Does anyone have any pictures/instructions with diagrams on how to adjust the rear disc brake of a 1984 250r?
I have the manual but it shows standard brakes for the rear.
It does however show a disc brake for the front.
Is it similar?
Thanks
Does anyone have any pictures/instructions with diagrams on how to adjust the rear disc brake of a 1984 250r?
I have the manual but it shows standard brakes for the rear.
It does however show a disc brake for the front.
Is it similar?
Thanks
Is there anyone that could help?
what are you trying to adjust?? the actuall disc? or the caliper? I didnt know they adjusted, wait no, they dont adjust? are you talking about the pads? is it not stoping? whats the deal?
brake adjustment = take caliper off, replace pads, remount caliper.
try looking at the end of the manual, also. It may have a supplement.
quiet people seem intelligent
If your rear brake is not working then it has an issue, it may need bleed out, slides may be stuck,or it may need rebuilt there is no adjustment for disc brakes. Waht is the exact problem.
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Thanks for the responses. When I apply the rear brake (right foot pedal) I don't have any pressure against the rotor(disc). Both tires rotate. There is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. When I use the bleeder valve fluid comes out when I apply the brake.
Nothing happens either when I set the parking brake.
There seems to be enough meat on the pads.
How much should be on the pads?
I did check the back of the manual and there was no updates.
So what I'm hearing is that, I need to get some new pads? that here may not be enough?
How can you tell?
How much is too much to pay for new pads?
Sounds like your master cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
ADMIRIN' BOOBS AND BLASTIN' NEWBS
How can I tell if it's the master cylinder?
I don't understand how it can be the cylinder if it's pushing fluid out the bleeder valve.
Is it hard to rebuilt it?
Is it better to replace it?
Thanks so much for your help!
there not hard to rebuild, most likely the slides on the caliper are frozen, my 85 250R was like that, you will have to take the caliper off and apart, clean every peice put alittle grease on parts reassemlbe and stop like a madman!
the master cylinder will still push fluid if the bleeder valve is open because the fluid will take the path of least resistance. if the bleeder is closed and the piston and seals are worn in the master cylinder then the fluid will leak by them. pull off the little rubber boot on the bottom and check for any weepage. if the sliders in the caliper are frozen, then only one brake pad will be worn and usually unevenly. also your caliper piston will be slightly distended. you could also check for weepage around the caliper piston.
ADMIRIN' BOOBS AND BLASTIN' NEWBS
my money is on a seized piston ( caliper) or master cly
80s......185 atc, Yamaha tri-moto 200, 85 200x with tons of work
90s......89 Suzuki quad racer 250 (raced 250 A class for 6 years, late 90s.. custom framed 250x with long travel shocks and a built 350x motor.... built Honda 110
00s...... chomeoly framed 350 RX with all the goodies (thanks to my bro)
2012.....Replaced the 350x motor for a 444cc YZ426
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Buy a set of Pad's , Rebuild the Master Cylinder , and Rebuild the Rear Caliper ....
Bleed Brakes ....
Your All Set Now
put your face down there and watch the pads and hit the lever with your hand. you should see both pads move. I would not rebuild or replace anything until you know what needs replaced..
brakes are pretty easy to figure out - you get the hang of it. keep us posted on your progress
quiet people seem intelligent
I had a mechanic with atv experience look at it. He said with what I stated here, you cannot tell unless I tearing down the mater cylinder.
I sounds like the place to start?