I want a faster trike.

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The 90s really weren't very powerful. A wheelie is a matter of balance, and you can operate the shifter to the point of popping the clutch, if the clutch is in any decent shape. The clutch may have to be replaced. Who knows how old it is, but try adjusting it first. Also, if there is alot of wear on your piston and rings and your compression is down, that will affect the power also. Have you run a compression check on your piston. You would need one of those little compression gauges that you can hold against your spark plug hole, open the thumb throttle all the way and see what the gauge reads. If the compression is less than 100 psi, then your engine is tired and probably needs a new piston, rings and bore. Your not dealing with something fresh off the showroom floor.

Hmm.. Well.. I'm not 100% about the trike itself, but I think if I had a manual I could tear into it and check things.

Any idea where I could just buy a rebuild kit that'd give me the new piston, rings and all that so that I could just tear it apart, rebuild it and put it back together. That'd probably take a week or so?

I'd like to do that, but I will check the clutch first. Is there anywhere I can read up on stuff to know what I'm doing?

Thanks,

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[threewheelin-feelin]

i think a 200s will suit you very well...im 6'5 around 300 and mine haul me around nicely...and there easy to find and pretty cheap

[re-lapse]

i think a 200s will suit you very well...im 6'5 around 300 and mine haul me around nicely...and there easy to find and pretty cheap

Wanna find me one near my area?

Billings, Montana

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[Vealmonkey]

You can get on ebay and get a kit that already has a replacemnt piston and rings and a bored cylinder. You just need to send your old cylinder back so they can re-do that one for the next person. If it isn't redoable, it will cost you a core charge. The kit comes with the gaskets, around $130 or so I think not including core charge. I think there are shop manuals on this site if you go the the "home page" and search the other listings.

[Erics350x]

Dude, you are 6'4 290 you need a bigger trike! Stop waisting your time with kids stuff.

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You can get on ebay and get a kit that already has a replacemnt piston and rings and a bored cylinder. You just need to send your old cylinder back so they can re-do that one for the next person. If it isn't redoable, it will cost you a core charge. The kit comes with the gaskets, around $130 or so I think not including core charge. I think there are shop manuals on this site if you go the the "home page" and search the other listings.

I looked on ebay and all I could find was Carb rebuild kits. Which I need to get anyway, but I'm not looking for that right now.

Could you link me to a search result that comes up with some?

I have a shop manual now, that's how I adjusted the Clutch a little bit ago. It worked a lot better after that, only problem is the tire won't hold air now so I can't ride it anyway. My brother is going to take the tire to work and patch it really well. Hopefuly that'll work for until I get regular atv tires.

Thanks for all the input.

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[bigreddaddy]

Yeah you need to start with a compression check. You can get a tester at most auto parts stores. I'm 6' 1" 275 and my '80 110 will drag my ass anywhere! It will pull wheelies VERY easy and I just leave the tranny in LOW. It has a LOT of power so I would think your 90 should have a lot more power. If you find a 250es big red jump on it! You would love the 250.
Post the compression results when you get it.

[Vealmonkey]

Well, if you have a shop manual, you might want to check your timing and adjust your valves while you're at it. A new plug, points and condenser wouldn't hurt, a nice tune up. The manual will explain it all. Also, you might want to get the front tire off the ground and check for it's rolling resistance, meaning checking the front wheel bearings for slop and drag. Then put the rear up in the air and check for slop or drag on the rear bearing. These things will help slow down any atc. You have 2 wheel bearing on the front axle and 2 wheel bearing inside the rear bearing carrier. You can check your chain tensioner for chain tension, too much or too little is bad. Try oiling up the chain real nice, believe me it helps. Also a good idea to check and lube your throttle cable and brake line cables. I mean just basic maintenance that this poor trike hasn't had in a while I'm sure. Also check to make sure that your rear brake isn't dragging too much. That adjustment is made with the bolt on the end of the brake rod. Back the nut off so the rear brakes are nice and free and slowly tighten the bolt while spinning the rear wheels which should be up off the ground while doing this. When the brake starts to drag, back the nut back off so the brakes are close to the drum but not causing drag, which you will have better braking too. You might want to try and oil your rear brake mechanism, at least the part you can get too without taking the whole right rear wheel and drum off, which is what you need to do if you need to oil the rear brake mechanism inside the drum. It seems like alot, but you're catching up on years of neglect on the trike. All these little things will help make sure you have your trike in top condition. Also, if you ride through alot of water or mud, you will need to perform these checks more often than if you were just riding around on dry trails or around your property, or heaven forbid, up and down the street. And don't forget a good brain bucket, we don't want anything bad happening involving head injuries. You know these 3 wheeled contraptions are killers! LOL

[re-lapse]

Well, if you have a shop manual, you might want to check your timing and adjust your valves while you're at it. A new plug, points and condenser wouldn't hurt, a nice tune up. The manual will explain it all. Also, you might want to get the front tire off the ground and check for it's rolling resistance, meaning checking the front wheel bearings for slop and drag. Then put the rear up in the air and check for slop or drag on the rear bearing. These things will help slow down any atc. You have 2 wheel bearing on the front axle and 2 wheel bearing inside the rear bearing carrier. You can check your chain tensioner for chain tension, too much or too little is bad. Try oiling up the chain real nice, believe me it helps. Also a good idea to check and lube your throttle cable and brake line cables. I mean just basic maintenance that this poor trike hasn't had in a while I'm sure. Also check to make sure that your rear brake isn't dragging too much. That adjustment is made with the bolt on the end of the brake rod. Back the nut off so the rear brakes are nice and free and slowly tighten the bolt while spinning the rear wheels which should be up off the ground while doing this. When the brake starts to drag, back the nut back off so the brakes are close to the drum but not causing drag, which you will have better braking too. You might want to try and oil your rear brake mechanism, at least the part you can get too without taking the whole right rear wheel and drum off, which is what you need to do if you need to oil the rear brake mechanism inside the drum. It seems like alot, but you're catching up on years of neglect on the trike. All these little things will help make sure you have your trike in top condition. Also, if you ride through alot of water or mud, you will need to perform these checks more often than if you were just riding around on dry trails or around your property, or heaven forbid, up and down the street. And don't forget a good brain bucket, we don't want anything bad happening involving head injuries. You know these 3 wheeled contraptions are killers! LOL

Wow, that sounds like a lot of stuff to do. I think I can do it though. I'll charge the laptop up, and bring it out with me with the manual pdf pulled up.

I don't ride in a lot of water/mud, but I would LIKE to, the issue is not enough power. I adjusted the clutch as you suggested, I followed the manual and got'r set up. I actually road a wheelie with it. Unfortunately I had to lean all my 290lbs on the rear end and gunned it and let off and gunned it, til it popped up and then I held the throttle til it road about 4 feet. Not bad, but I want more.

I'll run through that list when I get a chance, college is demanding now-a-days.

I don't have a helmet those are expensive. I'll just bungy cable 2 pillows to either side of my head, I'll be ok.

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[Vealmonkey]

Well those are all the basic low buck but slightly labor intensive things that you can do. It also gives an idea of what your up against as far as performance robbing and wallet robbing monsters are living in your trike right now. If you had to replace rear wheel bearings, front wheel bearings, chain, chain tensioner, brake shoes and throttle and brake cables your still talking less than $100 and that's not bad. Make sure you have a supply of grease, what ever rust dissolving product you like, some wd40 too, and some fair metric wrenches. You might need a chain breaker to shorten your chain too but maybe you have a buddy with a motorcycle chain breaker. And if your feeling energetic, a good idea to take apart your front forks and make sure you grease up you neck bearing balls too, but be careful, if they are dry, when you take the front end apart which really isn't a major deal the balls will fall all over the place, which is bad. Also the top and bottom balls are different sizes and need to go in the proper place to work right. This will help your front end turning lots. All good things to get in the practice of doing every once in awhile anyway. These things can be major robbers or power and in a trike that's only rated like 8hp, it can make a difference. Report back on progress and let us know what the engine compression is and remember to hold up the thumb throttle while you do this or you won't get an accurate reading. And I hope you didn't use synthetic oil when you changed your oil, it can mess up your old clutches causing them to slip real bad. Also, there is a small screen that needs cleaned in the right clutch cover. It's a good idea to get a replacement cover gasket when you do this. And I don't recommend using the "silicone gasket maker to take the place of a proper gasket. If that silicone squeezes out inside your engine case and gets into your oil pump, it can block oil flow which means things won't get lubed up very well which leads to expensive things you don't want to deal with so be careful. Have fun.

[re-lapse]

Well those are all the basic low buck but slightly labor intensive things that you can do. It also gives an idea of what your up against as far as performance robbing and wallet robbing monsters are living in your trike right now. If you had to replace rear wheel bearings, front wheel bearings, chain, chain tensioner, brake shoes and throttle and brake cables your still talking less than $100 and that's not bad. Make sure you have a supply of grease, what ever rust dissolving product you like, some wd40 too, and some fair metric wrenches. You might need a chain breaker to shorten your chain too but maybe you have a buddy with a motorcycle chain breaker. And if your feeling energetic, a good idea to take apart your front forks and make sure you grease up you neck bearing balls too, but be careful, if they are dry, when you take the front end apart which really isn't a major deal the balls will fall all over the place, which is bad. Also the top and bottom balls are different sizes and need to go in the proper place to work right. This will help your front end turning lots. All good things to get in the practice of doing every once in awhile anyway. These things can be major robbers or power and in a trike that's only rated like 8hp, it can make a difference. Report back on progress and let us know what the engine compression is and remember to hold up the thumb throttle while you do this or you won't get an accurate reading. And I hope you didn't use synthetic oil when you changed your oil, it can mess up your old clutches causing them to slip real bad. Also, there is a small screen that needs cleaned in the right clutch cover. It's a good idea to get a replacement cover gasket when you do this. And I don't recommend using the "silicone gasket maker to take the place of a proper gasket. If that silicone squeezes out inside your engine case and gets into your oil pump, it can block oil flow which means things won't get lubed up very well which leads to expensive things you don't want to deal with so be careful. Have fun.

You.

Know.

Way.

Too.

Much.



I'm going to have to write this stuff down and check stuff out. Right now I have rubber cement on the hole in the tire LOL.

Setting up over night.

I'll have to test all that stuff... if I could find a rebuild kit, I'd just start rebuilding it right now., but I couldn't find one on ebay.

hmm..

I'll keep you posted.

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[Extremesounds13]

I am in Idaho Falls Idaho and I have quite a few ATC's for sale right now, and some in your price range I will PM you some more info. I think we are like 5 hours apart.

[ebecme01]

I had a 90 that was very original and had plenty of compression. It would wheelie and you could almost get a full 360 out of it. but really, they are slow and not capable of what you are looking to do. the bike you have is worth $250 or $300 I would guess since it runs now. If you are patient something bigger will come along and expect to pay $400 or $500 for a decent 185 or 200. Welcome to 3 wheelin, its addicting.....

[re-lapse]

I had a 90 that was very original and had plenty of compression. It would wheelie and you could almost get a full 360 out of it. but really, they are slow and not capable of what you are looking to do. the bike you have is worth $250 or $300 I would guess since it runs now. If you are patient something bigger will come along and expect to pay $400 or $500 for a decent 185 or 200. Welcome to 3 wheelin, its addicting.....

Selling it for $250-$300 would be nice and all, but my brother just spray painted it chrome today. So, that probably dropped it's worth. Secondly, easier said than done. I gaurantee I couldn't find a willing buyer to pay more than what I paid for the trike in the first place, which was $75.00.

I just need a larger trike, there was a 110 for sale real close to me like 20 miles, for 150 bucks. But it got sold before I could even contact the guy. So, I'm left with the 90. Maybe I need to trade my car off and get a quad. *hides from everyone*

Haha, but no, for real. I want a bigger 'TRIKE'.

I'll try and find $400-500, and buy a bigger one. When I find a bigger one for sale, also.

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[Vealmonkey]

I saw the rebuild kits for the 110, but not the 90. And a 110 cylinder won't fit into the 90 cases, the spigot on the bottom of the cylinders is different. Do you have a local bike shop? See how much they would charge for a new piston and boring out your cylinder. You won't know what overbore size piston to use until you have the cylinder off, but they should be able to give you a price. But it might not matter if you have good compression on your cylinder now, but you need to test the compression. And you really don't want to test the compression unless you have your timing set right and your valve lash set. If the timing is off and holds the valves open or shut at the wrong time, it could affect the accuracy of your compression reading and how your trike is running. And trust me, there are alot more people on here that have way more knowledge of trikes than I do. Some of these guys are walking encyclopedias. I have to refer to the shop manuals for all my numbers for gaps and torgue setting and stuff. A good manual is hard to beat and honda factory manuals are pretty much the best. I have a nice collection of factory honda shop manuals, they are pretty much indispensible if you have a honda trike or bike of any kind.