Auto-x 11-14 done (for now) pics added

[bigred1]

first to those of you that I inquired parts about I appologize I am recently unable to make extra purchases at this time I do appreciate your time and thank you all.


So last night I decided to quit thinking about it and just start.
I've read that the 200s convert is relativly simple but as stated I'm using my 85 200m engine in my 84 200x frame I know at least one other person has done this an I'm trying to find out who and what thread I saw it in haven't found it yet.

So far I think I will need to dimple the front down tube and mod the brake pedal.
Also I'll need to figure out where to mount my added elect. hardware.

I've got both engines removed and today I'll try and get the auto engine in and post pics as I go along. Any tips or advice is helpful thank you.

[rdlsz24]

What exactly is an Auto-X? I've seen it mentioned on here but I don't know what it means. I'm guessing some sort of hybrid? What is the purpose of doing it?

Rob

[bigred1]

the 200x has hand clutch the 200s and m have semi auto drives. I guess most often done for the convenience of not needing to hand clutch. I'm doing because
1. the x engine needs rebuilt and the m runs fine
2. I like to do more trails/woods riding than track.

[roger86200x]

What is the difference between 200s, 200m, and 200e? I knew at one point but it got over written with something else lol...

[bigred1]

200-s no electric start , recoil pull start only
200-m electric start
200-e also electric start but it has a high low sub trans.

[roger86200x]

200-s no electric start , recoil pull start only
200-m electric start
200-e also electric start but it has a high low sub trans.

aha! The high low trans is what I 4got....

Thanks!

[bigred1]

doin some work on the engine today. Swaping the head and cam (maybe) I'm looking into the bad cam cause I might jsut replace the top end on the x and put it back in not sure yet..

[MO dx]

I did that same swap there should be pics of the build under my threads. Its a little harder then the S swap becuase of the starter hitting the frt tube and making a place to mount the battery and charging wires. But it can be done.

[bigred1]

well I bought a small torch set and tried my hand at heating up the down tube to make room for the starter.I'm using a small bottle of map gas and oxygen didn't do so well though. I think I was to worried I would get it to hot and melt it. I've never done this kinda work before and used up my small bottle of oxygen. I'll get another one and maybe I'll have better luck now that I have a better understanding of how long it takes to heat up metal. It won't look as good as yours MO dx but as long as I can get the starter in I'll be happy.

[WIkid500]

Yeah heat that baby up cherry red. You won't melt it if you keep moving the torch. It will get real yellow/ bright just before it melts, just keep it at a nice red/ orange and you will be fine.

[MO dx]

Find a pc of pipe and practice heating and shaping that first. Then you won`t give yourself more work on x frame. I `ll try to give help where I can

[bigred1]

I got the frame bent finaly deffinately does not look prety but it'll work.
got the engine put in ( 85 200m lower end w/84 200x head/cam and a 200s valve cover) and I have 0 compression. So I put on a 200x valve cover and now have 30 pounds pressure.

Is there a way to remove the valve springs without buying the valve compressor tool which is about 72$ where I checked?

[rdlsz24]

I made my own valve compressor tool out of a socket with the side cut out and a c-clamp that you tighten by hand. You put the socket on top of the spring retainer and put the top of the c-clamp on top of the socket and the bottom of c-clamp on the bottom of the head and then you start to tighten the clamp so it compresses the spring. The side cut out of the socket gives you access to get your small screwdriver in there to pop the cotter pins out. I've used it on a couple heads including the YFZ I used to have. If this sounds confusing, which it did to me the first time I read it on a YFZ forum, I can post a picture tonight since I still have my 200x head on my workbench.

Rob

[Yamada]

I got the frame bent finaly deffinately does not look prety but it'll work.
got the engine put in ( 85 200m lower end w/84 200x head/cam and a 200s valve cover) and I have 0 compression. So I put on a 200x valve cover and now have 30 pounds pressure.

Is there a way to remove the valve springs without buying the valve compressor tool which is about 72$ where I checked?

Did you adjusted the valve clearence after switching valve covers?? Remember that because the cylinder to valve cover seal is silicone it greatly affect the rocker to valve position. JUst trying to help you.

[bigred1]

I made my own valve compressor tool out of a socket with the side cut out and a c-clamp that you tighten by hand. You put the socket on top of the spring retainer and put the top of the c-clamp on top of the socket and the bottom of c-clamp on the bottom of the head and then you start to tighten the clamp so it compresses the spring. The side cut out of the socket gives you access to get your small screwdriver in there to pop the cotter pins out. I've used it on a couple heads including the YFZ I used to have. If this sounds confusing, which it did to me the first time I read it on a YFZ forum, I can post a picture tonight since I still have my 200x head on my workbench.

Rob

think I get it but if you could post pics that would be great.
what size socket did you use?