the solution for your exhuast is to put a tube coming out of it at a 90 degree angle... this is seen on all of the polaris utilities. it's possible for water to get in, but you'd have to start your trike with the muffler under the water.
the solution for your exhuast is to put a tube coming out of it at a 90 degree angle... this is seen on all of the polaris utilities. it's possible for water to get in, but you'd have to start your trike with the muffler under the water.
Name brand..... how did you seal the hole in the airbox? and when your muffler does go under water you just have to give it gas so it doesnt suck water in correct?
what kind of material would you use for the muffler tube?
All the muffler snorkels I've seen are simply thin-wall steel pipe, welded onto the stock muffler. Usually, there's a support bracket on the rack to keep it from breaking off.
I'm back in the USSR...
that doesnt sound to reliable.... especially if my trike were to roll
I have seen that downward 90 on the Polaris'. I'm thinking about trying that since I don't want an exhuast stack coming up over the rear rack. Napa, Schucks or any good exhuast shop should have exhuast pieces in stock.
If you stay on the throttle you wont get water into the exhuast. But there are those times when you may be on a softer bottom (mud, silt, clay, bog, muskeg...) when giving the machine too much gas will just spin the tires in and get you stuck. It's those times when I have to idle or ease my way through is when the exhaust will fill with water and kill the engine. I have to be under for a few minutes though, but there are places and times of year here where that is the case. I don't think the water really sucks in; more drains in. I'm hoping a downward 90 like Goat suggested will work. Water flows pretty easily sideways, but not upward.
I plugged the drain in my airbox with a little rubber plug I had laying around. I have no idea what it may have been from but it fit the hole just right and is snug enough to stay on it's own. It has a little flange in the top to keep it from sliding through. Make sure your airbox has no cracks and that the lid seals very well too. My vent lines aren't even glued or sealed; I just drilled a smaller hole that holds each one tightly.
I've almost rolled my SX in the water. That's only happened in faster water or if I was screwing around. Just keep practicing your water crossings and you'll figure out how to take the machine through. So what if you roll! Check the fluids for water, make sure the rest of the machine is OK and keep on riding! The SX is a tough machine.
15T3FN1 CE/FI/SI with a Class A; Some of you might know what that means.
1986 ATC 200x, Gathering parts for a 200sx build.
1985 ATC 250SX 25" tires, extended swingarm, snorkel and other mods for Alaska adventures.
1985 ATC 250SX, Big plans for this one...
1985 ATC 250ES, Big Red
1984 ATC 125M's, 1.5 of 'em
1983 ATC 110, BLUE!
1974 ATC 70 Pink?
would 1.5 in abs pipe be better than 2 in pvc or does it not really matter? and which is more durable?
yeah that downtube shouldn't let water in. water doesn't flow up....at least not easily at all.
does snorkeling your trike affect toher riding in any ways? i still want to be able to ride the trails and everything as i could before a snorkel
gus1316 - You did see that my snorkle is totally and easily removable didn't you?It takes about 30 seconds to put on or take off. I don't even have to pull my rear fenders to do it. I only have it on for water crossings, or if it's a short distance to the next crossing. It really doesn't get in my way while riding and doesn't come close to hitting the handlebars at full turn.
All I do to attach the snorkel is pull the rubber intake tube from the airbox and slide the snorkel in. When the snorkel is off, I put the rubber intake tube back on and it is exactly back to the factory setup. The only tool I need is a phillips screwdriver for the clamp on that tube. I keep that screwdriver in my saddlebag with the curvy piece of the snorkel.
I used 1.5 abs. That's about as big as the factory snorkel through the frame is anyway. About as long too. I've never noticed a performance difference with it on. ABS is black so it matches; that's about all I cared about. I'm trying to figure out a snorkel for my friends Fatcat. For that I'll use PVC, only cause it matches the white plastics on the bike. If it breaks, get a new piece; ABS is cheap.
15T3FN1 CE/FI/SI with a Class A; Some of you might know what that means.
1986 ATC 200x, Gathering parts for a 200sx build.
1985 ATC 250SX 25" tires, extended swingarm, snorkel and other mods for Alaska adventures.
1985 ATC 250SX, Big plans for this one...
1985 ATC 250ES, Big Red
1984 ATC 125M's, 1.5 of 'em
1983 ATC 110, BLUE!
1974 ATC 70 Pink?
well let me know when you get your exhaust snorkel on your 250sx up and running...... and post some pics please![]()
You can actually make a snorkel the same way HMF does it, so that it's removable like a spark arrester using a few bolts. Weld on a few blind nuts to your stock muffler, fab up a snorkel with a flange and holes in the corresponding location... Then you can remove it for normal riding and stick it on in 30 seconds when you decide to cross a super deep pond.
Thanks id never thought of that.... my trike is currently at the cabin and i wont get to it for another month or two so ill have to wait to work on it.... so if anyone does any snorkeling soon please post pictures and what you used and how you did it....
thanks
I tried to snokel my 125M trike saturday with 2 in pvc. From the carb stright out the back and up with air filter on top, but when I ran it it would only run about 1/2 throttle without bogging down. Let me know what you guys think? Too big of pvc? Too much air or not enough?