View Poll Results: Which Bore kit should I go with?!?!?

Voters
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  • 66mm Piston, 10.5:1 Compression

    22 84.62%
  • 66mm Piston, 12:1 Compression

    4 15.38%
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Thread: Need your opinion! 200x bore options...

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Grosse Tete, LA
    --
    3,440
    screw powroll...find a local shop.

    they are overcharging for that piston by far.

    find a local shop...the whole shebang, plus a gasket kit, will run you around 200 bucks...if that.

    local shop can get the piston, and do the boring for you. make sure you bring them the cylinder before they order piston.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Peru, IN
    --
    121
    I had to put a timing chain in my 84 200x and bored it and put a 12:1 in it while it was apart. I love it. Noticbly more power than it had before. I don't know where every body gets that it makes them unreliable, mine usualy start first or secod kick. And the race gas thing, I run E85. It's cheap, makes it run cooler and oesnt detonate. Maybe I just got lucky, but mine runs great with that combo of E85 and 12:1. Oh and I've never had any troubles with kickers either.
    84' 200x wiseco 12:1, 30mm mikuni, k&n filter, powroll cam, bassani exhaust, 6 speed trans, running on E85

  3. #18
    rckstrgrl21 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Carlsbad, Ca
    --
    235
    I brought it to the only shop anywhere close to me that will touch three wheelers and the want 600 bucks to do this....I spent less to buy the entire trike!



    I went to megacycle's website but I dont undersyand the jibberish, can someone translate for me. I just want to know what it costs me to get the best I can, what here do I need?


    $155.00 Hardfaced (HF) cam on customer core.
    298.00 Needle bearing (NS) billet cam and mounting plate.
    No core needed. No boring required.
    59.00 #143-01 vernier drilled sprocket for accurate timing
    adjustment.
    58.00 #205-H R/D valve spring kit with aluminum tops.
    101.00 #228-H R/D valve spring kit with titanium tops.
    18.00 #30-4016 P.M. valve springs only (use stock tops).
    Wiseco piston kit with rings, pin and clips.
    10¼ :1 12:1
    98.35 #4362 PS #4289 PS — STD 65 mm
    103.27 #4156 PS #4289 P2 — .020" 65.5 mm
    #4156 P2 #4289 P4 — .040" 66 mm
    #4156 P4 N.A. — .060" 66.5 mm
    113.60 N.A. #4289 P8 — .080" 67 mm
    1985 Honda 200x
    ~K&N Airfilter
    ~Cobra Exhaust
    ~Holeshot Wheels
    ~Re-Jetted Carb.


  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Grosse Tete, LA
    --
    3,440
    well the thing is, ordering it online...you still have to bring it somewhere to have it bored.

    was that 600 bucks for a full rebuild or what?

    for you to hand them your cylinder, them order a piston, and then bore your cylinder to the correct size...it should be no more than 130$...hell closer to 100...if they try to charge you any more than that...they are trying to screw you.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Crestview, Florida
    --
    2,429
    You can buy a cylinder and topend kit together as a package on ebay.
    As for the the 218cc, re-read the info from your first post. You only get 218cc when combined with the stroker crank. If you have the cash option #2 with a stroker crank is the way to go.
    The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it.


    Rides
    85 ATC350X
    85 ATC200X


    My Feedback http://http://www.3wheelerworld.com/...-for-Erics350x

  6. #21
    roger86200x is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Western New York (Buffalo)
    --
    348

    Wink

    I went through this last year on my 86 200x... I bought the piston online for $100 shipped. It was wiseco 10.5:1 compression .020 over. Then I took the piston and cylinder to the local machine shop and was charged $85 to bore the cylinder and clean up my head/seat the valves.

    This is what you need to do as well... $600 is RIDICULUOUS... just fin a machine shop, NOT an atv/motorcycle shop as they rip you off.

    The local honda dealer wants $85 an hour to even look at it then parts prices suck and they want 4 weeks to complete....

    Taking it apart and doing it yourself is easy, and cheap. The "hardest" part is the timing.

    Find a local "machine shop" in your area and call them up and ask them how much it would be for them to bore a cylinder and clean up your head/seat the valves if you bring them the piston kit.

    Also, the 10.5:1 does give a notcible kick in the arse! You will probably have to rejet or adjust the carb though...I didnt rejet, just adjusted the mixture and its perfect now...

    Do youself and DONT buy it on ebay... get it from a reputable company that wont screw you over....

    Any questions PM me!!

    Roger
    1984 Honda ATC 250r
    Bored .020 over Wiseco, Answer silencer, fresh motor, New connecting rod and balanced crank, Boyesen 2 stage power reeds

  7. #22
    roger86200x is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Western New York (Buffalo)
    --
    348
    Quote Originally Posted by mullet_boy View Post
    I had to put a timing chain in my 84 200x and bored it and put a 12:1 in it while it was apart. I love it. Noticbly more power than it had before. I don't know where every body gets that it makes them unreliable, mine usualy start first or secod kick. And the race gas thing, I run E85. It's cheap, makes it run cooler and oesnt detonate. Maybe I just got lucky, but mine runs great with that combo of E85 and 12:1. Oh and I've never had any troubles with kickers either.
    Its not they are "unreliable", its that they wont last as long. As a previous poster stated 12:1/race gas is for racing and race motors blow up before you have them long enough to wear them out. The 12:1 is a lot hotter and has more compression - this puts more stress on ALL of the parts in your motor. If you are planning on keeping the bike, and want it to last forever/be a daily driver and dont want to buy race gas then you should go 10.5:1. The kicker comment just means you havent had it long enough for it to break. The system was designer weaker than that of the later years and it prone to failing faster. It does not mean you willl see it right after rebuilding it, or even a year later - but it COULD happen, and it has a higher chance with higher compression (more stress on the kicker, gears, and shaft).

    Roger
    1984 Honda ATC 250r
    Bored .020 over Wiseco, Answer silencer, fresh motor, New connecting rod and balanced crank, Boyesen 2 stage power reeds

  8. #23
    rckstrgrl21 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Carlsbad, Ca
    --
    235
    Ok so the next question:

    How much should I bore it?

    ~ .02"....65.5mm
    ~.04"....66mm
    ~.06"....66.5mm
    ~.08"....67mm

    Thank you!!!!
    1985 Honda 200x
    ~K&N Airfilter
    ~Cobra Exhaust
    ~Holeshot Wheels
    ~Re-Jetted Carb.


  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Crestview, Florida
    --
    2,429
    it depends on the size of the bore now and how much surface needs to be removed to clean/true it up. usually if its standard the first overbore will work, but have a machinist look at the cylinder and mic the size before you buy anything
    The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it.


    Rides
    85 ATC350X
    85 ATC200X


    My Feedback http://http://www.3wheelerworld.com/...-for-Erics350x

  10. #25
    rckstrgrl21 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Carlsbad, Ca
    --
    235
    Oh, ok...I think I am understanding a little more, I thought the bigger the bore the more power I would get, Its all the same but depends on how damaged my cylinder is, correct? so the smaller the better?!?!?
    1985 Honda 200x
    ~K&N Airfilter
    ~Cobra Exhaust
    ~Holeshot Wheels
    ~Re-Jetted Carb.


  11. #26
    drhatc200's Avatar
    drhatc200 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    northcarolina,wilkes county
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    214
    excatly you got it mine was wore.7mm thay told me going .10 wouldnt be much so i just took it.20 thay checked it and cleaned cylinder for free when i got piston it was $60 to bore it and hone it. this was done by local honda shop.like said parts was $78 from local 4 wheeler shop he gets and sells parts at his cost

  12. #27
    roger86200x is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Western New York (Buffalo)
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    348
    If you stay with a smaller bore you can bore it out more times if it becomes worn/damaged. You will get a slight performance increase by boring it out more... it is increasing cubic centimeters after all... .020 was the first bore I did, I could have gone .010 but its woth it to go to 2nd bore, from what I hear... and my bike ran MUCH snappier this way with the 10.5:1

    Roger
    1984 Honda ATC 250r
    Bored .020 over Wiseco, Answer silencer, fresh motor, New connecting rod and balanced crank, Boyesen 2 stage power reeds

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