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Thread: OK, Tecate guys New questions post #16. Splitting cases? Changing bearings and seals?

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    OK, Tecate guys New questions post #16. Splitting cases? Changing bearings and seals?

    It's been a long while since I've torn down an engine so my mind has plenty of rust. My 85 T3 engine has some welded up cases and i FINALLY found a pair of good cases on a non running 85 T3 engine (it may be an 84)

    I basically want to take apart the engine with the good cases (keep any salvageable parts for future use or ??) and then tear down my good T3 engine and put everything in the good cases.

    I have bought a complete gasket set and complete seal set. So that stuff will all be new. And I know it will be asked so the answer is YES, I do have the original factory repair manual and will use it as my guide.

    So here are some questions for those who have experience and are willing to share.

    1. When it is all done I will end up buying a Ricky flywheel and Stator. Will I be able to find info on setting the timing for that?

    2. Will I run into any problems where a special tool will be required other then the flywheel puller which I already have?

    3. Is there any bearings that are a "must" change while its apart? I don't want to use the old crank bearings, even if they are good, if it means it'll break down in a week.

    4. Any other mods or updates that would be recommended while it's apart that will help with dependability or maybe even a little more power or anything?

    That's all I can think of for now but if I have more, I'll come back to this thread. Thanks in advance for any advice. Bottom line is, I want to do this right. No shortcuts.
    Last edited by Hoosier_Daddy; 12-23-2008 at 05:10 PM.

  2. #2
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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    I have a Ricky Stator flywheel and stator. All you do is line up the timing marks on the stator with the marks on the motor. Done. There are guys on here who say Ricky's timing marks are off, but I've yet to have any problems with mine. In fact, I personally had a huge power gain with the Ricky stator.

    The flywheel puller sells on Ebay for like 12 bucks or something. You can also use a steering wheel puller or 3-way puller if you have one of those. Obviously crank bearings and seals are a must. All other seals are a must, too. Especially the water pump seal. Some of the tranny bearings you could probly re-use, but if you've got 'em why not replace 'em.

    When you're done always make sure you have some kind of chain guide and a case saver. After all that work, one hop of the chain could put you right back to square one.
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    most cases will come apart with some light persuasion with a rubber mallet.. stubborn one will require a puller.. by the time you get your old cases apart you will have it figured out.. a propane torch and our freezer will ease the reassembly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cr480r View Post
    most cases will come apart with some light persuasion with a rubber mallet.. stubborn one will require a puller.
    Thank you for that info
    . by the time you get your old cases apart you will have it figured out.. a propane torch and our freezer will ease the reassembly.
    Tis one, I wouldn't mind a little better explaination. Do you cool them in the freezer and then heat themto get them together? Or do you freeze one and heat the other? Thanks.

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    Tri-Z Pilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosier_Daddy View Post
    Thank you for that infoTis one, I wouldn't mind a little better explaination. Do you cool them in the freezer and then heat themto get them together? Or do you freeze one and heat the other? Thanks.
    Bearings go in the freezer to shrink them for easier installation, I guess the heat is for the actual case if you need to expand the metal or something. Dont go putting cold bearings into a hot case though, use one method or the other as going from really cold to really hot could break something.
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    fabiodriven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tri-Z Pilot View Post
    Bearings go in the freezer to shrink them for easier installation, I guess the heat is for the actual case if you need to expand the metal or something. Dont go putting cold bearings into a hot case though, use one method or the other as going from really cold to really hot could break something.
    The whole cold-hot thing won't hurt anything. Freeze the bearings, heat the cases. I used to work at a machine shop that did comlete engine teardowns, and boring and sleeving. The proper way to install a sleeve is to put the sleeve in the freezer and the cylender in the oven. When correctly machined, the two just slide together and leave about 3-5 seconds to line up the ports before the two become one.
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    Tri-Z Pilot's Avatar
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    Ok, I was goin off of memory, I didnt want to give any advice to screw anything up, I figured one or the other due to the opposites in temps. We used to always use the feezer for kingpins and bearings on rigs when I worked servicing a fleet of tri-axle dumps.
    Current Rides-Soon to be 85 350X, 84 200X
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    Originally Posted by atctim
    I prefer to be called a "3 wheeled American" I find the term "Trike People" very offensive and derogatory!
    SOON MY PRECIOUS!

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    Love the help so far guys. Thanks.

    I'll go ahead and plan on buying new crank bearings for it. I don't know what other bearings are in there. I do have some new clutch frictions so it will have new clutches as well.

    Will the transmission parts be a pain in the rump for me? Any type of gear wear i should look for other then the obvious broken teeth or visibly rounded?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosier_Daddy View Post
    Will the transmission parts be a pain in the rump for me? Any type of gear wear i should look for other then the obvious broken teeth or visibly rounded?
    I doubt the trans will give you any trouble.. its not like parts are gonna fly out at ya or anything..lol.. the kawis (especially yours) are very simple. after the clutch, ignition, kick start mechanism, and cylinder are removed there really is very few parts left to deal with. Once the case halves come apart pull the pins for the shifting forks and remove them.. then pull the transmission mainshaft and counter shaft out together and set them aside.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cr480r View Post
    I doubt the trans will give you any trouble.. its not like parts are gonna fly out at ya or anything..lol.. the kawis (especially yours) are very simple. after the clutch, ignition, kick start mechanism, and cylinder are removed there really is very few parts left to deal with. Once the case halves come apart pull the pins for the shifting forks and remove them.. then pull the transmission mainshaft and counter shaft out together and set them aside.
    Good news there.

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    Freeze the crank.

    If you lay the cases on there side, and pull one half and crank. Do the bearings/seals, then put it back together and flip it over. Repeat. Then the trans stays together.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nd4speed View Post
    Freeze the crank.

    If you lay the cases on there side, and pull one half and crank. Do the bearings/seals, then put it back together and flip it over. Repeat. Then the trans stays together.
    That would work. But since he is replacing the cases it would probably be easier to just set the trans aside, inspect it, and use whichever trans is in the best condition.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cr480r View Post
    That would work. But since he is replacing the cases it would probably be easier to just set the trans aside, inspect it, and use whichever trans is in the best condition.
    If i have to use a rubber mallet to separate them, where should I hit so no damage occurs or no parts come flying out? lol

  14. #14
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    I hit the end of the crank. Kinda awkward to do by yourself but not impossible (if they come apart fairly easy?).

    Missed the part about the cases. Darn, I have a set of case halves to sell as long as they look ok inside.
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    When it goes together, make sure you don't force it. If you have to beat it together you will soon take it apart again. I forced mine together and fried the crank bearings in about 30 minutes. The second time I cooled the crank and had better luck.
    Take your time and do it once.

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