250es Big Red things to check?

[jpcounty69]

I am new to the forum and am now the owner of a 1986 250es Big Red. It looks to have been used hard and I am in the process of going through it and fixing it up a bit (anyone have a usable right side fender/sideplate for sale?). I am searching for advice from people on this forum of the "Must Check" or inspect/replace items specific to this model as I do not have a manual. During a few test rides I have noticed what almost feels and sounds like a dry bearing at certain speeds or rpms and appears somewhat intermittent. I have checked the differential oil and it looks clean and at the proper level. I also expeerience a strange idle issue in that it will idle very fast at times but after adjusting it will then be to low at other times and die....no happy medium and again intermittent. I plan to inspect the carb and look for vacum leaks but thought I may ask advice. Thanks in advance for any pointers and things to check!!

[oscarmayer]

the drive-line is the first thing to work on over any cosmetic stuff like plastics and seat.

Engine:
Do a compression test. first by pulling the plug and turning the trike over. (if electric start works, your lucky, if not use the kick start and do it by hand as the plug is put and you won;t get much resistance) if it blows your finger off the hole then your looking good. if not then you have either bad valve(s), bad rings, bad valve job, cylinder is bad, if your lucky could be just timing off or valve adjustment is needed But something in the top end is most likely bad, so time to open it up and fix it.
if compression blows finger off hole, then get a compression tester and check compression. look up #'s in manual to ensure they are within spec. If good then do a basic tuneup. Replace plug, completely rebuild carb and check timing. change all fluids.

drive line:
remove the rear axle assembly, and then remove the drive-shaft. inspect all u-joints. replace any seals there and also the boot. (most parts can be found on ebay) if the joints are work and have play, you will need to replace them.
take the rear end housing off and replace all seals. I'm more than certain if this was not done then the front diff seal is most likely leaking.

brakes:
check all cables and pads. (requires pulling front tire off and side tire off and part of a housing off). if cables are binding replace them. if pads are worn, then replace them. Your life is worth more than the $32 w/shipping worth of brake cables and $65 w/shipping worth of pads.

electrical:
check all connection points. inspect all parts of the harness for chafing and cracked/damaged wiring. repair bad areas (solder not but connect and use heat-shrink not tape on repaired area) and check fuses. use a connection tester to ensure the fuses are good. if your keeping the trike, then get a tube of dielectric grease from the auto store and use it on all the connections. this will do 2 things. help prevent corrosion and help you when you need to remove for repairs.

frame:
check over the entire frame and inspect for rusty holes and cracks. (rusty holes are holes that are rusted through in the frame and weaken it.) if you find rusted through holes, you need to grind out the bad spots and use a piece of tubing cut to fit over the hole and weld it up all around the repaired area. you may want to spray some rust neutralizer in the hole you made removing the rust to ensure it helps prevent future rust spots.
if cracks are found you need to grind a very slight "v" shape over the cracks and weld the "v" in completely ensuring you get good penetration on both sides of the "V". once done, prime and paint.

finally after it's running stopping and doing like it should, then you can work on the cosmetics. such as body replacement and seat repair. if 1 side is damaged i imagine the other side is probably not far off from breaking too. (unless it was damage din an accident not from wear and tear) purchase a new replica set and install them. they run $180+shipping, but it will last for many more years and save you tons of time and headaches trying to find a good fender. the 2500ES is a hard one to find good body parts for, and even used ones on line go for nearly new piece. (last rear set i saw with a couple of minor cracks sold for $120 on ebay.)

good luck with it and take your time.
once you remove the rear end and if you have to do motor work, you may consider taking a drill with a wire brush attached and hitting the frame up to remove the rust. then treat it with rust proof primer (prevents rust and neutralizes it) then repaint with semi-gloss black. On the bottom of the trike and skid plate, I like to use spray on bed liner that hardens. it's chemical resistant and once try it's hard. it actually helps the bottom of the frame and skid plate from taking so much damage. (i do this on all my restored trikes)

anyway, good luck man!

[jpcounty69]

Thanks! The engine starts and runs good and electric start does work. I will check compression and valve clearence asap. Do you know what a typical PSI gauge should read for compression? Do you think the engine idle issue and/or strange intermitent sound/vibration I hear is engine related? I don't want to pull the head/valve cover off if it may not be necessary. Could someone give me a quick rundown on checking or adjusting timing? Is there also a cam chain adjustment or is it automatic? THANKS EVERYONE!!!