Okay, so, as many of you know, i painted the plastics on my R. I didnt want to post the specifics on it in case it didnt hold up, but so far it is holding up outstandingly well. time to share.
1. Wash and dry plastics.
2. wipe down with Wax and Grease Remover, making sure to wipe dry. DO NOT LET IT DRY BY ITSELF, as this will defeat the purpose. repeat this process to be sure the surface is oil and wax free.
3. Sand the plastics with 80 grit paper until the entire surface getting painted is nasty rough. this gives the paint something to grip.
4. Ok, now we will coat the surface with Bulldog Adhesion Promoter. Coat the plastics twice to ensure good coverage.
5. Now, we will coat the plastics in transtar rose primer. for a front fender and rear fender on a 250R, it will take about 2 1/2 cans to do this step properly.
What we want to do is lay 2 heavy coats on and let dry. outside in the sun, this stuff dries to a sandable finish fast.
after it has dried, you will take 150 grit paper and a foam sanding block and sand the primer. Sand to make smooth, BUT if you start to see the adhesion promoter, DONT SAND that area any more.
Coat them again with the transtar primer and sand with 150 grit until the 80 grit sanding scratches are gone, and it is as smooth as you desire.
6. now you will coat the plastics again with the transtar primer. but this time, when it dries, lightly block it out with 360 grit paper until the whole surface has been sanded smooth. this will make the top-coat smooth as glass if done properly.
7. After all sanding with the 360 is done, you will now scuff the plastic surface with a RED (i believe it is a FINE) scuff pad. this helps to further smooth and ensure good top-coat adhesion.
8. Now that all sanding is done, use an air blower and thoroughly blow all the dust off the pieces being painted, from both the top and underside. this makes sure residual dust doesnt end up in the paint....after all, we DO NOT want a dirt-free paint job. (dirt's free, we didnt charge a dime!)
It is wise to use the Wax and Grease remover again to remove all dust and any possible oil that may have gotten onto the finish.
9. Now, wipe all surfaces with a Tack-Cloth. . dont press real hard with it or let it set on the surface too long, it will leave a sticky residue, making the paint job look crappy. just lightly and quickly wipe them down right before painting.
10. this step is all you. Paint with whatever you want.s, airbrush art, whatever. paint as you would anything else.
11. ok, for small items, such as headlight shrouds and such, i have found that just sanding with 360 grit and then using the scuffpad, then the adhesion promoter and then painting will provide adequate adhesion.
using the above method, if done properly, the finish will be as smooth as any show-car's, and will hold up quite well. best bet is to make up a rear fender brace to keep the rear "wings" from flapping. this will cause accelerated paint wear.
DONT powerwash the painted surface, it WILL blow paint off in due time.
when you start to get it chipped up, use superglue in the chipped areas to keep the edges of the paint from peeling away from the plastic. it works great!
This method holds up quite well, and has held up on my bike for over a year, and yes, it has a few chips and cracks, but i ride my machine quite a bit.
If, however building more of a "show bike" then this method is the ONLY way to go.
AND for you cheap-o people, KRYLON FUSION is your friend. this can be sprayed directly over the plastic, just make sure the plastic is CLEAN and oil/wax free. a little scuffpad action is also very good.
oops i never added pics of the finished product....
and here is the bike all together
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My rides, 1985 ATC 350X, With legit Lamborghini Countach paint,2003 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider,customised the way I like it!
1997 GMC Sierra is gone, primary mode of transportation, 2008 Toyota Yaris!
Originally Posted by honda_atc200es
Doing a process like I did would be infinitely better for a bike that sees mainly Dune use. 