Registered User
New to the board
I thought I'd pop in here real quick.... Im about to rebuild my carb and have stripped it down to find that the thing was missing some pieces and the thing was so rusty as to be almost worthless, have cleaned everything up however...does anyone have a carb guide that is a bit more useful than the 83-85 shop manual?
this thing doesnt tell you much about how to tune a carb!
Noah M
1985 200X
Got The Holeshot
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
this is out of the Honda service manual: on the side of your carb there should be a stamp with letters and #'s(should be pd64a a or pd 64 b or c. if it is pd64a a the main jet is #122, if it is pd64a b or c main is #112. slow jet is #35 - for a, b, or c. jet needle - 2nd groove from top for a, 3rd groove for b or c. pilot screw initial - 2 turns out.
high altitude above 5000ft - main #115 for a, #108 for b or c. pilot screw 1/4 in from original position.
I have a rcm exhaust, uni filter, bored .02 over, still use air box lid and went 2 sizes up on the main and moved the needle clip 1 position and that has worked great for me.
the top section info came right out of my 86 Honda service manual pages 4-1 to 4-10.
Last edited by 200x350xtriz250; 06-19-2007 at 08:33 PM.
Power User
Catch me if you can
I have 2 86 200X's. One has a newer rebuild and it flys. The other is tired but still runs like a top. The better of the 2 blows the doors off of the tired one...
All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country
Power User
Roostin Away
So what would it cost to get a full rebuild? What all needs to be replaced? Poston sleeve and valves?
1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends
2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.
Power User
Catch me if you can
Any tired motor needs a new piston,rings etc and a bore job. Most 4 strokes need valves and if there noisy, the cam and rockers may be bad along with the cam journals in the head themselves. If it has that many hours then the timing chain and gears need to be changed also.
Sad to tell you that a cheap rebuild will cost you about 200$ and a more indepth rebuild another 300$ or more and thats if you do the work.....
The problem is that lots of people don't do it right, they buy 80% of the parts and reuse a worn or scored rocker arm shaft or decide the head cam journals are "OK". Not too far down the road it will be noisy and losing power again.
Do it once and do it right....
All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country
Just Too Addicted
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
Go buy or borrow a COMPRESSION TESTER. Once you know what your compression is you can go from there. Why go for a rebuild if it doesn't need one?
'85 Honda 250ES Big Red
'97 Polaris Sportsman 400 4x4 2-stroke
'04 EZGO TXT
Former trikes;
85 & 86 ATC 250es Big Reds, 200e, 185s, 200s, (2) '84 250r, Yamaha 175 2-stroke, ATC 70, (2) ATC 110, TriZinger 60
***GOD BLESS AMERICA AND OUR TROOPS***
Power User
Roostin Away
Thats would im going to do, I was just getting an idea of what WOULD need to be done if it is blown. I check all the local stores and am going to travel to the next town and see of napa or autozone will have one.
1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends
2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.
Power User
Got the holeshot
15/38 ? What about switchin to a 14t you'll gain on the top end for $16bucks. Big carbs, open air boxs, race cams, you have to be jetted corectly(pull the plug/ brown paper bag)... tire size and gearing play a larger role in how your motor will perform in drag racing. Large trail tires....slow the motor on the bottom, so you loose quickness. Which is a good thing in the mudd to put more usable power to the ground. You do gain topend...which depending on the drag may work against you. Having the fastest bike across flat plains won't get you too far in the woods. In the riding I do roll on power plays the biggest role. I need to loft the front wheel on demand at speed. I use 3rd gear as my sweet spot in the tranny....If I can come out of a turn and light the motor or blaze the trail and pull the front end. Thats where I put the gearing/tire size to motor output on feel. I do run a taller (6ply) tire because of rocks and deep ruts. Even the weight of a tire could effect speed. Have you checked the stop screw on you thumb yet?
Power User
Got the holeshot
Adjust the valves, clean the air filter(dont over oil), and rejet your carb.
Also make sure youre not running your chain too tight.
Did you get those compression numbers?
Power User
Roostin Away
Well a 15 tooth front sprocket will give you more top end speed than a 14 tooth, and 15 is the biggest front sprocket a 200x can fit. Big trail tires will also give you more top speed. I cant pull 22s in 6th gear without bogging some. I dont have a thumb throttle, i have a motion pro twist. Im going to get a comression gauge today. Well see how it comes out.
1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends
2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
my 85 would smoke my dads 86 no problem. ripping thru all the gears as well. i have always thought the 83-85 version was faster the the 86-87, even with the extra gear. just my opinion though.
1985 KXT 250 Tecate - kx cylinder, kx ignition, bassani headpipe, answer silencer, v-force reeds, 38mm airstyker carb, +2 franks swinger, raptor rear shock.
1996 YSF240 Blaster - maxxed out!!!
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "HOLY SH-T, what a ride!"
Power User
Got the holeshot
no way a 83-85 could ever come close to my 87.
Are you sure your throttle is opening all the way?
Have you tried a stock size sprocket?
Power User
Roostin Away
What about gearing? That is also pretty important when it comes to top speed.
Power User
Roostin Away
i have a 15 tooth, that is bigger, meanings more speed. Bigger front, smaller back = speed. Smaller front, bigger rear = power. I have it setup for more speed. Stock sprocket is a 13 and its stupidly slow. But today I did notice that it is smoking blueish white, also black at open throttle. Yeah its denfinatly topped out, I had the thing going wide open for about a mile and it was WIDE OPEN. As far as it could possibly be opened. But they had to order the compression tester. It was $15.00 and will be here friday.
1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends
2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.
Power User
Got the holeshot
What i meant by making sure the trottle is opening all the way was looking in the carb to see if the slider is being pulled all the way up.
But if its starting to smoke youre prolly low on compression.
You are going to need an adapter for you size sparkplug hole.
Most testers only come with 14 and 16mm adapters and i think yours is 12mm.
Im not 100 percent sure on this but you prolly need to check.
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