tecate guys have a idea on carb boot for 84/85 tecate

**kasuki** · 03-18-2008, 06:18 PM

look i have thinking for a few days on different opps for the carb boot problem.this what im thinking one i could machine a intake out of alum and join the carb by using a rubber joint.just like the rad valves by boyseen this would be a little bit of work but it can be done.i am also thinking what if i make a adapter plate of some kind similiar to a reed spacer.but i would make different bolt patteren in the plate to accept maybe a honda 250r carb boot,or after market banshee for bigger carbs.what im looking for your input what do you think what would be a great donner boot. any bike for that matter but something close.maybe im way of base but i think this could work.add in your input good or bad or different idea you have maybe we can come up with a good solution to this problem.i am also looking in to maching new chain slidders at work.

**DixiePlowboy** · 03-18-2008, 07:29 PM

Good thinking!

I have my intake boot at a local machine shop right now to do that very same thing.....to replicate it out of aluminum Rad Valve-style. I like the idea of an adapter to use more common intakes. You're onto something there.

**honda250sx** · 03-18-2008, 07:58 PM

Hey man what local machine shop do you work at? Just curious. Hell were practically neighbors and I am in the same business.

**Dirtcrasher** · 03-18-2008, 08:47 PM

Yes, lots of guys have the "rubber " intake" set in there minds..... I've thought plenty of times about a thin steel tubing intake welded to a plate at ANY angle you wish - piece of cake!! Then you just need a rubber clamp and look to the plumbing industry or a radiator HD hose to take care of that.

OEM is not always the ONLY solution!!

Great thinking!!

**DixiePlowboy** · 03-18-2008, 10:08 PM

Originally Posted by jeswinehart

Just something to keep in mind. For the stockers, there is hardly any distance between the jug and the carb. Most likely why Kawasaki went with the style they did. Any metal closer to the carb would most likely transfer engine/jug heat back to the carb and cause it vaporize/boil.
Now for those running air-filters only (no air box) ,,, who cares - you can plumb the carb several inches away with a rubber hose.
keep pursuing the thought, it is a great one.

john

That could be a concern, but a custom metal(aluminum) intake manifold shouldn't be anymore likely to suffer heat transfer issues than say a Rad Valve setup. The way I picture it is maybe a half inch of space between the custom intake spigot and the carb....all gap covered/sealed by rubber hose, but not actually metal to metal contact.

Even then, if that isn't enough, an insulating/phenolic spacer(like the old reed spacers) made of plastic or some other low heat conductivity material would be fairly simple to cut and drill to place between the custom manifold and the intake on the jug.

I remember putting such spacers on an '85 R and an '86 Z for an increase in performance. I've got the DG catalog here from 1992 that I ordered the spacer for the Z out of(along with reeds and exhaust in 1992), and at least that's what they were claiming.

**cr480r** · 03-18-2008, 10:54 PM

Originally Posted by jeswinehart

Just something to keep in mind. For the stockers, there is hardly any distance between the jug and the carb. Most likely why Kawasaki went with the style they did. Any metal closer to the carb would most likely transfer engine/jug heat back to the carb and cause it vaporize/boil.
Now for those running air-filters only (no air box) ,,, who cares - you can plumb the carb several inches away with a rubber hose.
keep pursuing the thought, it is a great one.

john

The closer you get the carb to the reeds the better throttle response will be... none of my 2-strokes ever run hot enough to boil the carb... I think thats more of an issue with automoble engines.. the rubber is only needed because of vibration on a 2-stroke. I would use a replacement boot for a rad valve and have a groove machined into the new intake tube before its welded up

**kasuki** · 03-19-2008, 10:04 PM

if you look at the back of the carb boot (stock rubber) do you think that the way it is cut out must be identical for the right air flow.or do you think im looking to much into it.also like said above there is not much room to work with for the tube lengh.i looked at a old boot i have today and the carb sits pretty deep into the boot.if i do make it out of alum you will not be able to run the stock air box not enough room.does anyone have any thought on the possibility on running a different boot all together. does any one run a kx 250 carb boot right now if so what years will work also post a pic of you set up.i am not going to rush into this i want to think some more on the best idea to try.keep posting you thoughts

**cr480r** · 03-20-2008, 10:46 AM

Originally Posted by kasuki

if you look at the back of the carb boot (stock rubber) do you think that the way it is cut out must be identical for the right air flow.or do you think im looking to much into it.also like said above there is not much room to work with for the tube lengh.i looked at a old boot i have today and the carb sits pretty deep into the boot.if i do make it out of alum you will not be able to run the stock air box not enough room.does anyone have any thought on the possibility on running a different boot all together. does any one run a kx 250 carb boot right now if so what years will work also post a pic of you set up.i am not going to rush into this i want to think some more on the best idea to try.keep posting you thoughts

If designed properly you should be able to get the carb back into the airbox... Even though you are limited on space to attach the carb, there are ways of dealing with it... using a boot from a rad valve should give you more room than just a regular hose and clamp would... although you will need a groove cut into you new intake tube before it is cut and welded into place... Swapping to a different carb can gain you some room too... Some mikunis are shorter than most others... The KX boot doesnt allow the carb to clear the frame on the 1st Gen tecates... I have one on mine, but the frame has been re-configured for clearance

**hadar** · 03-20-2008, 06:23 PM

I wonder how hard it would be to have them reproduced? I would still want a rubber one. I wish I knew someone that made repo boots.

**scooterroo** · 03-20-2008, 09:06 PM

i used plyer grip on my weather cracked rubber intake boot, and the stuff works awesome. just use an old paint brush you will never need again, paint on a nice thick first coat, let it dry, then repeat. seals them up super nice. the stuff is rubber basically, and cheap at any auto parts store.

**cr480r** · 03-23-2008, 03:55 AM

Originally Posted by scooterroo

i used plyer grip on my weather cracked rubber intake boot, and the stuff works awesome. just use an old paint brush you will never need again, paint on a nice thick first coat, let it dry, then repeat. seals them up super nice. the stuff is rubber basically, and cheap at any auto parts store.

Do you have any pictures? what kind of prep is required?

**kasuki** · 03-23-2008, 12:07 PM

did you just do the outside or did you do the hole thing.also what happens if gas gets on it does it hold up.

**joe_f7** · 05-03-2008, 10:18 AM

any update on the plyer grip coating fix?

**doobiedoo** · 09-02-2010, 09:26 PM

i got a 84 tecate 3 bored to a 71 mm and cant get the carb right bogs on low end

**jeswinehart** · 09-03-2010, 05:57 AM

David, there might be some information in this link that may be of help to you.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...Jetting-Theory

There has been some advancement in the area of the Tecate carb boot availability since this post started and they are available in a reproduction form, contact me if you need to replace yours.

john

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