OK guys, putting the group collective knowledge to the test here. Lets suppose I want to harden something, like a transmission gear, or shaft, in my shop. What are my options, and courses of action?
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OK guys, putting the group collective knowledge to the test here. Lets suppose I want to harden something, like a transmission gear, or shaft, in my shop. What are my options, and courses of action?
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Roostin Away
when I was younger I read that you could harden Gm turbo 350 Intermediate spraggs In your oven. I think the article I read was In a car craft magazine
Last edited by Jason Hall; 04-10-2009 at 09:30 PM.
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That would be very helpful Jason, thanks!:
Power User
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What are you trying to do? I'm sure I could get It done CHEAP!!! This part of the world Is kinda slow because of the Economy.
83 ATC 60-R Cr60 converted with Zinger parts.
83 ATC 70.
83 Tri zinger
ATC 85-R Cr85 engine on shortened 86-R frame.
ATC450AF
86 310-R Drag racer
440 snowmobile powered custom built.
87 Cr 500 Converted to Drag racer
Power User
Roostin Away
buy a "curing oven" or whatever its called like my shop teacher had and cook it for a few hours, you can heat it up and drop it into some motor oil too but that will make it "fragile", yet very hard i think....
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Heat it with a torch and put it in oil a few times... Acts as more of a case hardening... wont make it brittle... We have done it a few times in our shop... Not a heavy duty enough procedure for something like the wheels on our english wheel with a hardness near 55, What are you trying to harden?
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+1 on case hardening with heat and oil. To get it deeper, I've preheated hard steel and then welded hard surface rod (very hard to do without undercut or cracking) to it then turned, milled it to size. Beets
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For the sake of discussion, lets say a connecting rod
I have no idea on the hardness scale what that would need to be. I have heard of "oil quenching" before, but didn't really know wht it was before you guys mentioned it here, thats very interesting. So if the whole part was cherry red for a bit, and then threw it in a bucket of oil (wonder what weight and viscosities, how that effects it? I'd assume that thicker stuff would be a longer cool down time?) thats an effective way to harden a part?
Roostin' Away
Arm chair racerRoostin Away
Oil quenching is a great way to harden a part with out making it brittle like when you quench with water. If you want to case harden something you need to heat it for a length of time in carbon. I can dig out a book from last semester and find formulas if need be for this kind of stuff.
In your case with a connecting rod I would heat it to a dull orange, not cherry red and dunk it in USED motor oil. The used oil has much more carbon in it and this acts like case hardening.
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I thought freezing engine internals was batter. That is what I am having done when get get started on my 7.3 twin turbo biuld.
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Power User
Roostin Away
Work hardening is another way to harden steel. Get yourself some basic info on blacksmithing. I love working with metal. My specialty is sheetmetal.
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Here you go Billy..
http://www.google.com/url?sa=U&start...adkkkOAVK0giQw
Careful how you heat up the item you want to harden. If you don't heat it evenly you can induce some twisting and other nasty things.
If you really want to make something special, harden it and then send it out for cryo treatment.
From experience, Cryo treatment works all by itself too. Story to follow..
Several years ago a friend of mine raced a highly modified E Production Mazda Miata in the SCCA on a national level. Very competitive field with very restrictive rules on what you can and can not do. One of the areas they restricted heavily was brakes...(go figure, such a dumb area to restrict). Anyway, he used to go through a set of rotors every other race and TWO sets of rotors every time they ran Sebring....
After trying everything else we sent the rotors out to get Cryo treated. After treating the rotors they would go an entire season....and still not be beyond usable.
Anyway, that's my contribution there Billy. The crystal structure of various types of alloys is very unique between them all. Read as much as you can before testing anything out on an expensive part!!
Good luck!
-BFC
'86 250R
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I appreciate all the input guys, hopefully I might get to put this to the test sometime soon
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i just read about this in my machinist book..... i'll post what it says when im not on the ps3
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It depends on the metal. The big difference is how you cool it down. some metals you need to quench in water, some in oil, and some just air cool. If you have a metal that needs to be water quenched and you air cool it it will not harden. it might actually aneal it and be softer. If you water cool a metal that needs to be air cooled you WILL crack it(been there, done that, spent the money).
For something as important as a rod I would go to a pro. Also, would you want to harden a rod. I would think it would break faster because it compresses and stretches every cycle. Maybe case harden it but like stated before, that needs to be packed in carbon and air tight.
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