Pipe Design !!Pictures!! on page 4! Nasty fast.

[BGP]

If you can't find tubing, you can try this place. U-Bends are handy as well.
http://www.aaenperformance.com/snow_exhaust.asp

[Bretmd94]

really interesting stuff in this thread. I am smart enough to know whats going on, but adhd enough that it makes me want to beat my head on the desk.

Both of you have more patience than I (and a lot more brain power). I am interested to see where this goes.

[RubberSalt]

I like, but i have a feeling everything i need is going to be at "The Yard Store". A store here with crap tons of air craft scrap and metal and tubing. It's where i got the material for my reed spacer. air craft grade aluminum, $3 a LB lol. I got a 12mm thick chunk, enough for 5 spacers for $3.41 lol. I got the 18 gauge steel there for $10, 24inch by 48inch. If they don't have it, I'll be calling around.

I'll have to get pics of the inside where i added to the YZ pipe. It's sad seeing the outside, looks like some nasty welds that destroyed it. Then you look inside and are like "DAMN i swear that would have been it for this part". I don't know how it worked, but it did lol

[RubberSalt]

Here are some pictures of the YZ125 pipe, I didn't get a chance to work on it today, possibly tomorrow.







That's 18 gauge steel rolled with my hands and a +a pipe. Arc welded with a Lincoln Electric 220v arc welder. Done at 40 amps with a 6011 Rod.

[BGP]

What is that.. a Noleen Pipe? It's worth a try, the belly is kind of fat for the crank volume on your YT but it should still be ok. Can't wait to see what you think of it. BTW, it does look like absolute garbage! ( Hahahaha! ) You sure you're not adding too much to it? Looks like it'll run in the 6500~7000 rpm range now. You added around 150mm to it right?

[RubberSalt]

I'm actually adding 225mm. It looks like some one cut a chunk out of the belly. That is awesome you recognized the pipe(i think). All i can see is the "leen", the "no" is missing lol. I wish i could work on it today, but i gotta help my brother setup his party. Tomorrow hopefully i can finish it. Fun part is cutting the reflector and changing the angle it's at.

[RubberSalt]

I finished fitting the pipe to the bike yesterday. GOD IT IS NASTY. But it is so beautiful all at once lol. I've taken my dads snap-on camera to it. It really doesn't look bad. There is 1 spot inside the fat part that his a little bubble of slag where i blew through. The rest is good, was grinding everything smooth as i went along.

Been chipping a lot of slag off, who woulda guessed? I do know it leaks, DOES NOT HOLD WATER. I'm going to take some oxy/act and smooth it all out/seal it up.

I haven't quite finished it up yet. Got 1 bracket and need to stick the stinger inside 3-4 inches. Currently, the stinger is about 1 inch from the back of m grab bar. I'm going to have a great day trying to silence this 1 lol.

Been trying to upload pics but the blue tooth is being a pain in the ass.

[RubberSalt]

I able to easily power slide the bike now, i wasn't able to easily before It's running lean as a mofo with this new pipe. Gonna have to take it out to the trails someday and tune it in.

[RubberSalt]

It made a HUUUGE difference, sounds WAY meaner now. Pulls much harder than the original pipe. Power comes on smoothly and evenly, doesn't just hit and when the power came, like the stock pipe.
I can't wait till i make the real thing, be better tuned, smoother welds, probably more segments for smoother contours. This was just a "see if i can do it"

Length is an issue. I took a shorty silencer, choped it in half(well measured first), i ended up bending the stinger a little more and turning the silencer sideways, the fenders are maybe.. 3mm off - gonna have to coat with heat resistance tape or something.

[Dirtcrasher]

You need a mig welder

[Bryan Raffa]

You need a mig welder

ya think.... lol hey you got a welding helmet? cuz it looks like you had your eyes closed on them welds...other than that ,, its cool..thoes bikes were horrably constricted..

[Modding_out]

I'm pretty good with a stick welder and if i may offer some help....

1. buy 6013 or 6011 rods, idk wth your using it's not right
2. use a smaller rod, looks like you used 1/8 inch rod, try 3/32 or 1/16...the 1/16 take some time getting used to, but once you got it your good.
3. increase your amperage, looks like you lowered it to much so you could get away with using 1/8 rod....always match the thickness with the rod and the voltage to the rod.
4. Do not weld over slagg!!!! chip it off any try again; grind it off high spots if applicable..... if you don't the ark will follow the old weld and make your problem worse.


I'm not trying to pick you apart, I'm trying to help you so you don't make the same mistake twice.

[RubberSalt]

You Hit the nail dead center on the head there, Modding out.
Used 6011 1/8th. at 40 amps, i lowered it all the way.

Alright, so i have 18 gauge steel, suggestions on rods? my welder only does AC current with the following amp settings: 40-225 amps.
I'm also gonna try a wider feed on this stuff, i bet I'll have better results.. lol

[Modding_out]

Well 6011 is a deep penetrating rod, it likes to "eat" in to the metal. it's also slightly harder to weld with fore some reason.
6013 would be my personal choice for some thing like this, 6013 puts down allot weld(good for filling saw cuts) strikes an easy ark and stays constant. it's not a deep penetrator though, it kinda melds into the part your welding, but at 18 gauge it's a non issue. 6013 get's picked on allot for being a "newb rod" but I think that's unjustified hate.
there is also 7018 rod with shares attributes of both 6013 and 6011, don't remembered all the details...google it.

As for thickness, try some 3/32 for starters if your not satisfied with the weld quality go with 1/16.

ac current is fine, make your leads are DCAP (or is that dcep? i forget...) and you'll be fine, your buzz box has plenty of juice .

[fabiodriven]

Between the welders, the op's R&D, and the pipe guru, I would have to say I am very impressed with the talent on this site.

Obviously the welds need some work, but you gotta start somewhere.