover off) I'm gonna check them, and see what happens. I'll be sure to let you know what goes on after I check.

By the way, the best way to take off is rev it close to powerband, and let the clutch out fairly fast

[Kilborg]

On the Atf thing...go ahead. ATF is good stuff, I'd reccomend Ford 80 weight atf (any other quality atf will be fine too). we have used this stuff in just about everything with good luck. I'd be inclined to say it helps hold better at high temperature, as there always seems to be a bit of slippage with a real hot clutch running synthetic. The milkiness is just a bunch of water.