Billet 250R clutch baskets question

**Billy Golightly** · 02-05-2008, 11:53 AM

Doug I dont know if thats the right part # or not but I know I just bought mine new probably a year ago and it was available then?

**Dammit!** · 02-05-2008, 11:31 PM

Service Honda says Unavailable on that part number. I might not be looking at the right one though (kinda hard to tell on the parts fische). I'll call them tomorrow but if anybody can verify the part number that would be real helpful.

**250rRoostmaster** · 03-18-2015, 02:19 PM

Bringing back an oldie. So i replaced my clutch basket with a new/used hinson basket. I bought it used off ebay so it came with no instructions. I installed and it seemly turned over easily as usual without any binding. Cool, i put it all back together. So i went out to ride 2 weeks ago, got 5 mins in and the piston gave way. Fast forward to now. I decided to check the clutch basket since it's the only thing that has changed and since the previous ride. I drain the oil and notice metal!! WTF? Took side cover off and discover this apparently well known problem that's now new to me.. So my question here is, can i get away with just flushing out the trans area real well or should i split the cases? I know the BEST way is to split them but i literally only rode maybe 5 mins before the top end popped so the aluminum shavings didn't have a lot of time to move around and most of the shavings looked to have stayed in the clutch cover side. All the bearings have about 25 hours on them and are all OEM. Looking for some advise from people that have went through this before. I just read a thread the motor builder forgot the bevel the gear when he did work, and they just suggested to flush and drain the oil 4 or 5 times within a short amount of time and your good to go. What do you guys think?

**Billy Golightly** · 03-18-2015, 02:36 PM

You have a few needle bearings in the cases but most are ball bearings. You can probably get away with just flushing good. The bright side is that its aluminum that peeled off and net steel, so the bearings are a bit more tolerant of that.

**250rRoostmaster** · 03-18-2015, 02:49 PM

That's my train of thought right now too. The aluminum bits are tiny and would most likely just get passed through the ball bearings. Thanks for your input Billy.

**yaegerb** · 03-18-2015, 03:22 PM

Originally Posted by 250rRoostmaster

Bringing back an oldie. So i replaced my clutch basket with a new/used hinson basket. I bought it used off ebay so it came with no instructions. I installed and it seemly turned over easily as usual without any binding. Cool, i put it all back together. So i went out to ride 2 weeks ago, got 5 mins in and the piston gave way. Fast forward to now. I decided to check the clutch basket since it's the only thing that has changed and since the previous ride. I drain the oil and notice metal!! WTF? Took side cover off and discover this apparently well known problem that's now new to me.. So my question here is, can i get away with just flushing out the trans area real well or should i split the cases? I know the BEST way is to split them but i literally only rode maybe 5 mins before the top end popped so the aluminum shavings didn't have a lot of time to move around and most of the shavings looked to have stayed in the clutch cover side. All the bearings have about 25 hours on them and are all OEM. Looking for some advise from people that have went through this before. I just read a thread the motor builder forgot the bevel the gear when he did work, and they just suggested to flush and drain the oil 4 or 5 times within a short amount of time and your good to go. What do you guys think?

Agree with Billy, I would flush really well to start, then after 2-3 rides I would flush again and see if flakes are still present. The last thing you want is to ruin a new set of bearings.

Also, I WOULD bevel that gear. Any reputable machine shop can do that for you.

**250rRoostmaster** · 03-18-2015, 03:46 PM

Originally Posted by yaegerb

Agree with Billy, I would flush really well to start, then after 2-3 rides I would flush again and see if flakes are still present. The last thing you want is to ruin a new set of bearings.

Also, I WOULD bevel that gear. Any reputable machine shop can do that for you.

I plan on beveling it, i would have done so in the first place if i had the damn instructions haha. Crazy thing is that it spun freely when i first put it in, but under a load i guess it flexes and makes contact with the primary. Learn something new everyday.

**250rRoostmaster** · 03-19-2015, 10:27 AM

Looks like i have to split the cases anyways... I was flushing and noticed the residual oil leaking from the crank seal area when i flipped the motor on it's side. So i took off the stator cover and notice a small amount of oil in there as well. started playing with the crank and i can feel that the bearings are most likely loose in the cases.. Time for new bearings and seals..

**yaegerb** · 03-19-2015, 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by 250rRoostmaster

Looks like i have to split the cases anyways... I was flushing and noticed the residual oil leaking from the crank seal area when i flipped the motor on it's side. So i took off the stator cover and notice a small amount of oil in there as well. started playing with the crank and i can feel that the bearings are most likely loose in the cases.. Time for new bearings and seals..

Well that sucks....how many hours on those since the LED work?...just curious

**250rRoostmaster** · 03-19-2015, 11:44 AM

25 hours roughly since complete top and bottom rebuild with all new OEM bearings and seals. I'm thinking that the flexing of the basket putting pressure on the main bearings could have caused this. Not quite sure yet. I know the seals are bad. The bearings seem smooth but you can feel them moving a bit up and down.. Not the greatest of discoveries...

**250rRoostmaster** · 03-20-2015, 08:33 AM

25 hour OEM Main bearings and seals are shot, the pressure on the primary made the seals go bad in a hurry.

**Ed200x** · 03-20-2015, 10:03 AM

Any time you find metal particles in your gearcase on a 2-stroke, blown piston or not, your crankcase seals (at the VERY least!) can be written off. Aluminum is a soft metal, but your bearings failed because the balls were jamming on the races, in effect the bearings instead of being two seperate races seperated by steel balls, became a solid steel disc(s) intermitantly as the engine turned. Sure the particles were small they were ground down in what effectively was a ball mill for crushing ore! The that fine (and sharp) aluminum dust cut your mainnseals . Next time you drill a hole in aluminum pick up one of the chips. They are sharp as heck. I realize that money is tight but fella's, your talking about a 250cc (or larger) high revving, highly stressed race engine! You see anything but oil and maybe a bit of dirt or carbonized oil in your gearcase. Tear it down and clean it out!!!! It's more expensive in time and money to keep replacing seals time after time because you thought to save a dollar or two. There is NO sure way to "Flush" all the particles out by filling and draining oil or anything else a bunch of times. Oil ain't cheap either!

**250rRoostmaster** · 03-20-2015, 10:31 AM

I've never had this happen before but I'm going to agree with you 100% on this after what i found once i split the cases last night. I flushed and flushed and flushed with diesel then seen that i had to split the cases anyways since i saw the seals where bad. Boy am i glad i did because the amount of aluminum flakes that where still present was unbelievable. It was everywhere and in every single bearing in a bad way. I cleaned all the bearings and they are good now but there is no way that flushing would ever get that out. I'd say i only got about 60% out after about 3 gallons of diesel flushing. SPLIT YOUR CASES IF THIS HAPPENS. Your bearings and seals will thank you.

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