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Thread: Keister's 400X build - VIDEO - Page 8

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lewiston, N.Y.
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    1,477
    If you ever want to drive up f or a day of riding the invite is open. We usually we tack on 50-70 miles in a given day.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
    --
    2,040
    New levers and cables all around. Steel braided front and rear brake lines.

    Had the same problem with the front brake lever install as I had with my 250R. Took considerable time on the grinder to make it fit.
    I get very nervous when I have to take brand new (expensive) parts out of the package and straight to the grinding wheel.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG-20130605-00066.jpg  

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
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    2,040
    So the motor has been started and run probably 15-20 times for ~5 minutes each.

    Anyone have any advice as to how much time I should have on the motor before I do the first oil change?
    Is it too early?

    I am using Bel Ray Thumper oil in all of my 350Xes.

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Ontario, CANADA
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    4,538
    Peeps,

    When we rebuilt Dawns 200s, we ran it for one heat cycle. Changed the oil. Ran it a few more heat cycles changed the oil, then we riding down the road some and changed the oil.

    I just figure you cant be to cautious. I know thumper is expensive my 450 takes it too, but you never know what is left over inside the motor...
    RPFLU member and co-owner.
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  5. #80
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    minnesota
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    5,911
    Hello


    I would not run any type of synthetic oil for break in. In short, it can inhibit the piston rings from breaking in properly simply because it’s too “slippery”. I would use a non synthetic wet clutch 4 stroke oil that has around 1400 ppm of ZDDP in it.

    I change the oil on a new motor after the first hour or so then again after around 20 hours or less. Your rebuilt engine is a big investment in time and money, changing the oil after these two intervals or sooner is cheap insurance.

    I would not use synthetic for the first 40 hours in your case.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lewiston, N.Y.
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    1,477
    I agree with the above statements. For what its worth here is how i did mine. First start I ran for 5 min and shut down, parked it. Second day I ran it for 10 min and gave a few short blurps on the throttle...being very gentle and not over reving. Third day went for a half hour ride making sure I went nice and easy and went thru all the gears. Oil change. From that point on a drove her around nice and gentle - def not running wide open. I have a speedo on mine and when i hit 10 miles i did another oil change. After the 10 mile mark i figured she was broken in enough and gradually drove her a little harder. Keeping in mind I put on the 10 miles over a couple weeks, not just one day. Good luck!

  7. #82
    FastZ28's Avatar
    FastZ28 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jonestown,PA
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    228
    Let Rusty ride it for an hour then change it, and call it good, if it still runs lol.
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  8. #83
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
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    17,460
    I did 4 heat cycles on my 350X crate motor, changing the oil with VR1 each time.

    Then I beat the ever living snot out of it; Runs mint

    I just don't have the stamina to hold on. Maybe I need Extenze........
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Plattsburgh, NY
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    2,311
    also agree, no synthetic oil for break in
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  10. #85
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
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    2,040
    Thanks for the advice guys. I drained the Thumper and put 10W-40 Quaker State in last night..... along with a new filter.
    I will keep that oil in until after TrikeFest, I think.

    Also added a front fender last night.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fender.jpg  

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
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    2,040
    While we are on the subject of oil, here's what I did.

    March 19 -- Per the advice of Mr. Garry Crum, I filled the motor with as much 10W40 as it would hold. Probably about a gallon - so full it ran out the fill hole if I removed the dipstick. The idea was to get the 28 year-old clutch fibers soaking. I left that oil in for about 8 weeks. Every few nights I gave the motor a few good shakes to try to keep the clutch plates wet.

    On rebuild day, I drained all that oil and added the Thumper. Also shelved the NOS OEM filter.
    Yesterday, back to conventional oil and another new filter.

    I have, in the past, avoided any synthetics in my 350X's. Reason being, it is too slippery and not good for the clutch. I never thought about that affect on the cylinder / rings. I decided on the Thumper because it is a much higher quality lubricant. Now I am second guessing my plan to change over the Bel Ray Thumper for my garage queen.

    The clutch pulls, releases, and feels excellent now BTW. I do have a new set of fiber plates on the shelf prepared for the day that they inevitably give out. Just hope they last past TrikeFest drag races.

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
    --
    2,040
    Looking to finish the build this weekend. It has been a fun time, but I am so ready to be done with this project.
    Here are the only parts I have left to install (plus white Maier rears, which won't go on until ATCTim fabs me a heat shield).

    TO DO:
    Seal leak at cam chain tensioner
    New front axle bearings
    Fit / trim fenders to clear tank -- mount seat
    Rear steel braided brake line
    New decomp cable (crate motor didn't come with one)
    Fix kicker damage and repaint footpeg

    One last tidbit:
    The rear skid plate will be the last item to install. It was also the first come off. It came loose during my last 350X ride (13 months ago). While trying to bolt it back on during that ride, I noticed the crack in the frame - which is what started this entire process. Looking back, I am REALLY happy that I bashed that skidplate off a giant rock that day.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails parts.jpg  

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    STL
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    3,560
    man you are well on your way! its looking great, and Gary Crum knows his machinery lol
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  14. #89
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Beaver Falls, PA
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    2,666
    Quote Originally Posted by keister View Post
    Looking to finish the build this weekend. It has been a fun time, but I am so ready to be done with this project.
    Here are the only parts I have left to install (plus white Maier rears, which won't go on until ATCTim fabs me a heat shield).

    TO DO:
    Seal leak at cam chain tensioner
    New front axle bearings
    Fit / trim fenders to clear tank -- mount seat
    Rear steel braided brake line
    New decomp cable (crate motor didn't come with one)
    Fix kicker damage and repaint footpeg

    One last tidbit:
    The rear skid plate will be the last item to install. It was also the first come off. It came loose during my last 350X ride (13 months ago). While trying to bolt it back on during that ride, I noticed the crack in the frame - which is what started this entire process. Looking back, I am REALLY happy that I bashed that skidplate off a giant rock that day.
    I'll be over tomorrow afternoon to help with the finishing touches!

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    17,460
    Quote Originally Posted by keister View Post
    Looking to finish the build this weekend. It has been a fun time, but I am so ready to be done with this project.
    Here are the only parts I have left to install (plus white Maier rears, which won't go on until ATCTim fabs me a heat shield).

    TO DO:
    Seal leak at cam chain tensioner
    New front axle bearings
    Fit / trim fenders to clear tank -- mount seat
    Rear steel braided brake line
    New decomp cable (crate motor didn't come with one)
    Fix kicker damage and repaint footpeg

    One last tidbit:
    The rear skid plate will be the last item to install. It was also the first come off. It came loose during my last 350X ride (13 months ago). While trying to bolt it back on during that ride, I noticed the crack in the frame - which is what started this entire process. Looking back, I am REALLY happy that I bashed that skidplate off a giant rock that day.
    Worse thing is that the 350X swinger skid plate mounts are to thin and garbage...........
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

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