1922 south bend 9'' lathe restore ......New stuff

[SWIGIN]

Well, it took over a month to track down all the parts but i got the ''new'' 1929 head together for the most part. I found that lever I needed on ebay, it's off a 1937 9'' south bend but it fits the 1929 head perfect.

I even added a ball oiler in the oil fill tube of the lever to keep chips out.






Here is where I put those roller thrust bearings. Back then they just used thick steel (over 1/4'') thrust washers and they would slowly ware out the bronze bushing ends. The bronze bushing you see here now has those roller bearings I posted above on each side.



I can tighten the take up nut as tight as I want now and it has no drag! The way they had it you had to leave .0005-.001 end play to allow for expansion from the heat those steel washers gave off. It should cut nicer now without the end play.

[Vealmonkey]

This thread never ceases to amaze me. I hope to see your "baby" one day. What you've done with this is pretty amazing. You probably have people over on the South Bend forum planning field trips to your shop. People don't realize how many machines like yours actually helped to build the weapons of war or their components in WW2. And to continue to actually improve upon the original design with later original parts is a testiment to the original designers and engineers of the South Bend lathe. And of course to your dedication and passion to your lathe.

[SWIGIN]

Thanks Pat but it will soon be time to cover this head with oil and chips....lol

I like to clean things up but I'm not afraid to use them. Like I say, they make paint everyday.


On a side note if anyone wants any machining done or parts made just shoot me a PM. Gotta scuff some paint off this thing sooner or later..lol

[SWIGIN]

I don't know if anyone is still reading this but for you guys with lathes you need to make one of these spiders.





It goes on the left end of the spindle and it is used to help keep long pieces from floping around when turning. I threw in a 8 foot length of 1/2'' brass ( at least 6 foot hanging out of the spindle) and it never flopped or whipped around.

I took the spider off and bumped the lathe on for a second and the brass rod was whipping in a 2 foot circle!!

worth the time to make one of these simple tools.

[Dirtcrasher]

We use to lay one about 6' away for some stuff, Just a piece of crappy pipe.

Stupid bandsaw was always broke after some meathead ruined the top wheel..........

Sticking out the other end, I had a 12" long piece of .375 sticking out and it got me good! I hit that brake quick, but it whacked me a few times!!

I'll have some pics up soon of my project.

[SWIGIN]

It's been awhile but i got some new to me tooling I had to show you guys. I was going to buy a new MT2 3/4'' drill bit since I have had no luck with my 1/2'' shank 3/4'' bit and I have used the MT bits for years at HREs shop and know they cut great. Well i snagged these off Ebay for the price of 1 3/4'' MT import bit and these are all USA made!

7 total 3/4'' down to 3/8'', the few main sizes that are missing I have in standard bits so now I'm set up to 3/4''. If any of you guys with smaller lathes have trouble with chatter using larger drill bits, try a MT bit. These drill so nice and are far more rigid then normal chuck type bits.

[Vealmonkey]

Does this mean you are all set up to do Ascot heads now? LOL

[Dirtcrasher]

^ They seem to be quite a bit of work but SWIGIN obviously isn't afraid of a challenge!!

[SWIGIN]

Does this mean you are all set up to do Ascot heads now? LOL

My spidy senses tell me some one is hinting they want a Ascot 350x motor..........lol

[Vealmonkey]

It was one thing to read your thread when you were modding the head for your 350x engine, but to see it in person. You know this is the kind of stuff that I dig on. And until you got the 110 out, you noticed I didn't stray too far away from that head or cylinder. I'm really looking forward to you getting the rest of that done and seeing what that engine will do. I know you have alot of time in that head, but it was just so clean looking. That engine is meant for your quad isn't it? Imagine that in a 350x trike?????

[SWIGIN]

Yes, it is for my RX, that motor would destroy a stock trike or quad frame in no time.

[randycasting]

I have the same apron you do and I am trying to clean it and lossen some stuck parts. I am just about done dissasembling mine but I am having trouble with the star knob/clutch gear removal. I have the knob off, cone shaped clutch out and the threaded rod pulled out. What remains of this is a large hex shaped nut with a whole in it on the operator side and on the inside is the two gears with the two clutch alignment pins recessed on the out most gear. This is where I am stuck. The outside nut spins with some effort and spins the remaining gears attached to it. I need to pull these parts off of the apron but I don't see any set srews, threads, pins, or any reason why the gears would be so fixed to the front nut. Does it sound llike they are just stuck or is there something else I need to remove? Thanks for the pictures. I have a 9" lathe and was suprised that most pictures of the C9-10JR model A lathe use a different looking apron. I think mine was built in 1929.
Randy

[SWIGIN]

Pics would help as far as your apron. What is the serial number stamped into the right end of the bed? I can tell you the exact year of the lathe with that number.

[randycasting]

Thanks for the response. I will get a picture tonight. I am beginning to think I have a franken lathe. The serial number is in the 4700 which would make it 1929, yet the Model "A" gear box doesn't look that old. It appears South Bend started using a lever with detent holes after the 1930's. The bed looks ancient but the carriage and apron are of the type used on the 9" in the 1920's and later on the 11" lathe, but not on the 9" lathes of the 1930's and 40's.. The apron looks exaclty like in your pictures. The lathe uses standard V belts which leads me to believe that the head and motor mount are not all that old. The selector lever on the apron does not have detent holes but has a knob with a tapered end which locks into the curved slot. I will look again but the problem I see with this is it's not clear where the three positions are for apron/crossfeed drive. Once everythig is free and cleaned I can always mark these. Everything comes off very easy and the lathe has been well taken care of except for the paint. If I can get the gears from the star knob arbor apart I can find out what is causing them to bind. All the other gears turn and engage freely and are like new.

Randy

[randycasting]

Oh, In case your not sure what pictures show a carriage like mine it's post #25 of this discussion.
Randy