the splines and the u joint are good, no breaks. No splines missing or worn.
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Roostin Away
the splines and the u joint are good, no breaks. No splines missing or worn.
Power User
Catch me if you can
Take it apart, see how bad it is and it's possible a kit can save it, aren't the kits about 70$??
The bad thing about repairing a diff thats shot is that all the journals where the shafts are pitted and corroded. You can see in Scotts pic how bad his journals are. You can shine them up with 400 and 600 grit cloth a bit but the surface will remain abrasive. And with every turn, it eats at your seal just a bit more.
The back of the pinion bearing also has a bearing which if that portion of the pinion shaft is worn or pitted, it will not ride within the bearing tightly and the tooth wear pattern can be affected because that back bearing supports the pinion shaft.
Then when the seal gets sloppy and water has a chance to get back in there again and the process starts all over again.
With the SX, ES and BReds, there are hub seals and a drive shaft boot to stop water and dirt at the first front, then the seals surrounding the 3 differential bearings is the next barrier. If any of these go bad, water eats the entire differential. I really try and avoid deep water with my SX, it's fun, but not fun finding excellant parts to fix it again.....
I must admit though, these are not rocket ships going hundreds and hundreds of miles and a quick rebuild may be just fine for plenty of people
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Power User
Got the holeshot
Be sure when you take this apart...DO NOT MIX UP THE SHIMS for the gears. Measure them and label them accordingly. You do not want to mix them up!
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Roostin Away
DC- Just taking a quick look at mine today. i may be better buying a new one. The inside is straight rust and grit. I am wondering though, how come silicone, gasket paper and some other lovely ingredients dont work to keep water out. Do they get in by the axle shaft, or is there another way?
There is always a way to fix and make better on whats going on on the machines. So what place should I start?
If one of my gears is screwed, does honda still make the gears or am I SOL? Would a Trx differential work as far as anyone knows?
Power User
Catch me if you can
Originally Posted by Twilight
Jeff is SO right about the shims, Honda has like 12 different thickness's
You can't "fix" them, Honda did great! It's lack of maintenance that wears them past the service limit. I'll make an good analogy to a girl thats been with a bunch of a holes her whole life, then along comes Mr Nice Guy - Too bad, soo sad but she is too far gone at this point to FIX HER!!!!!
I try to find good parts and tear them down, file and stone every mating surface and seal them with silicone. Replace bearings, all seals and make sure every journal is nice and shiny. Grease every spline with super thick grease that water cannot penetrate. Then it's a good diff that you can maintain.....
Do a search about the TRX diff, I know the ES is the same but geared in a manner that you will lose top end speen running SX 22" tires.
All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country
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Thanks, Honda does great with all. I know all about human error and before i found manuals... lol I do a lot myself.
Good thing for me I have a photographic memory. As I tear it down I will fix and clean as I go. Right now I am having trouble with the rear axle, its not budging for some reason.
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Roostin Away
Well, i am now debating what to do. One of my fellow Pilot owners has a parts bike in Illinois that he will get the diff off for me if I want it, he cant test it because he doesnt have a way to that he knows of.
attempt to fix... or try luck with another... dunno yet.
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Roostin Away
Also I still dont understand why when I move the wheels in neutral it spins the driveshaft just fine, but when the engine is on and in gear it doesnt make the connection and only the driveshaft spins.
Can anyone shed light on this?
Power User
Catch me if you can
Your post is somewhat confusing to me
The ring and pinion are a direct positive link PERIOD. No matter what the engine does or is doing unless something is stripped and grabbing "sometimes"
Now if the whole arse end were removed, and the engine was running even in neutral, the output shaft would spin due to friction, but you could stop it with a pair of pliers.
It's tough for me to explain ( It's been awhile for me....) but it has 2 one way clutches that slip in one direction and grab in the other. Thats why the kickers slip, the one way clutch in the centrifugal clutch (rt side) has worn out and slips.
The clutch in the flywheel side (lt side) allows the starter to drive over the engine in one direction and spin free in the other. If this clutch fails, the starter gears get chewed to hell....
Those axles seize up in the chuck splines from corrosion, the hubs seize too! and I think the SX axle comes out the right side, not the left.
Download the manual and make sure your going the right way there professor
All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country
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Trust me I have checked the manual. I will try and be more scientific now.
Motor when placed in neutral I can lift the bike up and spin the rear tires and the shaft turns with no play or noise. Now, when I upshift into S1 gear, the driveshaft will spin, but the rear wheels stop and will NOT turn freely, they stutter forward in small increments of an inch or 1/2in. 2nd-4th gear will do the same. Now when I get into the 5th gear, there is a grinding noise in the differential.
So, my conclusion was the differential. Before I placed the engine into the SX frame I tested it and the output shaft spun hard and strong and couldnt be stopped by any of my means.
I have no tried reverse since right now all the cables for brakes have been removed.
Driveshaft spins from the engine in all gears... wheels dont budge more than an inch. So im guessing the differential is toast. Sun-Tues it worked fine, I loaded it up on the trailer, came home and she wouldnt drive off.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
it could be the splines on the driveshaft that connect to the rear diff. are worn and when you turn the tires it puts reverse load on them causing them to grip and turn the driveshaft. But when the engine is turning the driveshaft it causes them to slip because thats the way they are worn kinda like a chain sproket when its worn out if that makes any sense? Just an idea.
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