you can also reduce swing arm flex considerably by simply adding either another rectangular bar half way between the existing one and the rear carrier or making a rectangular cross brace but that might look tacky and that would be bad.
you can also reduce swing arm flex considerably by simply adding either another rectangular bar half way between the existing one and the rear carrier or making a rectangular cross brace but that might look tacky and that would be bad.
Ok so here goes. What we have decided to do is do a half sleeve half butt weld design. The best way I can explain is with pics from inventor.
First pic is swinagrm (after cut)
Second pic is swinagrm (with extension (dark part))
Third Pic: extension itself
OK so. The extension has a piece of 6" 11 ga (.125) thick steel tac welded to it (hole in top & bottom extension). Then, the "arms" slip inside of the old swingarm, where they get tac welded (the holes once again). Then, the whole extension gets a weld all the way around both sides of the swinger, on the front and back of the extension.
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1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's
Gone:
'83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,
won't do a thing for you.
you need plates on the side to reduce folding upright. L brackets are good because they can be welded on the top or bottom also. otherwise just 3/16" - 1/4" thick plate.
the side of the arm and new extension need to have at least 4, 3/8" holes in each end of swing arm and in new section.
weld plates to one end of arm or extension.
but weld extension
weld these holes. this will structurally fix the reinforcement to all pieces.
you should also add the rectangular cross brace i suggested if there is room.
If it needs plate on the side, thats not a problem, They can be added in on the side of the extension the exact same way that the top and bottom pieces were (holes in side of extension and also in the side of the swingarm). I can use some pretty thick sheet too, up to 1/4" or so.
1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's
Gone:
'83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,
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Last edited by Mickey Dunlap; 02-05-2014 at 06:54 AM.
Mickey I agree 100% with you, but that apparently isnt good enough for everyone else... I was going to butt weld it together but the other members are trying to convince me otherwise.
Heck, if you can use it on your race bike, I would bet that that its as strong as anything out there...
As I see it, its a butt welded extension with a brace on the outside (the diamond shaped plate). Am I correct?
1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's
Gone:
'83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,
Forgot one thing, is it MIG or TIG? (if you know)
1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's
Gone:
'83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,
over engineering....if you want to halfass it it would of been done by now with a tubeular block extending about 3/4" past the cut on either side drilled pinned and welded in place. Done deal, thats the half ass route...the nice clean was well you know that route also.
No matter what way i would have done it, it still would not be finished. I've had no time whatsoever to do any work on it, just getting it blasted too about a week to find the time. Im not going to half rear end it, thats the point of asking the community for their opinions. where did I say that I was going to? I want it to be functional and look nice. You accomplished that by getting a custom made one. Unfortunately ATM, I dont have the budget for that. The way mickey's bike was done was my very first thought on doing the swingarm, but everyone and their mothers jumped on me about what a horrible idea that is. You ask mickey how many times it snapped in half after extending, then try and bring your point again
1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's
Gone:
'83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,
Ive been thinking about this and i think i have the best idea for you. Take your swingarm and cut it halfway between the shock mount and the.carrier. Then get another swingarm and cut it right at the shock mount. Take the front half of the first swingarm and trim back half of the second one so you're at your desired length, and weld them together however you want. This way you'll only have one weld and you wont have to worry about matching the material.
In your initial post I was going to mention fish plating it. I didn't have time to draw it up for you but, Mickey's picture is exactly what I would do. Butt weld your extension piece in, grind the welds flat and weld on the diamond shaped plate. It will be fine. Anyone who breaks that has bigger issues on their hands. TIG weld it if you can. If you were closer I'd TIG it together for you if needed. Looks like a fun project.
YTM-200, Wheeling machine!!!
1985 Honda 200x...
...Just a simple mild 200x
I would just make a jig, cut out all the stock square tube, and weld in all new round DOM.
Im superised nobody mentioned to do your cuts at an angle. A 30degree angle is stronger than a 90. If theres room for a 45 its even stronger. Definaty plug weld or roseett weld if you plate it. If you have access to tig, thats the best route to go. Dont accellarate any cooling process. Good luck, hope it comes out good.
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