OK, Tecate guys New questions post #16. Splitting cases? Changing bearings and seals?

[cr480r]

Well, I got it all down to bare cases. It wasn't really all that bad. i have to use some innovation here and there. I think the hardest part may be when i put new crank bearings on it. That may give me trouble..........The seals are easy to pop out and I'm confident that i am careful enough to replace all the seals properly. I've done similar stuff before.

just buy or borrow the correct tools.. i would rather spend money on tools than pay a shop to do simple work..

the cheapest quote I can find is $160 to put the new rod and bearing on for me. Since the rod and bearing on my bike is in really good shape, i just don't know if it's worth putting that much more into it for only peace of mind.

thats way too much money.. if your good one is still tight I would just re-use it for now.. send your bad crank away to get rebuilt when you find a better deal and replace it at a later date.. its only a few more bolts to pull the whole engine next time you need a top-end..

[nd4speed]

I think Lang Tuning is in Sturgis MI just across the border. Like I said, gas is cheap. Call and get a quote for all the work you need and make one trip.
There should be lots of Motorcycle shops around Buchanan, MI where Red Bud is?

Or ship it to somebody and get it done for like $100 total.

Name: Lang Tuning
Street: 62504 North M 66
Sturgis, mi 49091-9336
Phone: (269) 651-7914

[Hoosier_Daddy]

just buy or borrow the correct tools.. i would rather spend money on tools than pay a shop to do simple work..

I am thinking about fabricating a press using some square steel tubing and a hydraulic bottle jack. That is basically what they use anyway right? If not, what is the proper way to remove and install crank bearings?

Plus, I'm sure my fabricated press would come in handy for many things.

thats way too much money.. if your good one is still tight I would just re-use it for now.. send your bad crank away to get rebuilt when you find a better deal and replace it at a later date.. its only a few more bolts to pull the whole engine next time you need a top-end..

I think Lang Tuning is in Sturgis MI just across the border. Like I said, gas is cheap. Call and get a quote for all the work you need and make one trip.
There should be lots of Motorcycle shops around Buchanan, MI where Red Bud is?

Or ship it to somebody and get it done for like $100 total.

Name: Lang Tuning
Street: 62504 North M 66
Sturgis, mi 49091-9336
Phone: (269) 651-7914

If he was talking about a place in Sturgis, hell that is only a 45 min drive for me so that would be cool. I'll check it out. I have family in southern Mich so I'm pretty familiar and not too awful far away from most of it. Some family live outside of Benton Harbor in a small town called Baroda so we went to Warran dunes all the time. I've been to Red Bud countless times. Used to go to Sturgis every weekend for the "hell of it" shopping trips when i was a teen and my dad got bored of Ft Wayne. Back then, there was a lot more stores in Sturgis. Now, there is little reason to go there unless i have a purpose like this.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

But, even for $60, if my rod and bearings are good and tight should i even bother replacing them? I can get the tolerance out of the repair manual and check it but It seems really good. Sinse it seems to be really good, is that particular part that big of a deal in your guys' opinions?

[cr480r]

I am thinking about fabricating a press using some square steel tubing and a hydraulic bottle jack. That is basically what they use anyway right? If not, what is the proper way to remove and install crank bearings?

Plus, I'm sure my fabricated press would come in handy for many things

I would use a bearing puller on a slide to remove them, and use the hot/cold technique in combination with a and brass drift to install them

But, even for $60, if my rod and bearings are good and tight should i even bother replacing them? I can get the tolerance out of the repair manual and check it but It seems really good. Sinse it seems to be really good, is that particular part that big of a deal in your guys' opinions?

The con rod bearing is a big deal... however I wouldnt replace parts that still have life left in them.. the tolerance is zero movement up and down.. there is a side clearance spec, but its not real critical unless you are pressing new parts together(.018-.024).. as long as its nots real excessive (.030+) or the thrust washers look tore up I would run it... doesnt it run fine now?

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I would use a bearing puller on a slide to remove them, and use the hot/cold technique in combination with a and brass drift to install them



The con rod bearing is a big deal... however I wouldnt replace parts that still have life left in them.. the tolerance is zero movement up and down.. there is a side clearance spec, but its not real critical unless you are pressing new parts together(.018-.024).. as long as its nots real excessive (.030+) or the thrust washers look tore up I would run it... doesnt it run fine now?

Yeah, runs great now.

This tear down was mostly due to a couple leaky seals and I wanted some cases that hadn't been welded up like mine are. I found the doner engine with good cases so I will replace all the gaskets and seals in the process. I'll probably only replace the crank bearings and the water pump bearings.

[cr480r]

I would use your best crank and rebuild the other one as soon as you can since you already have the parts.. you'll only be out a couple hours of your time, wristpin circlips, a base gasket, and trans oil to replace the crank later..

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I would use your best crank and rebuild the other one as soon as you can since you already have the parts.. you'll only be out a couple hours of your time, wristpin circlips, a base gasket, and trans oil to replace the crank later..

If i choose to go ahead and have the crank rebuilt, do i have to worry about it being balanced? Is balancing cranks pretty pricey? I'll have all winter to get this rebuild done. I'm in no hurry so I might just go ahead and have the crank done anyway.

plus, keep in mind that I'm going to give that PVL ignition a try. If i don't like it, i can always put a Ricky on later. I have 18" Fast Trekkers on the rear so I know that lowered the gearing. I don't know if that will help with the low end problems the PVL may cause but i could try some other gearing too. I don't know yet. Anyway, with that in mind, is it more important to do the crank, even possibly get it balanced since I'll be starting out with the PVL?

[tecat-z]

If you want a balanced crank, it has to be done professionally. It will reduce vibration at all rpm's and will help certain components of the the engine last longer. It does get pricey though. Crankworks is very good for all your needs. But honistly, unless you plan on building a serious engine. Balancing is not mandatory. Runout and thrust clearance are critical with a fresh rod kit.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

If you want a balanced crank, it has to be done professionally. It will reduce vibration at all rpm's and will help certain components of the the engine last longer. It does get pricey though. Crankworks is very good for all your needs. But honistly, unless you plan on building a serious engine. Balancing is not mandatory. Runout and thrust clearance are critical with a fresh rod kit.

No, I'm not planning on building anything too serious. I don't even know wht runout and thrust are. haha

[cr480r]

plus, keep in mind that I'm going to give that PVL ignition a try. If i don't like it, i can always put a Ricky on later. I have 18" Fast Trekkers on the rear so I know that lowered the gearing. I don't know if that will help with the low end problems the PVL may cause but i could try some other gearing too. I don't know yet. Anyway, with that in mind, is it more important to do the crank, even possibly get it balanced since I'll be starting out with the PVL?

I would comphensate for the 18's with different sprockets for sure.. otherwise you will find that is too low geared.. you'll go through the gear way too quick and it wont even be fast.. crank balancing has nothing to do with what ignition you choose... flywheel mass doesnt create power.. it just increases momentary inertia..

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I would comphensate for the 18's with different sprockets for sure.. otherwise you will find that is too low geared.. you'll go through the gear way too quick and it wont even be fast.. crank balancing has nothing to do with what ignition you choose... flywheel mass doesnt create power.. it just increases momentary inertia..

Are you familiar with gearing? Under the circumstance should I start by getting a smaller rear sprocket? Or should i go to a bigger front sprocket? Any advantage to either? How many teeth do I know how to add/subtract when gearing?

[cr480r]

Are you familiar with gearing? Under the circumstance should I start by getting a smaller rear sprocket? Or should i go to a bigger front sprocket? Any advantage to either? How many teeth do I know how to add/subtract when gearing?

IMO its better to have a small rear sprocket for 2 reasons.. one reason is it lets you keep a larger front sprocket (they last longer and dont wear the slider as much).. the other reason is the slight gain in ground clearance

[Hoosier_Daddy]

With a PVL and 18" Trekkers, where should I start on the rear sprocket? Any input?

[nd4speed]

List of Polaris rear sprockets that fit and usually on ebay cheap:
http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/s...t=60994&page=4

Just saw a discussion about this and they were suggesting something like up 2 in the front or down 6 in the rear.