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ceaserthethird
12-12-2006, 05:15 PM
Hey guy's just wanted to post up a picture of the Fender i'm in the process of restoring . . .

i did 220 , 320 , 400 , 600 , 1,000 all wet sanding ...

Should i do 1,500 & 2,000 ? ? ?

I still have few deep scratches that i will leave ...:(

.................................................. .................................................. .......

What Type of Polish can be used ?

Car polish ? Car Wax ?

burnoutboy
12-12-2006, 05:31 PM
Yep... You will need to go to 2000.

mnnmaz
12-12-2006, 06:53 PM
Go MYIER its way easier:idea:

traxxasx
12-12-2006, 11:30 PM
You should have started with simthing along the lines of 40grit. to really remove the white crap, the WET sanding is whats ganna bring the shine out. So it seems to me you did it wrong. the wet sanding starts from 600 up.

TrikeKid
12-12-2006, 11:33 PM
Go MYIER its way easier:idea:
You mean Maire? Easier? Maybe. Cheaper? NO.

WIkid500
12-12-2006, 11:50 PM
You should have started with simthing along the lines of 40grit. to really remove the white crap, the WET sanding is whats ganna bring the shine out. So it seems to me you did it wrong. the wet sanding starts from 600 up.



I'm with him start with 80 grit to remove all the white faded nasty crap. then work your way up. It will almost look nice and red after you get done with the 80 grit, then you are just polishing the surface with the fine stuff. Then buff with a buffer, and compound. Then seal for a shine with a floor wax/polish!

good luck.

EDIT: it's fine to wet sand with 80 grit. the water keeps the paper from clogging up.

Orangecnty250r
12-13-2006, 12:08 AM
I thought starting at 220 was pushing it:eek: :eek: :eek:

ceaserthethird
12-13-2006, 04:48 AM
The Plastic Fender Was red with some scratch's No Fading what so ever ...

My under standing is wet sanding is best

after sanding about 4 hours the Plastic Fender Turned White ...

So what needs to be done for it to be red again ? ? ?

traxxasx
12-13-2006, 05:03 AM
I think all you sanded off was the protective coat. When my fedners were white, i started with 40, you have to dip into it to get a new layer. I dont think you have gone far enough.

Paul C.
12-13-2006, 06:20 AM
Its funny you guys are talking about this because only yesterday I was mucking around with my rear guard which is always white if it's not drowned in WD40.
I got a razor blade from a Stanley knife and began lightly scraping off the white. Before my eyes it was coming back to life, beautiful deep Honda red, next I will rub down with 1500 then 2000 and then Ill hit it with the calico buffing wheel and plastic polish.........Ill let you know if it works......looks good so far.
P.s. you must only lightly scrape with the blade or you will get chatter marks. and keep the blade flat.

WIkid500
12-13-2006, 09:16 AM
yep you gotta go THROUGH the white junk. Then the red, yellow, green whatever will be nice. when you get it done, don't park it in the sun for days on end.

slothminx
12-13-2006, 09:39 AM
That white junk is just where the surface has been sanded rough, theres nothing wrong with it. You just need to keep going a bit longer with the finer grades up to 1500 or 2000 and then get a polishing wheel on there.

doughdog
12-13-2006, 02:27 PM
When my fedners were white, i started with 40, you have to dip into it to get a new layer. I dont think you have gone far enough.

yep you gotta go THROUGH the white junk. Then the red, yellow, green whatever will be nice. when you get it done, don't park it in the sun for days on end.

He said there was NO FADING. That means there was no white junk to sand through. There is no reason to sand with 40 grit. It would probably ruin the fender. This should have all the info you need.

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=24247&highlight=plastic+sanding

mnnmaz
12-13-2006, 03:36 PM
Maier baby!!!!!!!!!!!! Give it up and spent the money! How much more time are you going to put into it, you will end up calling Maier so just do it!:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

slothminx
12-13-2006, 03:41 PM
What if the guy wants to keep the oem plastic for orginality? Or just to save a buck or $100. Its easy to spend someone elses money :D

the great gazoo
12-13-2006, 05:48 PM
Here here, Slothminx- You said it brother- Nothing wrong with a little elbow grease! TGG..........

Erics350x
12-13-2006, 08:36 PM
the white will go away with more sanding with 1500 & 2000 grit

jason 32
12-13-2006, 08:44 PM
40?? 80 grit??:eek: :crazy: o m g - you guys are going to grind right through the plastic!!
use a buffer and buff it out like a car now- no 1500 the buffer will take care of it:beer -- mabe some rubbing compound thats ok for plastics-(i think most is today because of all the plastic parts on cars), and then some polish with the buffing machene
i think i woud have started with 360- plastic is really soft scratches easy
when your done sanding a clear coat will bring out the color,and add shine
ask a local auto paint store for some, or try house of color:beer

ceaserthethird
12-13-2006, 09:52 PM
Can it be hand Polished ?:confused:

I don't have a Buffer:rolleyes:

.................................................. .............

Buying 1,500 / 2,000 grit sand paper tonight

mnnmaz
12-13-2006, 10:39 PM
Maier! way to much time, ask your self how much is my time worth???? and you will buy Maier if you answer your self honestly!

thefox
12-13-2006, 10:54 PM
Maier! way to much time, ask your self how much is my time worth???? and you will buy Maier if you answer your self honestly!

Have you ever seen nicely restored plastic?

Besides, if we were too bussy to work on these things and would rather spend money instead then all of us would have new quads.

traxxasx
12-14-2006, 01:16 AM
Well here is a before and after picture i did with 40 grit, skipped all and went to 800grit with wet sanding. THATS ALL!!!!! Yoi guys and your 100, 300, 400, 600, 1000, 2000 lol,.....No but yea here they are.

BEFORE


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/zoik_soik/3%20wheeler/DSCN0775.jpg



AFTER

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/zoik_soik/3%20wheeler/DSCN0780.jpg



The first pic is when i got my trike from the previous owner...scary huh? Well this is it after i did some work....


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/zoik_soik/jj2x5v.jpg

bigreddaddy
12-14-2006, 01:36 AM
Maier! way to much time, ask your self how much is my time worth???? and you will buy Maier if you answer your self honestly!


Man your missing the whole point of the original post, and this website for that matter.
Most guys on here like to take these old trikes and fix up what they can on them, not just buy all new parts.
It's a real good feeling after you have worked your butt off on something like this and have it come out nice. Thats why he's asking for advice, and thats the main point of having this site.
I think MOST guys here work for a living and have families to take care of and just can't blow a lot of money fixing these old babies up. I know I can't.
Even if I could I would rather do as much work myself than just pay for a new part if it can be fixed.
Get it???

jason 32
12-14-2006, 02:09 AM
traxxs - im not doggin on you but - your pic says it all!!! you see the light shine off it, it shows the surface- just like a car paint job
your surface needs to be smooth as "glass" looking or everything will show through=== thats why 360,400,600, 1000 ect...
you should finish yours and it will look sooo much better,then clear it

Yamahauler
12-14-2006, 02:55 AM
Dont clear coat it.

start at 600, if that dont take every thing out, go heavier and heavier grit til it does....that means you dont have to sand out scratches from more-heavy-than-neccessary grits.

Once your at 1500 or 2000...get a drill buffing wheel...some rubbing compound (medium to fine grit) go over it...then get the finest compound you can fine...go over it with the buffer...then go over it with a good quality car polish. (ALWAYS POLISH WITH WATER AS A LUBRICANT, if you do it try, it will burn)

that should make them absolutly perfect. Im going to buff mine up with the drill wheel real soon and post some pics...i guarentee you will be able to see a mirror reflection.

ATC-Eric
12-14-2006, 03:36 AM
Bigreddaddy, You nailed it on the head. The feeling of accomplishment after an undertaking like that will be so much better then buying a set of maiers that might not even match up with the original colors.


And as for this......



Well here is a before and after picture i did with 40 grit, skipped all and went to 800grit with wet sanding. THATS ALL!!!!! Yoi guys and your 100, 300, 400, 600, 1000, 2000 lol,.....No but yea here they are.

BEFORE


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/zoik_soik/3%20wheeler/DSCN0775.jpg



You had to go through a layer of rattle can just to get to your plastics. Its no suprise you like the 40 grit!

traxxasx
12-14-2006, 04:59 AM
Bigreddaddy, You nailed it on the head. The feeling of accomplishment after an undertaking like that will be so much better then buying a set of maiers that might not even match up with the original colors.


And as for this......





You had to go through a layer of rattle can just to get to your plastics. Its no suprise you like the 40 grit!

Yes i did also had to go threw a layer of white crud. Thats why i choosed the 40 grit.

mnnmaz
12-14-2006, 11:09 AM
All your going to waste all that time buffing and buffing and buffing and NO riding! I think your missing my point? We need all the trikes out there so we still look alive and not trying to fix them! Go Maier and then TRY fix the finder.... GET OUT AND RIDE!!!!!!!! THATS why we have them! not for show.... GRRRRRRRR!!!!!

3 wheels forever!!!! :beer

mark38090
12-14-2006, 11:13 AM
All your going to waste all that time buffing and buffing and buffing and NO riding! I think your missing my point? We need all the trikes out there so we still look alive and not trying to fix them! Go Maier and then TRY fix the finder.... GET OUT AND RIDE!!!!!!!! THATS why we have them! not for show.... GRRRRRRRR!!!!!

3 wheels forever!!!! :beer


Why would you not work on it when your'e not riding it??? I ride the wheels off of mine but i'm also working on the fenders at the same time, and Maier doesn't sell yamaha rears... Now what???

atctim
12-14-2006, 11:32 AM
I have done this method with some success (Yamaha Oxidized plastics):

scrape fenders with straight razer until you are into good plastic. Keep the blade straight up and down to avoid slicing into it.

Then Buff it out with a buffer and heavy compound - then light compound. Worked like a gem.

If you are into good plastic, buff it out to a nice new shine. As someone has mentioned - you can get an attachment for a drill, the only downfall is sopeed. Most buffers range from 1000 RPMs to like 4000 RPMs - you will not get that speed from a drill. However, I think with time and patience, you could do it with a drill attachment. Be forewarned - buffing compound is spendy - about $20 per bottle for each kind (1 quart bottle)

mnnmaz
12-14-2006, 11:53 AM
Hate to tell you this but yes Maier does sell yamaha fenders both front and rear.... I just bought a few of them for my 85 triz so.... keep looking! GET OUT AND RIDE!!!! thats why we have them!!!!

thefox
12-14-2006, 12:24 PM
Hate to tell you this but yes Maier does sell yamaha fenders both front and rear.... I just bought a few of them for my 85 triz so.... keep looking! GET OUT AND RIDE!!!! thats why we have them!!!!

Not Tri Moto fenders through.:(

mnnmaz
12-14-2006, 12:27 PM
Fine, I give up.... keep rubbing I'll go ride! :w00t:

Yamahauler
12-14-2006, 02:17 PM
Oh yea..forgot about the razerblade to scratch the oxidization off.

Heres my before after with the yamaha 125 fenders.

I havent sanded them yet, just razerbladed the oxidization off