checking and setting carb float hight????

[DasUberKraut]

So somewhere in all this fun... I got myself confused.

The fuel inlet is the one with a fitting sticking out the top of the carb body and the vent doesn't have a fitting and sticks straight off the side of the body?



I mixed myself up now nothing looks right.

[yamaha225dr]

The fitting with the black hose attached is the fuel inlet and the other one is a vent. Make sure you run a hose off those vents to keep trash from clogging them.

[barnett468]

Hello DasUberKraut

So somewhere in all this fun... I got myself confused. The fuel inlet is the one with a fitting sticking out the top of the carb body and the vent doesn't have a fitting and sticks straight off the side of the body?

Yes, sir! Don't forget to put a clamp on it!

[tri again]

The fitting with the black hose attached is the fuel inlet and the other one is a vent. Make sure you run a hose off those vents to keep trash from clogging them.

\]

Yeah, mini mud bees around here just LOVE small vacuum lines etc

[SiiCHo]

So i pulled the top end apart to replace the head seal, and this is what the inside of the head looks like.

The piston and cylinder look fine, it must have been from a previous blow up. Either way, its not going back on, since i have 3 spares.

[DasUberKraut]

I'm all good on my end! Replaced my hoses and tried a different set of floats. I think the floats that were in it were twisted a bit and causing a malfunction. Took it for a spin in the woods behind the trailer where kids have good trails made. Laid into her pretty good and seems to be operating good. Idle may be a tad fast but that's about it.

Now I just need to rebuild the rear shock or get a stiffer one installed. I'm getting an occasional fender rub on bigger bumps. But I am fat in the ass, so it's to be expected.

[barnett468]

Hello siCHo

So i pulled the top end apart to replace the head seal, and this is what the inside of the head looks like.

The piston and cylinder look fine, it must have been from a previous blow up. Either way, its not going back on, since i have 3 spares.

CYLINDER HEAD - It's best to look to see if your replacements have been milled to increase compression. Increased compression on a stock cylinder is reguired if you are at elevations above around 4000 ft. If you are at sea level increased comp on a stock engine will promote detonation i which case higher octane gas will be required.


HEAD SURFACE - I suggest you check head for warpage. You can do this by taking a piece of 600 grit wet/fry paper, lay it on a granite counter top. add water, clean head, color gasket surface with felt pen, put head in paper and using moderate pressure rotate it 3 times and inspect. If felt mark is 100% gone it is obviously flat if not continue sanding until it is.


HEAD GASKET - Original is best or Japanese replacement. Don't use sealer. They love to leak.



JETTING - Below is the instructions from the mfg of your carb in case you don't have it already.

2) Idle

Set idle speed to proper r.p.m, by adjusting the IDLE SPEED SCREW. Turn the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW or the AIR SCREW to for correct procedure, achieve highest speed and best response. The IDLE MIXTURE SCREW (FCR) controls fuel delivery to the idle port and the SCREW is located on the engine side of the carburetor slide. Turning the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW out will make idle and off-idle richer. Turning IDLE MIXTURE SCREW (CR, PWK, PJ, PE) controls the amount of air to the IDLE and SLOW CIRCUIT. This SCREW is located on the air cleaner side of the throttle slide and turning the SCREW out will lean the mixture and turning the SCREW in (clockwise) will richen the mixture.



3) Off Idle To 1/4 Throttle

The SLOW JET and SLOW AIR JET are most effective in this range. When you want a richer mixture in this range, use a larger SLOW JET or a smaller SLOW AIR JET. The opposite holds true for a leaner mixture.



http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/need..._your_carb.htm

[SiiCHo]

Hello siCHo





CYLINDER HEAD - It's best to look to see if your replacements have been milled to increase compression. Increased compression on a stock cylinder is reguired if you are at elevations above around 4000 ft. If you are at sea level increased comp on a stock engine will promote detonation i which case higher octane gas will be required.

i dont believe any of them are milled, granted i didnt measure them. the one i put on still had packing peanuts in the fins, and odds are it didnt come from some place at high elevation. i didnt buy it, it came in the mountain of spare parts that came with the trike. either way, its already back together and compression checked at 180psi

HEAD SURFACE - I suggest you check head for warpage. You can do this by taking a piece of 600 grit wet/fry paper, lay it on a granite counter top. add water, clean head, color gasket surface with felt pen, put head in paper and using moderate pressure rotate it 3 times and inspect. If felt mark is 100% gone it is obviously flat if not continue sanding until it is.

i dont have a granite countertop or any other "true" surface anywhere in the house to use. closest i have is my work bench,or the floor in the garage but i wouldnt trust those for the job

HEAD GASKET - Original is best or Japanese replacement. Don't use sealer. They love to leak.

i have a spare gasket kit, i used the copper disc and sprayed both sides with permatex copper gasket seal/adhesive



as far as jetting goes, im still stumped, its still acting exactly the same as before i replace the head gasket. (comp checked at 90 psi with the bad gasket btw) i have read that info you posted, it was straight from the service manual, right? either way, i know ive read it before. ive followed the service manual and the clymer manual to the letter (theyre identical) and still cant get it to idle right. it will fire right up (once warm) and rev fine, then if you try to let it idle, it will hang around 2100 rpm. if you let it set, on its own it will slowly start to fall down to the 1600-1700 range, which is still fast. if you bump the idle adjust one notch (not the mix) it falls to 1300ish (what its supposed to be) and will run there for about 10 to 20 seconds, then just sputters out and dies. if you fire it back up, without adjusting the idle screw and try messing with the mix screw, it only makes it worse, in either direction. im thinking the pilot is still too big, but its the smallest i have on hand. my trike budget is blown for this payday, so its going to have to wait about a week before i can get more jets. i have a 48 in the pilot, a 150 in the main, and the clip is at the top of the needle. i think its most likely going to need a 45, maybe a 42, but im going to order down to a 38, just to make sure im good. if i cant get it right with a smaller jet, im taking it to a shop....

edit to add: i started the jetting process with a brand new plug, when i pulled the head apart, i looked at it. it was half dark tan on one side, and half dry black on the other, its kinda odd for it to be half and half like that, isnt it?

[barnett468]

Hello siCHo

i dont believe any of them are milled, granted i didnt measure them. the one i put on still had packing peanuts in the fins, and odds are it didnt come from some place at high elevation. i didnt buy it, it came in the mountain of spare parts that came with the trike. either way,

When you have 3 to look at you can typically see a difference since they are not all likely to be milled.

its already back together and compression checked at 180psi

This is right at max for sea level, good for around 2000 -3000 feet. If you are at sea level or close to it listen carefully for detonation. Use higher octane if it pings. Don’t want it to grenade!

i dont have a granite countertop or any other "true" surface anywhere in the house to use. closest i have is my work bench,or the floor in the garage but i wouldnt trust those for the job

You can tape paper to window right next to window frame for strength or bathroom mirror and surface on there, done it dozens of times, lol. The glass will not break.

i have a spare gasket kit, i used the copper disc and sprayed both sides with permatex copper gasket seal/adhesive

The gskt mfg’s say not to and it’s best to install as is but it typically doesn’t cause problems and sometimes helps.

as far as jetting goes, im still stumped, its still acting exactly the same as before i replace the head gasket. (comp checked at 90 psi with the bad gasket btw) i have read that info you posted, it was straight from the service manual, right? either way, i know ive read it before. ive followed the service manual and the clymer manual to the letter (theyre identical) and still cant get it to idle right.

Yes it absolutely was, see the link I got it from. They are the dist for the carb and info is from mfg as I said. I did that for you so you wouldn’t question it.

it will fire right up (once warm) and rev fine, then if you try to let it idle, it will hang around 2100 rpm. if you let it set, on its own it will slowly start to fall down to the 1600-1700 range, which is still fast. if you bump the idle adjust one notch (not the mix) it falls to 1300ish (what its supposed to be) and will run there for about 10 to 20 seconds, then just sputters out and dies.

You’re not going to like this but it sounds like an air leak not a jetting problem to me. I know nothing about an osprey but this is not one of those, lol. A jetting problem typically will not cause an idle to hang that high an air leak almost always in my experience. Triple check to make sure throttle cable has free play and is not pinched. Do you have the stuff to do a leak down test with?

if you fire it back up, without adjusting the idle screw and try messing with the mix screw, it only makes it worse, in either direction. im thinking the pilot is still too big, . i have a 48 in the pilot, 150 in the main, and the clip is at the top of the needle.

How far out are you starting with the mix screw?

If screw is around 1 ½ then this suggests the pilot is just right. One way makes it too lean so it dies, the other way floods it so it dies.

If in fact the pilot is correct than you most likely have an air leak at intake or seal as mentioned. Seal leak could be small and on either side, most likely stator side. I know, eng is rblt, seals may be defective etc.

edit to add: i started the jetting process with a brand new plug, when i pulled the head apart, i looked at it. it was half dark tan on one side, and half dry black on the other, its kinda odd for it to be half and half like that, isnt it?

It might be that the ed head surface caused an unusual bur pattern although you might notice a very small difference even when conditions are perfect.

The plug says it’s too rich but it would be with only 90 psi static compression. Try new plug.

[SiiCHo]

No, i dont have a leak down tester. How exactly would leak down testing a 2 stroke work? At tdc all you can really test is your rings and head gasket, and once you bring it down, and the exhaust port is uncovered, all the air will just run right out the exhaust, wouldnt it? (I just looked at a spare jug i have to make sure im not just being dumb) the exhaust port is higher than the intake ports, so it is uncovered first. Maybe im overthinking it, but i dont see how you could check the case...

[SiiCHo]

The reason i think its still too rich is that the mix screw is almost 3 turns out, and the idle adjust (which on my carb just slightly opens or closes the choke circuit with each notch) is about 1/4 from full choke. These seem to be working against each other, but thats the only place i can get it to even somewhat idle. I dont really think its an air leak, since it ran fine with the old 30mm PE carb. I had no issues until that carb broke, and it hasnt been ridden since. I may put that carb back in, just to see if it still has issues. I dont really want to ride it with the repair i made to that carb, but it still idled fine the last i started it (about a week ago)

[barnett468]

Check out this 3 min video, If there is a leak and it is not on outside then remove flywheel and clucyh cover and spray soapy water there.

LEAK DOWN TEST

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdq7NRcUIp8

[SiiCHo]

Ok cool, i figured there had to be a way to do it, i wasnt taking into consideration plugging the intake and exhaust. That makes sense to me now. Just looked up a 2 stroke tester, and damn... $200-$250.

[barnett468]

Hello siCHo

The reason i think its still too rich is that the mix screw is almost 3 turns out, and the idle adjust (which on my carb just slightly opens or closes the choke circuit with each notch) is about 1/4 from full choke.

Your idle mix screw is partially causing it to be rich. Out is rich in is lean.

Their bizarre idle adjust screw is not helping.

Do you know if the idle adjust screw by the choke moves the slide up and down?

If you turn it all the way down can you give it a few turns or clicks before it start moving the choke up?

I dont really think its an air leak, since it ran fine with the old 30mm PE carb. I had no issues until that carb broke, and it hasnt been ridden since.

Ok, probably not then as long as it was on after the eng build.

I dont really want to ride it with the repair i made to that carb, but it still idled fine the last i started it (about a week ago)

It’s a pain, but you might just test again with old carb.

[barnett468]

Ok cool, i figured there had to be a way to do it, i wasnt taking into consideration plugging the intake and exhaust. That makes sense to me now. Just looked up a 2 stroke tester, and damn... $200-$250.

No, no, no, bogus. That's good beer money you'd be wastin, lol. You can figure it out. expansion plug in ex and round rubber plug in intake with hole and threaded tube, 2 nuts, 2 flat washers etc, jb weld and smooth to make smooth surface for hose so it won't leak, apply pinch type hose clamp, silicone both sides and buy cheap 15.00 mity mite pressure gauge from pep boys.