Just Too Addicted
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
I tightened the bolt's too far on the axle cradle, and ended up torking off 3 of the 4 nuts/stud. Is it possible to drill them out and put new studs in? Or should i say screw it, and get a new pair(85/86)?
Does anyone have nice pair they want to part with?
1985 Honda 250R
1986 Yamaha Tri-z
1984 Honda 200s
1983 Honda 200x
1982 Honda 200
Power User
Roostin Away
I Have The Right Lower Tube. 25 Bux Shipped. Studs Are Perfect. Decent Overall Shape.
3-85 ATC 70
86 ATC 250R
86 WETBIKE
01 KX250
2011 KAW SXR800- 35YR EDITION
05 HERITAGE/SPRINGER/SOFTTAIL
HEY! I don't really like your attitude right now!
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
When that happened to me, I simply removed all 4 of the original studs and replaced them with SS bolts. Works just fine.
Official Wellsville soil tester! With pics and a $3000 medical bill to prove it...
1986 TRX250R
ESR 310~trail ported w/ torque exhaust flange~36mm Keihin carb~v-Force3 reeds~Pro Circuit Exhaust~custom 16oz flywheel weight~2006 YFZ front shocks~adjustable rear dogbone~fully functional rear brake light~Durablue +4 axle
Former Ride 1986 ATC250R
Power User
Roostin Away
I had the same problem, I put small bolts in and it seems studs are better. The bolts came loose and stripped the 4 holes out. I just went out and got a whole new lower tube. Im sure you could drill them and put new studs in or a heli coil, but its much easier to just find a new fork tube and not worry about it.
1986 200x- old school D.I.D wheels, Gold D.I.D X-Ring Chain, Rad MFG. Carrier, PRM Grab Bar, Pro Circuit T-4 custom, Maier plastics, 85x forks, 18x10.5x8 kenda klaw mxr's on itp steels, the money pit never ends
2004 YFZ450 - CP 12.5:1, cam mod , gibson nerfs, hmf pipe, protaper bars + risers, dg bumper/skids, holeshot gncc's on itps, cycra handguard and more stuff to come.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
I did that once myself, but only to one.....
Sometimes you get lucky by drilling and using an easy-out and some heat.
If you have enough to grab onto with vise-grips, throw some heat to it, and it will likely come out.
Otherwise, I have had luck by drilling a large enough hole in the bolt that just leaves a little more than the threads. This relieves it some, and allows it to be removed easier. another trick I sometimes use to loosen stuck bolts is this........
If possible, and in your case it is, lay the part so that gravity will allow liquid to flow into the bolt hole. Then heat it up good and hot, and allow it to cool just a bit. At that point, rub some parrafin wax around the hole and let it melt in real good. The wax will take up some of the space when the part cools, and usually allow you to turn the bolt. It stinks like hell, but it does work. If you do get them out, replace them with studs. Usually, the hardware store has them, or an automotive store. Don't get bent at the dealer for them.
Last edited by InPiEcEs; 03-13-2008 at 09:30 PM.
One piece at a time. Status: The Beast is Done..06-23-07
Back in the saddle again
Currently owned rides:
My sleds, and.........
1995 CBR600F3
1976 Kaw 400 triple-smoker......SOLD
1986 250R...owned since 1990
06-23-07........the R is finally done!!!
ESR pipe, Aktive reeds/CR cage, 38mm PWK, +4 Dominator
mild clean-up porting, an open K&N, CR and YZ calipers.......among other things
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