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Thread: Exhaust Bolts Snapped in Head. FUN!!

  1. #16
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    This is the best IMHO extractor set, they don't snap off inside the bolt.

    http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/84968866
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  2. #17
    86 350x's Avatar
    86 350x is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Funny how I see this post, just broke both exhaust studs off in my Atc 70 head
    Drilled a hole used my brand new reverse extractor snap now I'm screwed harden steel pos in my stud hole,
    Not sure why I evened used them iv used easy outs with the same outcome

  3. #18
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    Heres another one that works-

    Heat the area & bolt with a torch Propane or mapp gas then "quench" the bolt treads with a candle, yes a wax candle.

    Do this three times then let it cool down, clean off the wax and grab it with a good set of real Vise Grips. (No cheap imitations)

    When you put it back together drip the stud or bolt in Anti Seize on all bolts near the exhaust and you will not have this issue next time.
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  4. #19
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    Thats why I call them never outs....
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  5. #20
    poolieZerUK is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Snap on do a kit that has a guide bush and drill
    Bush fits over the stud drill goes in opposite rotation to threads work well
    Use them a lot on outboard motors
    Take your time and use cutting grease on the drill bit

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by onformula1 View Post
    This is the best IMHO extractor set, they don't snap off inside the bolt.

    http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/84968866
    That's exactly what I use. Easy outs suck. There is nothing worse than breaking off an easy out in a bolt.

    PB blaster is another snake oil product IMO. It's no better than WD-40 if the threads are exposed. The best "penetrating" oil I have used is Kroil.
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  7. #22
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    Do you guys think it would benefit to try the weld first? Then move to an extractor as a last result. I may take dirtcrasher up on his offer before I screw the hole (didn't sound right). I'm on a roll for screwing things up lately.

  8. #23
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    Do you have a picture of this?
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  9. #24
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    I use left handed drill bit, however before drilling I sand it smooth first then center punch the bolt, and use appropriate sized bit and re-tap the hole to original size. mind you this is done only when I can't put a vise grip on it to extract it. You can try welding a nut to it, but most times it still just snaps off again, and if you are leary about drilling, and tapping definitely send it to Dritcrasher to drill and tap on his mill. The only time easy outs are any good is when the bolt wasn't seized in the hole in the first place. You have to remember you are dealing with a much different quality of aluminum than a pop can so heating it up with a torch to extract the bolt will not melt it. LIke I said if all else fails and you feel you are going to mess it up send it to Dirtchrasher, I would offer my machining services, but not alot of spare time at work to do things lately, and it would take quite awhile for me to do it.
    rectum nothin damn near killed them
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  10. #25
    phantomtracer's Avatar
    phantomtracer is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    For me, the most important detail as mentioned by muthey is to make sure you dril the bolt at centered and straight as possible. If you sand the bolt smooth, center punch and drill straight you will get it out without damage to the threads. Once the pilot hole is drilled go up in bit sizes slowly, the bolt will become so weak you will be able to remove it by hand.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by poolieZerUK View Post
    Snap on do a kit that has a guide bush and drill
    Bush fits over the stud drill goes in opposite rotation to threads work well
    Use them a lot on outboard motors
    Take your time and use cutting grease on the drill bit
    I don't know about the UK, but in the USA for the price of a Snap On kit you could just buy a new engine. "lol"
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  12. #27
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    Pictures! On the smaller bolt it makes it look like I have more sticking out than I do. It isn't much even to grab on. I could possibly get it with a set of needle nose vice grips, but I'm afraid of snapping it. Don't even ask about the exhaust port hole. The donut part of the exhaust header was seized in there. I can't believe I got it out. I still have to clean it up and remove the rest of the old exhaust gasket. Oh, and this is a 225dx head.












    Last edited by Yamaha3wheeler; 04-07-2015 at 09:54 PM.

  13. #28
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    wow..... that thing is in really rough shape. if it was me, I would probably get another head form ebay and call it a day. I see a lot of corrosion on that head. I learned something long ago. if I snap a bolt in the head and it is in a hard place to deal with or I don't have exactly the machine shop level stuff, I take it to a machine shop and let them deal with it. the $40-$50 to have them remove both studs would save you a ton of heartache and problems.
    or spend $60-$75 and get another good head form ebay.
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  14. #29
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    Most of the mess you see is the gasket in there and the rust left from the steel header. I haven't pulled it yet as I just got the exhaust header off last night. I think I can clean it up decent. If not, I'll take your advice and look for another head.
    Last edited by Yamaha3wheeler; 04-07-2015 at 10:23 PM.

  15. #30
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    Man, I wish you were closer, I would have both out in 10 mins.

    Keep in mind that if you happen to drill it out to large by accident or mess up, you can tap the head and run step studs.

    I have never snapped a bolt off myself, knock on wood. (CA, Arizona doesn't have a lot of rust) but I have become an expert due to friends.

    Righty tighty, lefty loosey
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