Out Of Ideas

[road rage]

I recently picked up 6, 3-wheelers..4 atc 70s, a 110 and a 125m. got a super sweet deal on these machines..they had been sitting for a long time..blah blah blah..cleaned the carbs changed oil new plugs..got all of them running..all run very good with the exception of the 125m..i can get it to run, idles fine..for a few minutes ,but it bogs and dies when you give it any throttle..sometimes it will rev but it cuts outand dies every time.never backfires ..it gets worse the more youtry and run it..ive cleaned the carb..new plug .new gas..air filter is brand new..no difference with or without the filter..has plenty of gas in the bowl but is starving, all intake gaskets are good,not sucking air..i know it cant be anything major..this trike is mint noone has had there hands in it as far as i can tell..if anyone has any ideas plz shoot them this way..my kids wanna go riding

[84honda200s]

try a carb rebuild kit. i know you said you cleaned them (im not doubting your work) but sometimes cleaning them just isnt enough. the jets can get so clogged up they wont clean up all the way.

[RedRider_AK]

has plenty of gas in the bowl but is starving, all intake gaskets are good,not sucking air..i know it cant be anything major..this trike is mint noone has had there hands in it as far as i can tell..if anyone has any ideas plz shoot them this way..my kids wanna go riding

How do you know that it's starving, and not flooding out? It might have some crap on the needle/seat, or the needle/seat are worn, and it's just overfilling and not letting it clear out. Take a look at the plug when it dies and tell us the result. I remember I had a 125 and the carb had a bad float pivot, the float would stick at full open and basically the engine wouldn't run at all, or it would start and then instantly die.

[road rage]

thanx for the advice i really appreciate it...i have already put a carb kit in it tho

[Yamahauler]

unscrew the petcock from the tank and blow it out, they get clogged up with rust and dirt. That may be your problem

[road rage]

the petcock is on the carb..initially when i cleaned the carb there is a filter in the bottom of the petcock that was full of trash. when i found that, i was sure it was my problem but no change after i cleaned it

[hondahaulic]

it could be as simple as the gas cap if your lucky. the caps are supposed to vent and if they dont vent, they can cause a vaccum in the tank not letting any gas come out. All you have to do is try running it with the gas cap off.

[road rage]

ok if i did this right you should see a pic of the plug,although it isnt very clear.it is brownish in color and was dry when i pulled it out, also i tried to run it without the gas cap..no change

[RedRider_AK]

Pull the carb off the 110 and bolt it onto the 125 manifold. The carbs should be identical, and it will at least tell you if it's a carb problem or something else.

[road rage]

ok heres the pics sorry

[TeamGeek6]

ok if i did this right you should see a pic of the plug,although it isnt very clear.it is brownish in color and was dry when i pulled it out, also i tried to run it without the gas cap..no change

Brown is too rich. Not extremely, but it only takes a tiny bit of fouling to ruin a spark plug. NEVER run a plug thats brown or black, especially for testing and tuning.

An engine needs 3 things to run:

1.) compression
2.) air/fuel
3.) spark

Which one havent you addressed?

[Vealmonkey]

Brown is too rich? Are you sure about that? I don't want my plugs white I can tell you that. And if your nitpicking between brown and tan, come on. As long as the plug is not black and sooty or black and wet I'm pretty happy with a yard beater like that. If you were racing the bike that would be different, but I wouldn't really complain for brown, better a tad rich than a tad lean.

[edog]

!!!!!!Welcome to the board!!!!!!


!!!!!!!!!!!!We need more pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[TeamGeek6]

Brown is too rich? Are you sure about that? I don't want my plugs white I can tell you that. And if your nitpicking between brown and tan, come on. .

Yep, dead sure. Been there, done that. The "5" plug in my R comes out snow white except for a faint orange-tan section from the unleaded fuel deposits. The engine runs so cold I had to put a thermostat in it. The pipe sits at 180*F on idle.

That brown-tan thing means HORSEPOWER. until you hit that region and really learn to tune, there aint no making big horsepower. That little bit of brown gives the spark somewhere to go except through the fuel. Its called "misfire."

Give up your ancient ways and learn how to tune and read spark plugs. Dont take my word for it, learn from the top fuel world. That "little bit of brown you dont care about" means win or lose, run or explode to them:

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...ark-plugs.html

"Normally aspirated cars should have a light gray or tan hydrocarbon ring or as some call it a "fuel ring" all the way up inside around the third area closest to the point where the porcelain is attached to the metal jacket of the plug. The actual color may depend on type of fuel you use. This fuel ring should appear like a light shadow.

Normally the white area of the porcelain has a chalky appearance. If you see the porcelain take on a shine then it is time to change the plugs because the glass that is in the porcelain has been melted and has glazed the surface. If the car has been running rich (due to lots of idling or incorrect fuel mixture) then it is possible to glaze the plugs and short them out during a run because of the sudden heating of the plug with the soot on the porcelain."

[Erics350x]

Yep, dead sure. Been there, done that. The "5" plug in my R comes out snow white except for a faint orange-tan section from the unleaded fuel deposits. The engine runs so cold I had to put a thermostat in it. The pipe sits at 180*F on idle.

That brown-tan thing means HORSEPOWER. until you hit that region and really learn to tune, there aint no making big horsepower. That little bit of brown gives the spark somewhere to go except through the fuel. Its called "misfire."

Give up your ancient ways and learn how to tune and read spark plugs. Dont take my word for it, learn from the top fuel world. That "little bit of brown you dont care about" means win or lose, run or explode to them:

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...ark-plugs.html

"Normally aspirated cars should have a light gray or tan hydrocarbon ring or as some call it a "fuel ring" all the way up inside around the third area closest to the point where the porcelain is attached to the metal jacket of the plug. The actual color may depend on type of fuel you use. This fuel ring should appear like a light shadow.

Normally the white area of the porcelain has a chalky appearance. If you see the porcelain take on a shine then it is time to change the plugs because the glass that is in the porcelain has been melted and has glazed the surface. If the car has been running rich (due to lots of idling or incorrect fuel mixture) then it is possible to glaze the plugs and short them out during a run because of the sudden heating of the plug with the soot on the porcelain."

Big difference in two and four strokes, fours aren't that sensitive. If the plug isn't wet its not causing this.

Try running it with the gas gap off.

Use a small piece of wire to run though you jets to clean them.