Tips to fire up a fresh Z?

[GoodKarma]

Okay, trying to fire the Z up for the first time, and I have a few questions/concerns.

The fuel pump pulled the fuel up to the pump from the reserve hose fairly quick, but I had the petcock in the on position for a long time before realizing it. The fuel trickled towards the carb after turning to the reserve position, but doesn't really seem to be gushing anywhere's enough. I pulled the plug after the first few dozen kicks, just to save my energy. I later found a small leak that appears to be coming from the bowl on the fuel pump. Would this be enough to keep fuel from running to the carb?

Does the spark plug installed help build vacuum in the carb? It seems it might take forever to get the float bowl filled at this rate!

I filled the radiator, and it took about 3/4 of the gallon jug, and hasn't really moved much after kicking it over a few more dozen times. Does everything fill up just by pouring the fluid in? I wouldn't think so, but this is my first waterpumped bike, so it's all a guessing game for me! I later found that the head gasket is leaking a little. That's a good sign that water is flowing! I didn't put any silicone on before assembly, only because I didn't find anything in the manual. I wanted to, but also didn't know what it would hurt if some got into the water jackets. I'm running a YZ gasket that came with a kit I bought for the '83 YZ head and cylinder. This is a fiber gasket with a metal ring in the center. I have a Tri-Z gasket that is 3 metal disks, but couldn't find anything that noted top or bottom on it.

I'm not even trying to actually fire it yet, at least until I get the fuel filled on the carb side of the pump. I have the bottom fuel hose from the tank going to the bottom fitting on the pump. Any tips/tricks/suggestion/comments worthy of a new Z rebuilder? Tomorrow could be the big day, if I get these issues resolved. Uggggh, I hate the idea of pulling the head, because I imagine I will have to drain the radiators first, just because the hoses are so cramped in there!

[Bryan Raffa]

Okay, trying to fire the Z up for the first time, and I have a few questions/concerns.

The fuel pump pulled the fuel up to the pump from the reserve hose fairly quick, but I had the petcock in the on position for a long time before realizing it. The fuel trickled towards the carb after turning to the reserve position, but doesn't really seem to be gushing anywhere's enough. I pulled the plug after the first few dozen kicks, just to save my energy. I later found a small leak that appears to be coming from the bowl on the fuel pump. Would this be enough to keep fuel from running to the carb?

Does the spark plug installed help build vacuum in the carb? It seems it might take forever to get the float bowl filled at this rate!

I filled the radiator, and it took about 3/4 of the gallon jug, and hasn't really moved much after kicking it over a few more dozen times. Does everything fill up just by pouring the fluid in? I wouldn't think so, but this is my first waterpumped bike, so it's all a guessing game for me! I later found that the head gasket is leaking a little. That's a good sign that water is flowing! I didn't put any silicone on before assembly, only because I didn't find anything in the manual. I wanted to, but also didn't know what it would hurt if some got into the water jackets. I'm running a YZ gasket that came with a kit I bought for the '83 YZ head and cylinder. This is a fiber gasket with a metal ring in the center. I have a Tri-Z gasket that is 3 metal disks, but couldn't find anything that noted top or bottom on it.

I'm not even trying to actually fire it yet, at least until I get the fuel filled on the carb side of the pump. I have the bottom fuel hose from the tank going to the bottom fitting on the pump. Any tips/tricks/suggestion/comments worthy of a new Z rebuilder? Tomorrow could be the big day, if I get these issues resolved. Uggggh, I hate the idea of pulling the head, because I imagine I will have to drain the radiators first, just because the hoses are so cramped in there!

take a O ring for a garden hose and use that inplace of the stock o ring

do you have the stock Y fitting on it?

yes the spark plug in helps in delevering fuel

try torqueing to 20pnds and see if it stops leaking before you pull it.

fill the rads with as mutch as you can and have the cap off when it actually starts and the air bubbles will come out and fill it to the top after it drops
and have your over flow half full..

[GoodKarma]

You're quick!

I had an O-ring that I put in and seems to fit good, but it's a simple thing to take apart and look at one more time.

Good suggestion on the head, and sure saves having to pull everything apart. Is silicone used also, or not?

I am not using the Y connection on the fuel pump. Just line from the cylinder to the pump, and from the pump to the carb. I thought I read somewhere that this was okay, but maybe I missed the meaning of it.

[Bryan Raffa]

no silicone on the head.. if you have to use the metal Z gaskit...Look at it where the inside of the bore would be.. you will see a lip on one of the sides..its actually bigger hole than the bore,,, that side goes down!

I have never ran it direct to the carb..so im not quite shure on that..seemes to me if the pump was workin that it would pump to the carb..but also you got to rember that pump is constantly pumping and theres no return when the bowl is full.. so im not shure how that would work out for ya..what did you do with the return line to the tank plug it?

that garden hose o ring you can crank right down unlike the little black o ring, if you tighten thoes too tight they will leak

[GoodKarma]

The return line: the bike had the Y connector, but the return line was cut, and there was a wasp egg/nest in the tank fitting (didn't find that out until last week, got to rinse and drain the tank after I accidently pushed it into the tank! ) You have to remember that this bike was dead and sitting in someones back yard for 10 years before I got it!

That's the larger fitting on the top of the tank, correct? I figured it was just a vapor release, and didn't do much for the intake system. Maybe I should look at this closer and see if I can hook it all back up................................dammit! I do have the original Y connector, so that keeps me from being held up over the weekend.

The O-ring was a normal ring, so you might be right that it got smashed. I'll run to the hardware store in the morning! I might be able to fire this thing up and piss off the neighbors tomorrow! I wonder if I have to wear a helmet while driving/wheelies down residential streets in California?

[Bryan Raffa]

yes the large fitting on the top.. if you look at that fitting you will see that there is a small hole in it to let the right amount back to the tank.. makes me wonder why the hell they needed such a large hose?

[chris200x]

Mike, do you have that plastic T connector? I was told not to use one from the hardware store because of the top hole being smaller like raffaman mentioned. You can see what I mean in the pics. I have a an extra I can send along with the oil cap if ya need it.

The last pic is where thehose at top of the t connects to on the tank.

[GoodKarma]

Okay, I have the T connector, and will double check that it's not a generic hardware store part, but it's what came with the bike. I don't have that other petcock (who the hell came up with that word???), but don't think it will matter............unless someone corrects me!

And the fact that this Y is to let fuel go BACK to the tank makes no dang sense! It's way up there on the top of the tank! If this pump makes that much pressure, then I am missing something!!!

[chris200x]

From what I've read on here and .org you dont really need that front petcock. but now would be a good time for someone to clarify that 100%. I had mine already so decided to just hook it up.

I don't see why you couldn't just run the line from the one end of the T staight to the carb... then have the return line up top. Now I'm getting confused!

[ATC-Eric]

The T connector is purely for the return of fuel. If your reving up, and you let off the gas, the pump is still going to be pumping. The T connector releases the EXTRA preasure that your pump is pushing back into the tank so that no seals, or gaskets are damaged from the preasure (to my knowledge).

For the record, when I rebuilt my Z, I had to kick it a good 30 times to fire. As a matter of fact, when it finnally fired, I was so suprised I fell off the bike!!! I had been kicking it so long it startled me. It fired with AVENGENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Good luck!

[chris200x]

I'm glad goodkarma started this thread... saved me the trouble! LOL I too will be firing my newly rebuild tri z up this weekend. So what's the trick.. choke on/off,,, give it full throttle,, no throttle??? Just trying to save my leg here ya know?

[ATC-Eric]

Since the kick starter hits the foot peg without much effort, I put a thick towel on my right peg. This cuisens the blow a little bit, and doesent shock it as much with each stroke. Mine is already a bit bent, and its really hard to stop short when your kicking away; especially when your kicking it 20+ times.

I would suggest the choke, it will put more fuel there when it finally comes. Dont give it throttle, you will just risk flooding it. When it finally does start to get some gas, and kinda fires, you know the tecnique in feathering the throttle Im sure.


Just be patient, and dont give up! Those pumps are a pain in the rear!!!!!

[madmanwithmouse]

A trick ive seen corey do before is to get it in 4th or so and just rock back and forth for a min or so.

[Mosh]

You do not need the front petcock.They fall apart any way.Ditch it.By turning the primary petcock sideways when you store it,You will stop the fuel flow.
Instead of kicking on that thing for hours like Eric says,(and it sucks,been there and done that)I just prime the cylinder by dumping some of the premix gas down the plug hole.You will have to do that a few times,but I rather do that then kicking it forever.
The return line is needed to get rid of extra fuel pressure like Eric said.The pump is capable of more than the bike needs.
As for bashing the footpeg with the kicker,I take a peice of 3/8 fuel line and zip tie it to the front rail of the footpeg were the kicker hits it.It protects the peg from getting mashed.You have to replace it periodically but it saves the footpeg and does not really hinder traction for the peg.

[TimSr]

The tee connector is a must, and without it you would be pressurizing the fuel line and force fuel right on past the float needle. If the factory tee were not restricted the fuel would take the easiest path and run back into the tank instead of the carb first.

The on/off petcock can eliminated, and as Moshman said, turn the on/reserve one to the middle position to cut fuel flow off.

I use the same method as Moshman to eliminate foot peg bashing, split a small piece of hose, and zip tie it. I got the idea from Derrick.

You should be able to fill your float bowl enough to start it in a few kicks. It takes me a dozen kicks at best. The easiest way to force prime is to simply blow into the gas tank vent hose. If you have any doubts as to whether its delivering fuel, pop the line off the carb and watch it run out. Always use the choke when the motor is cold, even though you can flip it right off after it starts in warmer weather. Mine likes a little throttle when cold, but a lot of throttle when half warmed, and it doesnt care when its warmed up.