Why do people get hassled for using auto paint or especially spray paint?

[vrswiss]

Someone spray bombed the Tri Z I just bought bigtime. Plastic, frame, motor, overspray every where. luckily they did no prep so I was able to more less wipe it all off with a little paint remover. The funny thing is all the plastic and factory paint is in pretty good shape and looks much better than the hack jog they did. If I ever strip this thing to the frame I'll have it painted by a buddy of mine who does vintage car restoration. I know he would do it right and for the right price.

[BOB MARLIN]

I would love to powder coat everything. But I live in So. Cal. where everything
seems to be at least double the cost than you guys are getting in other parts of the U.S.A. It costs about $400 to get a frame done here.

[racerxxx]

Its not just the fact that its out of a can, its how its used the preparation. And TYPICALLY, if someone 's something, they do not do prep thats even half assed.

They don't remove all the frame components (chain guides, nuts, bolts, seat latches, etc) They dont adequately degrease/clean the frame, and they dont adequate remove the old finish.

QUICK=not good!

A pain job CAN be done right, absolutely, but its got to be prepped right.

Same as $300 a gallon automotive paint being sprayed from a HVLP paint gun. PREP, PREP, PREP! I've seen so much stuff on here that is painted right over wires, grease, dirt, frame components, its just really ,really dis-tasteful. And that sort of behavior is why, in general, paint jobs have a bad stigma.

I agree it's all in the prep work, if it's not clean it looks like you have an 80 Grit frame, also take all the chit off and do it right and your bomb job will look top notch.

Also for all those who say PC is too expensive, look into doing it yourself. You can get a kit from eastwood for around 140 with some powder, go to a local appliance store and ask for an old oven, that's what I did. I have under 200 into my stuff and I can bake some decent size parts, no frames but while I'm still getting use to it all eventually I'll build a bigger oven for that. Here are some of my first parts I did:
http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/s...400#post721400

Really turned out nice, I do also have access to an industrial bead blast cabinet which makes it all that much better. You really can get into it cheap and get quality results, there is a learing curve, but there are forums for that as well and you can troll and learn, there are also books on PC as well. Personally I am too economically astute(cheap), to pay someone to do something for me when I know I can do it myself, plus it's another feather in my cap. If it fits in my oven I'll never , or base clear another part. Spraybomb can add up, and base/clear is pricey, so is single stage, but everyone has their own financial obligations and limitations, so to each his own, and if you post em' up and get ridiculed about it, don't worry about it, it only has to be good enough for one person:YOU!

[Dammit!]

I've done both and Honestly, i prefer cheapo qualty spray can over anythign else unless it's a show trike. i've had power chip and hold moisture in then cause rusting. you can't just sand the chip spots and touch up a power job. and power cracks just like emanel does. using some good spray can auto paint works wonders and you can sand and touch up chipped spots.

maybe if I was riding only soft sand dunes, then yea power, but I ride trails with sand STONE and trees. power and enamel just don't hold up at all. So i think it depends on where your riding, but i do know painting can hodl up to any condiftions and if there is a chip it will be easy to fix before rusting occures.

if I build a show queen, then yea power and some stuff, but even then I an not sure i'll do it over spray booth painting because pwoer does tend to chip and crack easier. I've seen a lotta guys get power then re-tap the hols in the threads to clean then and end up flaking or chipping off the power around th ehead of the hole. Not good in my books. spend hundreds for chips and crakcs. no way!

As i said i think it depends on what you are looking for and where you ride and how much.
anyway just my 2 cents.

What is this power you speak of?

If you're saying cheapo spray paint is tougher than powder, you must have used someone that didn't know what they're doing. There's no way spray paint is going to be tougher than a proper PC job no matter where you ride. PC is just like paint in that everything depends on the prep work though. Bad prep work = bad PC.

[chris200x]

All I ask is that people stop spraying EVERY DAMN THING on a trike. Usually without even bothering to take it apart, much less clean and prep anything.

The guys that complain are the ones that had to... at some point deal with someones halfassed work. Been there done that. and those guys that paint plastics.... well lets not even go there!

its all in the prep work fellas. MY spraybomded 350x is holding up great!!!

[NE250r]

Well, you know its bad when you use a ACE hardware paintbrush and exterior latex paint to do your frame..... ohhh the memories of my first 200x....

But in all seriousness if you do anything correctly it can turn out looking good, the point is, will it last? I've painted 2 frames with it, with numerous hours of cleaning,sandblasting, and prepwork, and has still busted off in the first ride. When I had a frame PC'ed it took a POUNDING and still held up like a champ! But if you are on a budget and your frame is all faded and rusty, clean it up and spray it, its obviously going to look better than before. To each his own, I'm not gonna knock anyone's work. The way I break frames and bend forks, its cheaper for me to leave it alone and throw performance parts at it.

[oscarmayer]

i'm not saying tuffer, just easier to maintain. and it doesn't chip or crack off as easly as powder. + after 2 years of riding my will still look good whiel you got whie spots showing :P cause i can TOUCH it up baby!!!!

[Dammit!]

Whoever told you that you can't touch up PC is wrong. PC is still paint. You can touch it up. I've used automotive touch up paint on it. You don't have to apply a spot of touch up as powder. If you match the colors up you can't even tell.

I have parts on my R that were PC'd 3-4 years ago that still look great with not a hint of chipping that have never been touched up. Try it for yourself. Rattle can one hub and PC the other one and see how they hold up. Maybe I'll do that next dune season. I have an extra set of R hubs in the garage.

[DeePa]

what kawi v honda debate?

i just feel youre a fool without any common sense and waste precious board space with your stupidity, thats all...

[Hoosier_Daddy]

what kawi v honda debate?

i just feel youre a fool without any common sense and waste precious board space with your stupidity, thats all...

Isn't that cute, you're still trying. How old are you? 15? Even if you're 55 you still act 15. Nobody here actually care about ya, they just put up with you. Same as me from this point fourth. You have nothing to offer. It funny when you give a dimwit a computer how much of a tough guy they become.

I didn't want to let the cat out of the bag but i am going to have to post that picture of you that I took last we met.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Back on topic, so let me get this straight.

the problems with spray paint is.......

1. It is assumed that everyone who spray paints never preps properly thuis it is always crappy?
2. Because many have bought an atc that some idiot spray painted poorly it means all spray paint is bad?
3. Since you've spent hundreds on fenders and upgrades, it means it's mandatory to stare at your beloved trike for months longer just so you can save your pennies for blast/powder instead of doing a good quality auto/spray bomb so you can enjoy it?

Am I missing any?

Bottom line is, I used cheap auto paint on my 350X frame because it is a rider. It is going to get riden and if it scratches, I can easily touch it up. I'm not making a show queen. I will make a thread on how to make an HONEST budget build trike when i finish assembling. No, not everybody will agree or like it but I'm sure many will appreciate it.


My Tecate is my baby. I will probably spend years on the Tecate because I will make it perfect. It will be riden but it will be more of a garage queen and THAT is where I personally feel it's worth taking time and spending the money to make it perfect. I don't feel like my 350X rider has to be held to those standards.

[chris200x]

You know hoosierdaddy.. why not save yourself all the headaches and just add deepa to your ignore list. It takes two freakin seconds dude. then we all wont have to sit here and read the nonsense.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

You know hoosierdaddy.. why not save yourself all the headaches and just add deepa to your ignore list. It takes two freakin seconds dude. then we all wont have to sit here and read the nonsense.

But, I'm having fun with it.

I'll make you all a deal, I won't respond to him anymore then he'll just go away. How's that?

[Dirtcrasher]

Back on topic:

I love auto paint with a hardner, but it's expensive to have primer, reducer, paint, hardner and thinner unless you use it often as a hobby or your job, like SYKO. I'd do more auto paint if I could, but I don't do enough to deal with the spoil/throw away factor.

Thats why I went to powder coating. Free oven from C-list, a 120$ PC gun and powder is very inexpensive. Now all you have to do is strip it and clean it with acetone or sandblast it.

They have small blast cabinets for 100$ or so at Harbor Freight that work just fine. If you don't have a compressor then your already having difficulties in not having a 1/2" impact gun and the air nozzle that I use CONSTANTLY to clean carbs etc etc.

MY HONEST INVESTMENT IS THE FOLLOWING:

Free oven from Craigslist
PC gun 120$
Powder, plugs and tape 100$
Sandblasting cabinet (large) 250$
6HP compressor with a 33 gallon tank 199$ on sale with free air gun, ratchet and blow gun. I actually sold my old compressor for 175$

So, I personally have about 700$ invested. I'm not young anymore either and 700$ is less than a weeks take home pay for me (when I work ), which can be a HUGE factor for allot of people.

You don't need a huge compressor, you may already have one and the smaller blast cabinets strip all your parts just as well but may take a bit longer.

I have used my air compressor for hundreds of hours in hundreds of repairs, they are a MUST HAVE for all garages so I really don't feel that I can include it in the initial PC investment cost.

I've PC'd 3 motors (for free) but I could have easily charged 125$ to do them each. A few small parts for friends nets you 50$. Just about every single bracket and small part on my 200X and 350X are PC'd and hold up great in the rocks, snow and constantly changing terrain we have here in the Northeast.

There are guys baking in 30$ table top ovens using paint stripper, a wire wheel, acetone, a 75$ gun and getting the same results as I do, just on a smaller scale.

I'll say it again, If your seats worth 100$, tires worth 300$, fenders another 300$ and an exhaust worth 150$ (amongst all the other crap we blow HUNDREDS of dollars on) how can you apply an inferior finish?

But, then again, I'm still talking to some people that feel they can "restore" a trike for about 1000$; not in my world guys.......

Don't be afraid of it, I personally WAS afraid of "change" but I couldn't do all that work to only end up with an inferior finish any longer. Look back to my posts 5 years ago, until my 20day build I NEVER posted pictures of things I rebuilt because I didn't like the results. I'd build a motor, overspray carb cleaner on it and it would be ruined.

You guys talking about prep, I respect what your saying. However I don't care if you sandblast it, clean it with lacquer thinner, primer it and coat it with 3 coats of HIGH END KRYLON That finish still cannot resist gas, carb cleaner removes it all, and you graze it with a wrench and it's scratched. NOTHING disappoints me more than to tear something all down and scratch it or strip it off during assembly and jetting.

My powder is NOT perfect, it DOES chip, I cannot slam it with an 8lb and have it hold up..... Thats what they claim, but I am one incestuous prick when it comes to being meticulous and proper curing times etc etc, but I can't match those claims myself. But, now I can post pictures of my work proudly and know that it's the best I can do to preserve my 25yo goodies

Do the best you can guys, but don't do all that work just to make it look good for the photo shoot..........

EDIT - Last but not least. The biggest issue some of you are overlooking is that spray cans do have additives that help them lay flat. But nothing that makes them harden. There is no hardner in spray cans such as with mixed auto paint. When they make a can I can buy off the shelf with something you pull or twist to mix hardner in just before spraying, I'll be all over it for the simplicity and possible durability of the mix.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Once again dirtcrasher makes an awesome post that makes me think hard about the situation. Damn, your good man!!

Going to trike fest dirtcrasher? I'd love to meet you in person. John S says your a good guy.