1922 south bend 9'' lathe restore ......New stuff

[SWIGIN]

Well, i got it all rigged up and so far it works perfect. With a turn of the gear box handle i can go from 720 rpm to 60 rpm with out using back gear!

My top speed is a tad slow but a simple pulley change will take care of that. I'm shooting for 850-1000 rpm. When i do get my top speed up to 1000 or so I will need back gear for real low rpm but for the most part all I'll have to do is just turn the handle to dial in my speeds.







Here is a shot of the old school RPM counter HRE left me borrow.

[racerxxx]

Hey Swigin,

Are you using a serpentine belt for the flat belt? Looks like it, that's a great idea! My dads old Southbend has the leather flat belt and if you take too heavy a cut you can slip the belt, but I bet with the rubber serpentine she'd grip prett well.

[SWIGIN]

Yes it is a serpentine belt. It is a huge improvement over leather but if you do get it to slip it squeals like a pig.

What size lathe do you have? Do you have any pictures of it?

[SWIGIN]

I dialed in my speeds to what im calling good. I swaped the 2'' pulley for a 3 1/4'' pulley to get my top speed from 720rpm to 1100rpm.

I'm making a speed chart to put on the green box so I'll know what gear does what, I'll post a pic when I get the chart done.

[blue27]

that gear box need to be painted blue!!!! or repaint the whole thing amish grey,lol

[Dirtcrasher]

Like I said, you've got some serious ambition!! And always nice work!

I used my lathe allot this weekend for something I'm making up. That stock toolpost hold has me going NUTS!!

Let me know if you see a 4/5 in 1 quick changer, I like the wedge type......

I gotta back up a fe pages and see what you have for a tool holder?? The round boring bar wasn't cutting the mustard yesterday when boring a shaft ID ................ I got it, but not easily.

EDIT - Where's your backgear shaft?? I gotta make some offset bushings but then I'm ready to use it.

[SWIGIN]

or repaint the whole thing amish grey,lol

........................I used to think you were an OK guy.................

[SWIGIN]

Like I said, you've got some serious ambition!! And always nice work!

I used my lathe allot this weekend for something I'm making up. That stock toolpost hold has me going NUTS!!

Let me know if you see a 4/5 in 1 quick changer, I like the wedge type......

I gotta back up a fe pages and see what you have for a tool holder?? The round boring bar wasn't cutting the mustard yesterday when boring a shaft ID ................ I got it, but not easily.

EDIT - Where's your backgear shaft?? I gotta make some offset bushings but then I'm ready to use it.

thanks man, I use a phase 2 quick change piston type tool holder and for the money they can't be beat. I even got HRE to get one for his 10'' SB.

I just took some pics before putting my backgear and covers on so the new setup could be seen better. But to be honest, i wont need backgear much anymore....wait till you see my speed chart.

here is a link to the cheapest place i found phase2 tool holders. I bought 4 extra holders so i have like 9 total ready to drop onto my tool post. the set screws are cheesy but they are cheap enough to swap out.
http://www.cdcotools.com/index.php

[Dirtcrasher]

Thanks for that link!!

Whats the one you have? It must also be for a 13" lathe??

What you have is what I need, ENCO wants 200$ for a wedge type and 180$ for a piston. Which are you using, any thoughts??

Thanks!!!!!!!

Whats the difference of AXA, BXA and CXA??

[SWIGIN]

I have the phase2 AXA or series 100 piston type. There is 2 ways of sizing these tool posts but AXA is sometimes called 100 series, BXB = 200, CXC = 300... ect
Here is a shot of it right when i got the lathe.


The AXA is made for lathes with 9-12'' swing.....BXB is for larger swing and CXC is for larger yet.

I cant stand the old lantern style original tool post either but every once in a while I find a need for it.

Here is the size I'm useing but like I said the set screws are cheap and will round out, but the tool holder is made well and works like a dream. http://www.cdcotools.com/index.php (link didn't work... search item number 29461 on that site)

here's another place that sells quick change tool post kits.
http://www.shars.com/products/view/1...iston_Type_100


To make a long story short, my lathe came with the phase2 tool post in the pic above. I wanted more drop on tool holders so i ordered 4 AXA holders from cdcotools and they seem to be just as good as the phase2 holders but the screws are junk....I'd bet they are made in the same plant as phase2.

[SWIGIN]

Today i made my new speed chart so I can keep track of all 60 speeds and know what RPM I'm turning. I tried to make it old looking by useing colors that the original lathe tags used and by useing a old looking font.

This is 1/4'' plexiglas and the vinal decals are on the back side of the plexi so the decal wont get messed up by oil or whatever.

[sixpackrt]

I have access to a friends south bend lathe been sitting in his basement the letters on the top are LCR.
I'm also trying to figure out what this lathe Is there is no L. I see T = 13 what does J mean ?

catalog # 113 c

Swing Gear, Apron, and Drive Spindle and Swing Type

N= 9 inch K= Quick Change Gear (QCG), Friction Feed Apron, R= Regular Spindle Hole,
Underneath Motor Drive (UMD
Standard Swing
R= 10 inch P= Standard Change Gear, L= Large Spindle Hole,
Friction Feed Apron, UMD Standard Swing

T= 13 inch A= Quick Change Gear (QCG), Friction Feed Apron, E= Regular Spindle Hole,
Overhead Countershaft Drive (CS) Raised Swing

F= 14 1/2 inch B= Standard Change Gear (SCG), D= Large Spindle Hole,
Friction Feed Apron, CS Raised Swing

H= 16 and 16/24 C= Standard Change Gear (SCG), T= Turret
Screw Feed Gear, CS

Y= Standard Change Gear (SCG), X= Special
Screw Feed Gear, UMD
C= Cam Lock Spindle

K= Taper Key Lock Spindle

The following factors about the lathe are conveyed in the catalog number because of the infrequency of repaired part orders:

[SWIGIN]

That is a 1942 13'' lathe.

Those other letters in the bed have nothing to do with decoding it. South Bend only stamped numbers in the bed up untill right after the war.

Post war bed serial numbers have letters and that is what the break down you posted is for.

I don't know who stamped those letters in the bed but they aren't a part of the lathes serial number, but they might mean it was used in the war effort.

[SWIGIN]

I decided awhile ago I wanted to add some roller thrust bearings to my lathe spindle since it just has a steel spacer that rubs against the rear bearing for thrust. This generates a lot of friction and heat when you are pushing against the spindle like when you drill or use a center.

so I ordered a few of these from MSC, they are 1 1/8 ID and are rated for something like 5000 rpm and thousands of pounds of thrust so they should hold up fine.


Then, after i ordered those i found a 1929 south bend lathe head on ebay that was being sold in pieces. So i thought why not add my roller thrust bearings to that head and just plop it on since i really don't want to mess up my original parts. There are 2 huge modern improvements the 1929 head has that mt 1922 head don't have.

Here is a shot of my PITA back gear engagement bolt. You don't have a lot of room to get to it and it is a square head so you never have a great angle to get the wrench on it. And this is without the guard on!


Here is a shot of the ''new'' 1929 design. It is a simple pin with a spring that you just pull out and slide up or down to engage the back gear.


Notice how mint the 1929 spindle is...like new.


The next thing I hated about the original head was the square headed bolt that held the reverse lever in place. Again, Major PITA to get a wrench on and just not very handy.


The 1929 head uses 3 holes to locate the positions for the reverse lever and with a squeeze of the handle you just go to the setting you want....simple.


Here is 2 shots of the 1929 lever that I did not win off ebay. I got way out bid but i got every thing else that came with the head so it looks like I'm making or modifying a lever to work now. ( I saved these pics to use to make my new lever)





I also got the new speed chart installed today




I'm tired..........lol

[SWIGIN]

Today i made a new compound gear to lower my feed rate. I always thought the feeds were a tad to fast with the stock gear.

So I bought a 80 tooth and a 27 tooth gears off ebay and made a new hub for them to ride on then I bolted them together to make a compound gear. This is FAR harder then it sounds to get them to run 100% true, I got lucky and got them to run true the first try. But i had to tighten the counter sunk allen bolts in the right order to get them to be true.

New one on the left.....old one on the right


counter sunk allen bolts


I ended up putting felt in the keyways of the new gear and I drilled an oil hole from the little gear into the keyway down at a 45 degree angle to feed oil to them. the hole just sticks out past the washer.


Had to make a new decal