What's the big deal with the domed nut and copper washer...

[Chemical442]

Was reading up last night on why my 110 still wont start and came across the fact that my Haynes Manual stresses that you remember where the domed nut and copper washer go back on the dowels that hold the top end together. However, in one paragraph they say to make sure it is on the lower right stud when looking at the head from the front, yet in a picture just one page later, they have the domed nut and copper washer on the TOP RIGHT of the same side.

What is the magical reason for the domed nut and copper washer? Could it possibly be the reason I cant get my 110 started, even after all new gaskets, timing checked and rechecked and checked again, and carb cleaned thoroughly? I would have just put the domed nut and copper washer back where I found them before the rebuild but the domed nut wasn't on either of the dowels mentioned in the Haynes Manual, and there never was a copper washer.

ANYONE?

[Howdy]

Was reading up last night on why my 110 still wont start and came across the fact that my Haynes Manual stresses that you remember where the domed nut and copper washer go back on the dowels that hold the top end together. However, in one paragraph they say to make sure it is on the lower right stud when looking at the head from the front, yet in a picture just one page later, they have the domed nut and copper washer on the TOP RIGHT of the same side.

What is the magical reason for the domed nut and copper washer? Could it possibly be the reason I cant get my 110 started, even after all new gaskets, timing checked and rechecked and checked again, and carb cleaned thoroughly? I would have just put the domed nut and copper washer back where I found them before the rebuild but the domed nut wasn't on either of the dowels mentioned in the Haynes Manual, and there never was a copper washer.

ANYONE?

I have seen the nut put on all the studs. If memory serves me correctly it goes on the right top as your looking at it.

Double check your timing and valve adjustments. Also when you took the CDI advance off did it come apart? If so did you get it back together correctly? I had a problem with one like that before.

Howdy

[Chemical442]

when you took the CDI advance off did it come apart? If so did you get it back together correctly? I had a problem with one like that before.

Howdy

Thanks for your reply, Howdy. On the valves, I didnt even mess with them. When I got it, the prev. owner said it ran last summer but developed a head gasket leak. So I just regasketed the top end. Mine is a 79 so it was the ATU/points crap. I wish it was CDI. LOL I put the stator plate back on aligned with stock markings and everything. I have a great blue spark, and like i said, i have the stator possitioned perfectly. I have even fiddled with advancing and backing off the stator clockwise and counter clockwise but my wrists get so sore from pull starting it, i just give up. It's funny how sometimes it will pull start like butter (recoil, not pulled by a tractor) and other times it rips the damn recoil out of my hands so hard, i have blisters and it fatigues my wrist muscles. Could this mean the rig is firing before the cylinder hits TDC and is pushing the cylinder back down instead of allowing it to make a full crank revolution?

I'm stumped.

[Howdy]

Could this mean the rig is firing before the cylinder hits TDC and is pushing the cylinder back down instead of allowing it to make a full crank revolution?

I'm stumped.

Yes it could be. I use a test light and a battery charger to set the points myself. I un plug the points wire and connect it to the test light. Then on the other end of the test light I hook the + clip of the battery charger. Take the Negative and clip it to the motor some where to get a good ground.

Once that is set up the test light should be on. turn the flywheel over by hand until the light goes off. The "F" mark on the flywheel should right on with the mark on the case. If not then you need to adjust the points until the light just turns off when the flywheel marks line up correctly. I learned this from grandpa 25 years ago and it has never failed me yet.

Howdy

[FullBore]

The domed nut and copper washer goes on the oil feed Stud, this is bottom right, this is to stop any oil leaks, and it won't interfear with teh running of the engine, if the copper washer is leaking try annealing it, get it red hot and let it cool, then tighten.

Nat

[plkmonster2]

yeah, it shouldn't afect the engine not running.....make sure the stator wires are not grounded, and make sure that you reconnected them correctly...do you have spark?

[Chemical442]

yeah, it shouldn't afect the engine not running.....make sure the stator wires are not grounded, and make sure that you reconnected them correctly...do you have spark?

Yeah, see thats why i am so perplexed. Spark is strong and blue. I'm going to do what Howdy said i guess. Rig up a light tester. Before that though, i may try getting pulled around just incase it's being a little cold and tempermental.

Talk about frustration....

[kilabeez0]

Hey chemical, I dont know how much of a tear down you did, but when I put mine back together, for some reason it would only start if the headlights were switched on and I couldn't figure out why. Then I saw the sparks coming from the ground wire I forgot to attach as it bumped against the frame. It's the gound wire on the right side near the back. I dunno maybe something u want to check.