Holy sh it dude..the pics aren't the best but you can see the wrist work out that your in for.
CT screwed me as well, year long wait and poor work.
Holy sh it dude..the pics aren't the best but you can see the wrist work out that your in for.
CT screwed me as well, year long wait and poor work.
Yeah raffa, I had the exhaust port wide no doubt and I'm not really complaining about it. The main thing is how screwed up the intake is, and the transfers-both the inlet tunnel and the outlet ports. I've got the one exhaust side and one transfer tunnel already roughly cut into shape. Lots and lots of touch up time with the dremel and file to be correct. I guess I'll just chalk this one up to experience....
The crappy things is, they probably had the sleeve sticking out the top about 1/4", which made the sleeve 1/4" higher than your transfers(big problem at hand). Then they just machined the top of the sleeve flush with the cylinder.... And all they had to do is machine the seat of the sleeve 1/4" deeper and it would have lined up fine. I could fix that for you by the way![]()
You can fix the transfer height issue Corey? I'm thinking on just doing like I had mentioned above and zero angling it the full height of where it is now. It will make the transfer timing longer which I was trying to avoid but it beats trashing the cylinder I suppose. What do you suggest?
You should be able to heat the cylinder and pull that sleeve out and buy another sleeve from LA Sleeve. Then lower the seat the sleeve sits in by 1/4 and your transfers should line up perfectly and then you could port match the sleeve and rebore your cylinder etc. This is what I would do. I also pmed you.
I'm just not a cylinder wiz, but Ive torn into enough motors to know that is about a piss poor job, especially for a company as big as LA. Sucks you gotta deal with this crap man...
My bikes:![]()
-1982 honda 250r
-1999 HONDA 300 Fourtrax 4x4 "The Tank"
-2001 harley 1200 sporty
I just learned via a 3rd party that the 89+ sleeves are thicker then the 85-88 ones. Know what this means? My cylinder will not fit down in my center cases unless they are bored, or I lathe down the outside OD of the sleeve which is going to be very difficult to do correctly because of the port opening window. I am about seriously effed for the drag races this year.
BILLY! You got time! Split that bad boy down!!!! have the cases bored and ported why your at it. common! you can do it!
"Yes its broken, but does that really surprise you?."
"What happened? What does it look like happened?!?!"
I have thrown away 6000$ almost away on my tecate 3 and 4. From crappy dealers. I sent my cylinder away to get bored and they bored it to the maximum on a brand new sleeve. And they charged me to match my ports and 90% was good and the other 10% was bad. I had to do it my self. I am sick of paying out good money for crap work. It sucks when parts have to be sent away. And billy beleve me the damage is done. So just wait till this post is about 50 pages long and everyone saying boycot La Sleve. Ill bet if wiseco did it, it would be a better product.
The Green No More Red EVER EVER EVER AGAIN!!!!!!!
1985 KXT 250 Tecate
1984 KXT 250 Tecate Parts machine
1985 KXT 250 Tecate My vintage racer
1983 KX 250
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Pretty much.
Those bottom little ports are called Boyesen ports. Originally, they were in a whole separate chamber from the transfer tunnels. Normally, the way those are made is they flow into the bottom of the crankcase, and also connect to the transfer tunnels. The stock 500 had a good set up, keeping them separated because normally when they are connected you have adverse flow conditions. Think about it, the boyesens are flowing downwards, and the transfer tunnels are flowing upwards. They are working against themselves. The problem with how mine was originally, is that the boyesen ports were so small, they were about useless. I enlarged the outlet, and DID make it connect to where the transfer tunnels open. What I did do though, is you see in the intake at the top of where those ports start, its ramped down in such a way where the flow is not so much as going into the transfer tunnels cross wise, but going downwards, parallel next to it and not necessarily flowing directly into it. Know what I mean?
Your 250R cylinder is made a little different. If you look closely at where the rear studs come up through the cylinder, you'll notice the inside corners of the casting is kind of flatened out for a lack of a better term. The the way the boyesen ports are shaped on the Rs is, they kind of go towards the outside of the cylinder, and then back down pointing towards the crankcase. The 500 cylinder does not have that much material casted into it, to allow that kind of path.
In my last post I was referring to what you have marked in the second picture. On yours you can smooth out the bottom of the boyesen ports where it transitions in sort of a small ramp down and not such an abrupt drop off. You can work the tops of them where it angles down a little better. You could also I think, shape the bottoms of them into a little bit more of an L shape, similar to how mine are. Just be careful that you don't take out to much that you weaken the integrity of the cylinder....I really took to much out of my 500 cylinder and I'm worried about it cracking. Either way enlarging the boyesen ports is gonna help some but it won't be a night and day different with that alone.
I have been getting HUGE power gains from just opening up the boysens and cleaning up the transfers. The bikes loose bottom end power, But for the most part the power delivery is simular to stock just alot more power there.
But porting i dont recomend on any 2 stroke unless you can see one thats done or you know exactly what your doing. There are water jackets in there and you hit one of those your buying a new jug. Its also very easy to really screw up 2 stroke motor by trying to port it and not know what your doing.
I have a CR500 cylinder and head ported by Duncan. Pulls like a S.O.B. on top if you or anyone is interested (for cheap).