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Thread: 250R suspension options

  1. #1
    Groundworx's Avatar
    Groundworx is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    250R suspension options

    I have a 85 250R. I went out riding this afternoon. I took a very small jump. Probably didn't get 12 inches off the ground. When I landed, I bottomed out, front and back. I normally do not jump it at all. I am weighing out my options on suspension fixes. Are there a set of forks off a CR or something that will bolt on or should I just have these re valved and rebuilt to suit my wieght. What about the rear shock. I know there are tons of companies out there that can do the rear shock. Would a shock off a late model 400 or 450 swap over. I thought the rear was a little weak, but didn't think the front was. I am 250 lbs so I am sure the original suspension wasn't designed for my weight. Any suggestions.
    Many quads for sale. 400EXs, Z400, 450s ect.

  2. #2
    Brad200X's Avatar
    Brad200X is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I believe you still can buy a new Works rear shock for these still, if your willing to pay for it. As for the front, you'll have to try a different weight oil. I don't know the details of these oil changes though, as I weigh 125# so its never been an issue.
    Rides I own:
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    '85 KX125(vintage racer. Technically it was a practice bike)
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  3. #3
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    want to keep tabs on this, I am in the same boat with my 86 R
    I actually considered cutting the fenders, but seems like a cheap fix that will not solve anything

  4. #4
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    I think you can get progressive suspension front springs for them still. Check Dennis Kirk out.

  5. #5
    Groundworx's Avatar
    Groundworx is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    To me, the rear shock looks shorter than the ones on the quads. If I could get one off a 400ex or 450r to bolt up, it would probably raise the rear. Due to my wieght, that might be good under riding condition.
    Many quads for sale. 400EXs, Z400, 450s ect.

  6. #6
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    you can make a 400ex shock work I have one on my 85, but I also have all 450R rear swinger parts as well

  7. #7
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    Before you go spending money, have you tried increasing the preload yet? You can preload the forks using spacers made from 1" PVC. The rear shock has plenty of room for preload adustment. Crank it down and see how it works.

    I spent a good amount of money on new suspension components a while back. Haven't had a chance to test them out yet but for the last couple years I had just been running my old stuff with a good amount of preload and it worked fairly well that way. Now I have a freshly rebuilt rear shock (rebuild by sblt500r here on the forums, probably the best deal around). I also have a progressive rear shock spring on it that I purchased here along with progressive front springs that I bought from the same person. Not to mention the new swingarm. Should be pretty sweet once I get out there and get it dialed in but it wasn't cheap.

  8. #8
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    has the suspension ever been rebuilt??? $200 for the forks, $150 for the shock and do wonders. I do mx with stock front suspension, it handles it fine. I did some mx with the stock rear also, it handled decent. I now have a elka shock for the rear.

  9. #9
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    I have an 86 with rebuilt front forks (progressive brand springs) and a rebuilt rear shock with heavier oil (stock form). They hold up fine to this 250 pound MX'er. You need to have them redone - or pony up for suspension upgrades. You can swap a 450 rear in there - but you need to weld in a new top shock mount - no easy task for the back yard builder.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by clutchcargo View Post
    I think you can get progressive suspension front springs for them still. Check Dennis Kirk out.
    Yes they are still available. I highly recommend them for the the forks. Atc-Tim nailed it. Listen to him. His bike is set up perfect.
    3-85 ATC 70
    86 ATC 250R
    86 WETBIKE
    01 KX250
    2011 KAW SXR800- 35YR EDITION
    05 HERITAGE/SPRINGER/SOFTTAIL

  11. #11
    Groundworx's Avatar
    Groundworx is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I have cranked down on the rear preload. Helped a lot, but still isn't right. I will probably just send the rear shock off. My buddy owns a shop here in town and he can do the front. He just doesn't like doing rears. I was hoping there was a shock off another quad that might bolt on. I don't usually jump or anything like that. I am tired of it bouncing around though whenever I hit a bump or something.
    Many quads for sale. 400EXs, Z400, 450s ect.

  12. #12
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    Theres all kinds of thigns can be done with the stock suspension before its really necessary to can all the stock equipment and adapt stuff from other models. 9 times out of 10 your gonna end up with something worse then well turned stock parts anyways, really.

    Have you tried adjusting the compression knob on the rear shock canister, as even a starting point?

    Your suspension sounds like it needs first a foremost a good servicing, and then if its still not sufficient for you, some upgrades. For about $500, you can get a complete PEP guts revalve kit for the rear shock and a spring if need be ($350, at any PEP dealer) which I've done and makes a HUGE difference. Its just as good as ANY bolt-in aftermarket shock on the market. And then the Progressive springs for the front forks are about $80. And then if you want to take it even another step further, get Race Tech "Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators" for the front forks as well. It allows you to dial in the compression dampening like you can with the rear shock and really gives you a whole new level of adjust ability. See, the front fork designs, from the factory, relies A WHOLE LOT on the spring rates in the forks, and not necessarily the valving in the forks for the oil and fluid. They don't because they are cheaper and easier to manufacture that way. The rear shocks DO rely on valving more then spring rates, and that's why they always seem to work better.

  13. #13
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    Hey Billy, how does that adjustment work with the gold valve kits anyway? I assume it's an internal adjustment that requires at least partial disassembly to make an adjustment?

  14. #14
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    Yeah, some, but not bad. Really all you gotta do is pop the caps off, and pull the springs out. Then I have a little thing that looks like a choke knob out of an old car or truck on a long cable housing with a little wire grabber thing on the end, and you just drop that down in the fork tube, and grab the top of the valve, and lift it right out. It just sits down on top of the internal dampening rod down in the bottom half of the fork.

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