So, explain this "Start/Run/Off" switch on the zinger to me...

[Billy Golightly]

A friend of mine has one here we're trying to work on and get going again. It won't start without putting fuel down the plug, and when it does, it idles, and it only idles. The throttle doesn't do squat. The slide operates and I've checked and done all the stuff. It runs very smoothly at this speed, but thats all it does. Switching it tothe run switch either kills the motor, or it increases speed slightly and the throttle still doesn't do anything. It seems to me like its being electronically governed to that speed or something in the ignition, is that a common problem or issue?

The second thing is getting it to start without dumping fuel in the cylinder...I read briefly during a search about the choke valve, if its not perfect it won't start, so thats probably what the issue is there.

But the governor thing...need to get that squared away first.

[Vealmonkey]

I don't really know how to explain it. It's just the way it is. I had trouble with my zinger when I first got it and when I replaced the switch on the handlebar, everything seemed to work fine. I also made sure that I had the piece for the tether switch in place under the rear fender. But once you had it in "start" and had the engine running, you switch to "run". You may have a bad switch at the handlebar.

[boosted96cobra]

Man I had nothing but trouble with that. The "start" has an electronic rev limiter and it keeps the revs low enough the clutch won't engage. At first it was exactly how you describe, then I repaired the clutch springs and got the carb going right. Then it was somewhat useable, but it still had problems with the rev limit deal. So I bypassed the switch completely but it was still exactly the same. You would ride it and the rev limit would kick in randomly. Rev up then bog all the down to the da da da then go again, then bog, then go, then bog...you get the idea. This was with the switched bypassed too.

So one day out at the dunes I just kept messing with it. I knew the cdi had a rev limit, and if it did that it needed a rev signal from the motor, so I started unplugging wires from the cdi and finally found the wire. Since then it ran like a champ. With the clutch springs working correctly it won't take off in run either if the idle is low and normal.

If is is surging like it is trying to go when it is on start then you clutch springs are bad. This was the main thing wrong with mine. I really thought it was the carb, and it was damn frusterating not knowing what was going on. I could lift it up and the tires would spin and it would rev up, but if you did it with the tires on the ground the clutch was fully engaged so it would bog and die.

I honestly think if your carb is good and clean (which I bet it is knowing who working on it) if you take off the clutch cover and free up the clutch and replace the springs and unplug that wire you will be flying around the yard in an hour or two.

[LonesomeTriZ]

Start- pull cord and feather the throttle. Once the engine tones level out switch it to run then step back. Chase takes off like like he is on fire.

[smokinwrench]

I had this problem with the zinger I bought from Howdy. Make sure the tether switch in the rear is bypassed properly or the tether is installed. Carbs are very very easy to get dirt in them, clean it and install a filter.

[Tiffanyreed730]

Man I had nothing but trouble with that. The "start" has an electronic rev limiter and it keeps the revs low enough the clutch won't engage. At first it was exactly how you describe, then I repaired the clutch springs and got the carb going right. Then it was somewhat useable, but it still had problems with the rev limit deal. So I bypassed the switch completely but it was still exactly the same. You would ride it and the rev limit would kick in randomly. Rev up then bog all the down to the da da da then go again, then bog, then go, then bog...you get the idea. This was with the switched bypassed too.

So one day out at the dunes I just kept messing with it. I knew the cdi had a rev limit, and if it did that it needed a rev signal from the motor, so I started unplugging wires from the cdi and finally found the wire. Since then it ran like a champ. With the clutch springs working correctly it won't take off in run either if the idle is low and normal.

If is is surging like it is trying to go when it is on start then you clutch springs are bad. This was the main thing wrong with mine. I really thought it was the carb, and it was damn frusterating not knowing what was going on. I could lift it up and the tires would spin and it would rev up, but if you did it with the tires on the ground the clutch was fully engaged so it would bog and die.

I honestly think if your carb is good and clean (which I bet it is knowing who working on it) if you take off the clutch cover and free up the clutch and replace the springs and unplug that wire you will be flying around the yard in an hour or two.

Which wire did you unplug?