stainless bolt kit pros/cons

[longbedGTs]

Ok, Ive read through 3 pages of threads about these stainless bolt kits and the general concensus is that they look good, may not contain the correct length/pitch bolts, and are not advised on high stress areas(footpegs, motor mounts, ect..). With that in mind, do you think it is still worthwhile to get a kit like this?
Im looking at fasternerguys kit on eBay and it seems like a decent price, and as much as Id like the stainless steel look, I dont think looks are as important as reliability. Thoughts?
Could the OEM bolts be cleaned up to look stainless?
BTW, this is for my 350X.

[ScottZJ]

Well if its like some kits I have seen and bought, you almost need to purchase 2 of them for all bolts. Now that might not be the case for all trikes, but it was for the yammer I got.

[Brad200X]

I'm really happy with my Fastnerguy bolt kit, and I would say that unless your OEM hardware is rusted real bad, OEM is probably stronger. I know shawn72 blasted his hardware and it looks really good. Probably not as shiney as SS but still awesome. I had no issues of thread pitch with my kit, although it did not come with crank case bolts, even though it was advertised that it did. I emailed him and he said he'd send me them, but I never received them. BTW I ordered the 81-84 250R kit. I'd say only buy the kit if your missing a lot of hardware, or if your hardware is junk, or if your building a custom machine and you need that extra bling to set it off. My $.02

EDIT. My kit didn't come with the triple tree hardware,(wasn't supposed to come with it) and the engine mounting bolts weren't long enough.

[chris200x]

Ive been beating on my 350x weekly.. Havent had one problem with my SS kit. Only place I didn't use them is the footpegs (not included anyways) and the rear suspension.

[Dirtcrasher]

They work great just for the corrosion resistant properties alone....

Most bolts are 75c and up so a kit for 100$ is a good deal in my book!

[Daddio]

Factory JAPANESE bolts are the best, anything aftermarket is probly going to be of lower quality or plain old chinese junk.

[3WW Star-Yamahondaman]

Daddio Hit it right on the Head !!
most of the Stainless bolt's are "303" ... 800 Tensil Strenth ...
the 304 and 316L are the same but have more Nickel ... (NO RUST)
the grade 8-12 on the other hand are MUCH Stronger,such as the ARP Bolt's that they use in them Race Car's and such... they come in the 1.25 Pitch that Everybody need's for the Foot Peg Bolt's ,ETC. they are 17,000 Tensil..but are VERY Expensive ... 6 buc's each for the Peg Bolt's..
JEG'S have them Bolt's and also ALLOYBOLTZ.com... they are 15 min's from me in Ruskin,Fla. The one's i make are for "show" ... 303 Stainless..
the only thing about Stainless is you have to be "Nice" to it ..Grease and Never Sieze on the Thread's....... NO IMPACT Wrench...........

[iceman atc]

Idk any thing about the stainless, but I took my factory bolt heads to the wire wheel on the bench grinder, poke em in a card board box, and clear coat em.(not to bad)

[oscarmayer]

i posted up on anotehr thread where to get japanese bolts cheap! go search!!! :P

[3WW Star-Yamahondaman]

Idk any thing about the stainless, but I took my factory bolt heads to the wire wheel on the bench grinder, poke em in a card board box, and clear coat em.(not to bad)

been there too Brother ... also painted them Black and Cooked em in the Oven

[oscarmayer]

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/s...ad.php?t=92888

[seadoo650]

I've just cleaned up the factory bolts and used polish on them. They turn out real nice. I'm not sure about long term though. If ya don't have the coin for a SS kit then this is a chaep way for it to look nice.

Here's some from the motor I just did. I figure if they get nasty again, I'll just pull as needed and clean them back up.

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Looks great!!

I've also sandblasted the heads and powdercoated them. I just folded a piece of sheet metal and drilled about 30 holes in it of various sizes.

At least then, when they cool you can put a socket on them and they won't chip!

The clear is a great idea, but it will suffer on the corners of the hex when you tighten them down and soon rust.

I guess the difference may be in WHAT you guys want and WHERE you live. Here in the Northeast, we get all the facets of weather and it shows on our machines. Anything I spraypaint with a color or clear ends up beginning it's rust journey after the first couple of rides.

Wire wheeling is even worse. It looks great when you get done but just a bit of moisture and the rust starts it's evil course. But hey, I've been there and done that! It feels great to make a nasty bolt look nice and bolt it on, but it just doesn't last.

Thats why I jumped onto the PC wagon

My goal is to make my rare, dangerous and extinct trike look great and withstand the test of time

Take that 100$ you spend on bolts x 2 and your set up for powder coating

[honda250sx]

I just spent about $38 bucks COST on all the crankcase bolts for my TRI-Z motor. They were expensive. But I agree. Slant eyes gots goooooood bolts. Hell I work for em'. My machines probably make em!

[Mosh]

Rick I just did that polish thing with Tammy's R. They will rust if they are not hardcoated or cleared.

As for the Fastner guy kits, I have had no problems with them.
The Z kits I have bought have been just about perfect..All the right sizes were there,and I even had left overs.

DO NOT use the shock bolts.They bend easy. Oem is the only way to go with them.

And Ronnie hit the nail on the head. You can get better,but be ready to pay!