Milestone...250R started for the first time, but....

[Taiser]

OK, finally after 2 years of building I got to the point where my 86 250r was able to be started. I got my new intake boot today so I was able to put on my oversized carb. I won't even go into details on how hard the original breather tube to the airbox was to put on!!!!!

New engine, new carb and she fired on the 5th kick (and I forgot how hard 2 bangers are on the feet!!) but...here's the problem.

The clutch won't disengage!!!

Cable and linkage is fine, adjusted every which way. I finally stopped guessing and took a pair of channel locks and spun the clutch lifter lever until it was almost facing me and the gears still would not let go

I'm digging through the manual here thinking it's maybe the lifter rod but this is an engine with less than 10 hours on it, it don't even have a scratch Gears all shift fine too!

Just wondering if the 2 stroke experts have any idea? Last 2 banger I had was a yz125 and that was a looonnnggg time ago. Help!

[Mrs.Mosh]

Sounds like you may be missing the ball bearing between the clucth rod and pressure plate.either that or you plates are stuck together.

[Taiser]

Hmm I doubt the bearing is missing as the engine has never been opened, plates sticking...maybe but wouldn't that prevent the clutch lever from moving? Grumble Grumble, I paid good cash for an engine I would not have to break open...oh well at least it's an easy peak. Any other ideas?

I'll take some shots tomorrow and post them...not much to see yet, missing the shrouds and other misc parts...the shock canister is held in place (temporarily) with twine! Just put new sprockets and chain on today too!

[Taiser]

OK, I did a search and found some other dude had the same problem I have...his plates were sticking as well, so looks like I'm popping off the clutch cover tomorrow

Any tips on what to look for. I'll go over the manual and see what needs to be done, but most guys on here have better ideas usually than the manual offers!

[torker]

Sorry to hear that bro!
I'm afraid Tammy is right. Open that thing up and do it right the first time. If the engine sat for a long time, clutch plates tend to "stick" to one another and, sometimes, they are very hard to "unhook", even when you open the side and do it by hand.
Try push starting the bike and give it a good ride. Do not force it if it does not want to change gears, lock the rear brakes and kill the engine if that's the case and open it. On the other hand it may just "unhook" the plates.
It's your call. Good luck. Hope this helps.
TORKER.

[Taiser]

It starts fine, shifts fine (when not running) but pulling the clutch in does nothing, the bike lurches then stalls when put in gear. I'll crack her open tomorrow, speaking of which, what are you guys running for oil in the 250r's? The #@$%^& service manual does not even have a "recommended" oil listed! What's the best way to unhook them? Or should I just be looking at an aftermarket clutch? I heard the 250r's clutch was a weak point, any truth to it?

[Dammit!]

The stock clutch is fine. There's an update kit out there but all it really does is replace the single ball bearing setup with a roller bearing. I have it in mine and it was an improvement but not night and day or anything. The stock plates and fibers are also the best available in my opinion. Stock springs are a little weak but if you're running a stock engine you won't notice it.

For oil you can just use cheap 10w40 if you want. The Honda 2-stroke tranny oil is probably the best though.

I'd put some good oil in it and ride it around a little bit before cracking it open. Just pop it in first when you're on some grass and spin the wheels a little bit to get going (or you can use the girly man method and have someone push you a little bit before you pop it in gear).

[Daddio]

It is definitely a weak point in the aircoolers.
It should say somewhere in the manual what should be used.
I also agree with Tammy, sounds like their stuck. Give that girl a star.

[Taiser]

Wow fast replies!

OK thanks guys, I'll try taking her for a boot tomorrow before cracking her.

As I can't adjust the clutch right now, I'm wondering how much should the clutch lever move before disengaging the clutch? I'm guessing maybe 1/2 inch??? I'll have to guestimate that before riding it tomorrow!

[WaimakRydah]

Well this happened to one of my bikes and it needed a whole new clutch which cost $439. The cable was so tight that it ed the whole clutch apparantly.

[Taiser]

WOOT, Ok you guys were right...revved the crap out of her, leaned WAY over the bars and popped her into first and took off like a bat out of hell. Then she went through all the gears no problem, so I guess it was just the plates "sticking" a bit...here's a few more issues I have maybe you guys can help me out...

1 - Clutch cable. I have the clutch cable that came with the lever and perch. It is for an 86 but the only way it works is if I take off one nut on the adjuster on the clutch lever and maxed out the other one. Then she will engage/disengage the clutch. Played with all the adjustments and all are pretty maxed out to make it work. Wrong cable maybe or could it have stretched? I'll probably order a new one no matter what, just want to make sure I'm not missing anything stupid.

2-Idle. I got her idling for a while but it seems extreme on the settings. I have a brand new PWK 39mm carb (Keihin). I put it in on the default settings and it runs but won't idle, no matter how much I screw the idle screw in. If I set the needle in the second groove and almost max out the throttle screw then it will idle at the recommended 1400 RPM. Their are no instructions with the carb other than a bunch of race settings that my simple aviation mechanical background don't get!!! Anybody familiar with these carbs? I'm at about 800' ASL. Honda manual says setting number 2 and air screw 2x out, but I doubt it would be the same for this carb...tried anyways, no joy.

3-Dies. She seems to run fine (aside from idling) but then all of sudden she will die, almost like the engine floods and no amount of throttle play stops it. Then she won't restart. If I pull the plug it looks wet and if I dry and clean it, if fires again. Carb problem again? I'm not sure. I've been playing with the settings all day, now I stopped until tomorrow before a wrench goes through a window...LOL.

4-Mixing. I put in 20 to 1 on the first half gallon or so (since the engine was sitting so long), ran it for a bit, now I'm running at about 32:1 with premium oil. Any problems with that? What are you guys running at?

Any insight appreciated!

Mark

[Dammit!]

WOOT, Ok you guys were right...revved the crap out of her, leaned WAY over the bars and popped her into first and took off like a bat out of hell. Then she went through all the gears no problem, so I guess it was just the plates "sticking" a bit...here's a few more issues I have maybe you guys can help me out...

1 - Clutch cable. I have the clutch cable that came with the lever and perch. It is for an 86 but the only way it works is if I take off one nut on the adjuster on the clutch lever and maxed out the other one. Then she will engage/disengage the clutch. Played with all the adjustments and all are pretty maxed out to make it work. Wrong cable maybe or could it have stretched? I'll probably order a new one no matter what, just want to make sure I'm not missing anything stupid.

2-Idle. I got her idling for a while but it seems extreme on the settings. I have a brand new PWK 39mm carb (Keihin). I put it in on the default settings and it runs but won't idle, no matter how much I screw the idle screw in. If I set the needle in the second groove and almost max out the throttle screw then it will idle at the recommended 1400 RPM. Their are no instructions with the carb other than a bunch of race settings that my simple aviation mechanical background don't get!!! Anybody familiar with these carbs? I'm at about 800' ASL. Honda manual says setting number 2 and air screw 2x out, but I doubt it would be the same for this carb...tried anyways, no joy.

3-Dies. She seems to run fine (aside from idling) but then all of sudden she will die, almost like the engine floods and no amount of throttle play stops it. Then she won't restart. If I pull the plug it looks wet and if I dry and clean it, if fires again. Carb problem again? I'm not sure. I've been playing with the settings all day, now I stopped until tomorrow before a wrench goes through a window...LOL.

4-Mixing. I put in 20 to 1 on the first half gallon or so (since the engine was sitting so long), ran it for a bit, now I'm running at about 32:1 with premium oil. Any problems with that? What are you guys running at?

Any insight appreciated!

Mark

With a Motion Pro cable I usually end up at nearly the max adjustment setting to get it where I want it. I prefer very little slack in the lever. Quarter inch or even a little less. To get there the adjustment down on the motor end of the cable is pretty much maxed out and so is the one on the handlebars.

Everything you need to know about carb adjustments is in the jetting sticky. Just take your time and experiment with it until you get it. At some point everything just clicks in your head and it all makes sense. Once you have that epiphany it's actually pretty easy.

20:1 for break in is fine. Most people around here run between 32:1 and 50:1. I normally run 100LL AV gas at 40:1 with Klotz Supertechniplate.

[Daddio]

Along with the idle adjustment there is another screw for the air fuel adjustment at idle. Check into that. That has to be properly adjusted so that it will idle. We run ours at 20 to 1 and jet accordingly. We have never had one melt down yet. Oil is cheaper than a rebuild.

[250rfan]

I think you may have a trx clutch cable , if you can get hold of an 85/86 atc clutch cable you will find that it fits perfectly and the adjuster down on the engine end will sit more or less in the center of the thread part leaving plenty of scope for adjustment.

If you use a trx 250r cable you will find that to make it work you will have to max out (adjustment)on both ends leaving no room for future adjustment.

Try to get hold of an OEM cable is my advise.

[beets442]

Have you checked the CDI Module? Was it running good before this happened? Could be giving a weak spark at idle. 32:1 is good depending on mods. You'll have to check different ratio's to see how yours runs best. Beets