Scrambler 400 questions

[freewheel3]

Hi, just bought a 2002 Scrambler 400 4x4 and have a few questions. (Service manual is on the way)
1. Installed new pads front and rear and now the left front wheel drags badly and the rotor is hot after a 5 min ride. Why?
2. Overfilled the engine a bit with 10w30 and shortly afterwards noticed oil leaking throughout the frame, would a slight overfill cause this? Like maybe a vent line connected to the frame or something?
3. What is the correct Polaris oil for the front Diff? Is it the Premium Demand Drive Fluid or the Angle Drive Fluid or something else?
Thanks in advance

[storm_impulse]

i cant answer the other questions but when u did the brakes, did u remember to compress the caliper piston in before installing the pads? if u dont do this sometimes the caliper will stay decompressed out and when u install the new pads and put everything back together the brake will stay kinda locked cause the caliper piston did not adjust itself to the according distance between the rotor and the pads causing thus to stay clamped to the rotor where drag and friction sets in wearing out the new pads. also if u continue to ride it like this the caliper may get hot enough to where the piston in the caliper freezes itself. this happened to my old warrior i had.

[freewheel3]

Yes, I had to compress it a bit to get the caliper back onto the rotor. Should I have compressed it more?

[storm_impulse]

Yes, I had to compress it a bit to get the caliper back onto the rotor. Should I have compressed it more?

yes u should have compressed it all the way in. once u compress it all the way in the brake line and master cyclinder would have build up enough pressure to adjust the pads to the caliper. when u compressed it in alil u might have caused a vapor lock situation in the caliper meaning the caliper and the master cylinder had pressure going against eachother causing the brake to constantly stay enguaged
at the caliper. what i would do is take the wheel off, take the caliper off and remove the pads, then take the master cylinder cover off and slowly and evenly compress the caliper back in. caution fluid might squirt out of the fluid reservoir
because of the built up pressure in the caliper. after u do that check and make sure u still have the same amount of fluid. put everything back together besides putting the wheel on. spin the rotor and see if u feel resistence. u shouldnt. everything should roll free and u should have good touchy brakes

BTW: once u get everything back together besides putting the wheel on, pump the brakes to regain the required pressure to enguage the brakes.

[freewheel3]

Ok Storm, thanks for the info. I thought that it would find a happy medium on its own after using the brakes afew times. I'll rip into it in the morning.

[freewheel3]

OK, the brakes are fine now, but does anyone have any input for the other questions?

[MTS]

02. should have the outer hillard clutch hubs, if so just angle drive polaris oil, if its the centrilized hillards then it takes hub oil, adjust the Allen keys on the brake calipers, in till you cant spin the disc, then out 1 1/5 turn, shoulda rang me up i could get the whole manual copied for ya, im over at cycleworks Just hollaaar

[TravEX]

On the oil question, yes if it is overfilled it will spit it out the vent tube. The vent tube is located on the left side of the frame under the seat to the left of the airbox. The hose is poked down in the frame, and when it spits it out, it runs down the frame tubes and all over the clutch cover, right?! hehe MESSY! I think it should only call for 14 oz of oil, and I would use Polaris Gear Oil for their trannies. In all of the Polaris's we own (4), I use Polaris lubes in the trannnies, hubs,diffs, and pre-mix. The only time I differ is I use conventional motor oil in the crankcases. The lubes are HIGH, but worth it in the long run, I found out the hard way (almost), I ran plain gear oil in the front diff of my ATP, and it screwed up the AWD. Thankfully no permanent damage, just drained and filled with the $$$ stuff.

I had a 400 2x4, loved it, miss it. My friend bought it from me and put the AAEN top end pipe kit on it, OMG what a difference. I can not imagine that kit on a 4x4, MUDDER SUPREME!!!!

On the hubs, remove the allen bolts to drain the fluid (turn the hub down), turn it up and put enough ATF in it so that it is level with the threads at the 9 or 3 o'clock position, and put the allen bolt back it, your done, easy 10 minutes. I would do it every 6 monthes or so, so it stays clean.

Sorry for the novel,

Travis