reliabilty?

[adamd]

how reliable is a 6mm stroker with a .50 over bore in a 200x ? i also am considering a oil cooler setup to make it run a liltle cooler also would a extended dipstick side cover help it run cooler?

thanks

[factoryX]

once you bore out your 200x motor, your looking for more problems.

[atctim]

once you bore out your 200x motor, your looking for more problems.

There won't be any problems boring it out - what do you think people just replace the whole jug once it needs bored???? I don't understand your comment factoryx.

Not sure on reliability of the stroker. Will this require a new crank - if so - and you do all the bottom end bearings - I see no reliability issues what so ever.

[Dirtcrasher]

.50 must mean 1/2MM or .020" and I don't see any reliability issues but when you go larger the cylinder wall gets thin. Someone here had offered sleeves that had a thicker wall thickness than stock.

It seems like stroking the motor seems to create more of a time bomb, but it's also where you get some great gains!!

[adamd]

ok dc my pistions is a 65.50 mm stock is 65. mm so thats .50mm over right? the stroker is a 6mm stroker if i figure right thats a 215cc motor correct?

i dont understand fatory x ether.

i know were a new powroll stroker is seting on a shelf if i got it i am gona put new bearings seals basicly new everything except cases and tranny and they r in great shape i dont ride the bike a whole lot at the most a weekend a month my other ones is the stock bike i ride most of the time

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Just from what I've read, stroking an otherwise very reliable motor compromises it.

But, if it were my bi-weekend warrior and I had access to the parts for a fair cost - I'd do it in a heartbeat!!

I'd love to build a stroker motor for the 86/87 200X but they aren't a shelf item and it could run me 500$ or so just to stroke the crank. I'm sure at some point I'll end up doing it though as I have 7 motors to expirement with

As far as "FactoryX" goes, your post does say .5 or what can be perceived as 1/2" overall increase in diameter or 1/4" off of the wall, maybe thats what he was thinking??

But, from what I've read even a 1.5MM overbore doesn't seem to be an issue.

It does depend on each models design and sleeve thickness though. Heck my 250SX is 2MM or about .080 thousandths overbore. It's still an SX though

[Brad200X]

OK now I'm confused. I really don't think an extra half MM in piston diameter is gonna make a difference as far as HP, or reliability. Somebody enlighten me. Are you gonna run a 12:1 piston?

[Dirtcrasher]

Why are you confused bro??

Boring cylinders NEVER makes a huge difference. Thats why newer 250cc motors offer 290 kits with a different cylinder etc etc.... Even a 2MM overbore does not make a 250 a 300, thats a misconception ALLOT of uniformed people make.

Power is made with stroking, compression, porting (not by you and Mr Dremel), exhaust and carburetor changes......

And believe me , I have ALLOT to learn before I'd even attempt to take on a motor like SEADOO has; he's not giving up any secrets either

[Brad200X]

Thanks for clearing that up. I totally agree with you. I mean I've got a 2mm over stock piston in my 250R, and that only adds up 262 CCs, and that probably added a fraction of a HP. I was just confused why 1/2 MM was taken so seriously by some.

[factoryX]

I was talking about common people just boring out the stock cylinder and leaving stock parts in. Also, if you have a high comp. motor the kick start on the 83-85 like to break the return spring or shatter the kick start gear. Get ready to replace every thing on the top end.

[adamd]

ok
heres what i have so far powroll valves and titanium retainers, a norris cam (topend hi rev cam) 65.50 mm bore stock compression. very open cobra style pipe.

i posibly have a extended dip stick side cover coming to hold more oil if not im planing on building a oil cooler setup. or both
i can get a powroll 6mm stroker from a friend at a decent price.
im thinking ether 10.25:1 or 12:1 not sure yet got some plans.
and im looking for a lectron carb or just a bigger carb. proly a xr
i am thinging about a 200e head for the decompressin switch. this should help the kicker gear a great deal correct?

right now the bikes lacking power with the cam and springs on stock compresion. i think this would cause that right?

this bike porbally will not get rode more than 3 or 4 times a month. it alredy is inneed of a kicker gear geting replaced soon as i decided what im gona go stroker or not. i may just leave the stroker and go with everything else.

[factoryX]

well if you go with that set up I'd stroke it... if you use 12:1 your looking at race gas, 10.25:1 is premium with no ethanol.

[Vealmonkey]

Performance is a combo of factors. The big thing is, what do you plan on doing with the trike. If it is for racing or wide open throttle alot of the time, you build accordingly. If it is meant for tight woods and pleasure riding, then you build accordingly. No need to build a high compression high rev stroker big bore, for something you harldy ever twist the throttle wide open on. Believe me, you won't have any fun riding a trike with an engine that is over built. Tons of problems.
If this is not a competition trike, I would personally not use over a 10.5 piston. No need to use special fuels and cost yourself lots of extra money for nothing. Also, no need to cam it for the max, if your not running it to the max, it will only hurt the engine in the long run. If you are not running the engine hard or running in very hot conditions, then there is really no use to run an oil cooler. If you really want more power, than you should really look into a trike with a bigger engine, like a 350x. You can build a 200x to make alot more power than stock, but it comes with 2 prices. Cost and reliability. The people that raced 200xs', they built the engines to the max and they rebuilt the engines often. If you are not looking for a maintenance queen, then I would stay more towards stock or mild upgrades. It's your ego and your wallet, but alot of people build their trikes for conditions they never see and they run like total pigs. You are almost better off running stock, but making sure everything you have is fresh and working properly. Make sure your valves are seating properly and nicely ground of nicely lapped in valve seats. A timing chain that isn't stretched all to heck. A piston and rings that are nice and fresh. A bore that is in round and has been properly honed to have the proper cross pattern so the rings can seat and work as needed. An oil pump that is within proper specs and not worn to the point where it will barely have any oil pressure. Fresh gaskets that have been properly torqued. A decent tune up with fresh oil and spark plugs. Bearings that aren't dragging so badly that it actually causes drag on your drive train. Those are the things that will make a trike run really well. Performance parts aren't always what they are cracked up to be if you other systems aren't up to snuff. You'd be amazed at what some people will spend big money on and their drive chains are rusty and binding up or their wheel bearings are so bad the axles rock back and forth or brake systems aren't properly working. Some, more than some I should say, just don't get it. In these economic times, spend your money wisely.

[adamd]

well i dont want to build a stock bike i want a lil more i have 2 diferent cams a norris and a kenny harmon i havent herd alot bout ether of these cams for the 200x i only know of one other norris for a 200x, im gona stay with the bore i have now considering it has maybe 10 hrs on it. other than that and a cam n springs its stock and bout 15 mph slower than my stock bike some of this i know at the point in time is the 18in tires vs the 22s on my stock bike runing 2 1 tooth biger in front with the 18in tires i know is slower but its lacking power all around. i do need bearings but they have been ordered and my front breaks r perfect and no back breaks looking for a caliper mount everything else on the bikes fine.

so would you say go with the 10.25:1 and no stroker and wich cam?
and a xr carb. the motor was rebuilt by a good friend of mine before i got it with a new crank piston rings fresh bore few other random things.
i ride a resonible amount wide open. i would like it to run around 60 or a lil more wide open. my stocker with a pipe runs 55ish wide open

i want to make the bike close to how it was originaly a built flat tracker considering i have 90% of the flat track parts cut back tank no steer stops, +6 i think durable axle, 18in armstrong tires, and soon to be back on it the sundahl (spelling) low pro fenders
also the guy im geting the plastic back from says he has a 20ish tooth rear sproket that was on it but he changed it. was told it would run with a close to a 85 350x when it was a built flat track bike.
i raced with the same 350x on my stocker just to see how much he left me by n i got smocked when he hit 4th i think n he was ltn me top out before he ran it hard

[Nick_R_23]

Boring cylinders NEVER makes a huge difference. Thats why newer 250cc motors offer 290 kits with a different cylinder etc etc.... Even a 2MM overbore does not make a 250 a 300, thats a misconception ALLOT of uniformed people make.

This. Dont stock cylinders sit a few cc's under what their supposed number is anyway, so that when its on its final bore it reaches that number? IE your 250cc engine is really 246cc on a stock bore, so its last bore brings it to 250cc.

-Nick