took all my studs out of my case and cylinder. all came out fine except one in my cylinder and it snapped off. any tricks to getting it out? can i helicoil it?
took all my studs out of my case and cylinder. all came out fine except one in my cylinder and it snapped off. any tricks to getting it out? can i helicoil it?
1986 Kawasaki KXT 250 tecate
ported, FMF pipe, DG silencer, boysen stage II reeds, 39mm keihin PWK, T4 thumb throttle and front master
If any of the stud is sticking out you might be able to vise-grip it and remove it.
If it is below the surface, and your very good with a welder, you could weld just a small ball to the top of the stud. Keep welding balls (stacking) till you have enough to put a vise grip on. This has worked for me before on a 125m engine.
15T3FN1 CE/FI/SI with a Class A; Some of you might know what that means.
1986 ATC 200x, Gathering parts for a 200sx build.
1985 ATC 250SX 25" tires, extended swingarm, snorkel and other mods for Alaska adventures.
1985 ATC 250SX, Big plans for this one...
1985 ATC 250ES, Big Red
1984 ATC 125M's, 1.5 of 'em
1983 ATC 110, BLUE!
1974 ATC 70 Pink?
if its sticking out some tighten a nut on it and weld it from the top then you can turn it out with a wrench
nothing is sticking out
1986 Kawasaki KXT 250 tecate
ported, FMF pipe, DG silencer, boysen stage II reeds, 39mm keihin PWK, T4 thumb throttle and front master
Unless you have a clue. Take it to a machine shop and have it done. Otherwise you will be sorry after you trash it. IMO
just seeing if anyone has had some success with a helicoil. used them many times before just not with a snapped stud.
1986 Kawasaki KXT 250 tecate
ported, FMF pipe, DG silencer, boysen stage II reeds, 39mm keihin PWK, T4 thumb throttle and front master
Helicoils do work for some people. I prefer using time-serts. A little more involved to get them perfect, but they are the best solution to your problem.
never heard of them. i'll have to google it.
1986 Kawasaki KXT 250 tecate
ported, FMF pipe, DG silencer, boysen stage II reeds, 39mm keihin PWK, T4 thumb throttle and front master
sometimes you can set a nut on top of the broken off stud and then fill the inside of the nut with weld, welding it to the stud. the weld will only stick to the steel nut and stud, and not the aluminum cylinder. Make sure you wait for it to cool down so it contracts, and if your lucky it will back out with a wrench.
get a screw extractor, like 2-5 bucks at a hardware place
kind of worried about snapping off a screw extractor in the stud since the stud snapped off
1986 Kawasaki KXT 250 tecate
ported, FMF pipe, DG silencer, boysen stage II reeds, 39mm keihin PWK, T4 thumb throttle and front master
It you hit the broken stud with aand punch, it might loosen or release the binding presure of the stud in the aluminum. Then ...... You might also want to place a thick and large diameter washer over it so you can weld it better, then weld the nut on the inside and outside to the washer. Like hondahaulic says, let it contract. After the cylinder is back to room temp, then I ussaully heat up the aluminum with a torch(try not to heat the stud) around the stud and then try turning it. Aluminum will expand faster than steel, just dont melt the aluminum.
I used 3 heli-coils for the head studs of my LT with no issues... even with much higher compression than stock... But I would try to avoid them if possible... I would definately try to weld a nut onto the stud and work the stud loose... use some heat and some good penetrant... work the stud back and forth.... it may take awhile... it may require welding on multiple nuts..
get some left handed drill bits (sounds funny but im serious) and drill the stud. with those bits the drill runs in reverse and when you drill down so far it can sometimes grab the stud and back it out. works pretty good. soak it first with pb blaster.
I had this exact problem with two studs. Do yourself a favor and have a machine shop do it, I had a screw extractor break off in mine and my machine shop wouldn't touch it (hardened material) I ended up finding another machine shop that had a an ultrasonic vibrator that got it out, then they installed two Heli-coils and they installed all 6 brand new honda studs so it would be fresh and I havent had any problems.
OH and some machine shops will charge you a REALLY high hourly rate (mine was $85 an hour) until they get a broken stud and screw extractor out. They quoted me a minimum of 2-3 hours. In my case i would have bought a new cylinder
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Trikes I Own
1983 ATC300R (Stealthy)
1986 ATC250R (ESR310)Twin))
1986 ATC250R (Stocker)
1985 ATC200X (Racer X)
1985 ATC350X (Thumper)
1984 ALT50
1986 TRX250R (ESR310 PV)
1988 TRX250R
1997 Yamaha Banshee
2004 TRX450R