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Thread: Think this could be fixed by welding?

  1. #46
    Join Date
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    its repairable 100%, just because its weakend around the break means very little. it took ALOT of force behind that gear to do that in the firstplace. i dont see anything else normal breaking the case once its welded up. and i mean welded. not JB weld. i would not even think of buying a new case. a shop would maybe charge 10 bucks tops to fix that properly. its not bad to the point where i could even weld it. i just dont have the proper wire/tips to do so with my little welder. its obvious it wont look great. the case is pushed out, and it will most likely crack if you try to knock it back. id just get it filled and grind it down as nice as you can. and you will be 100% fine. unless the gear goes again it will probaly almost make it fully through next time.
    Looking for some smaller style tires like the r's have, just 2 back tires. pm please.

  2. #47
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    man i usually get banned for like this
    1986 Tri-z
    1985 250r
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  3. #48
    Mosh is offline I'm the one with all the 2 stroke around here! The day begins with 3WW
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    I am concerned about the output shaft alignment after it is welded.
    It may be off center now..Hard to tell by looking at the pics.

    I will add one thing..
    All the bickering is really uncalled for.
    Fact is, you can try to help someone over the net, but the guy doing the work may not have enough mechanical experience, to understand when something is binding or getting ready to break.
    No amount of internet "expertise" can teach someone about the "feel" of being a good mechanic.
    Only hands on experience, can teach someone when something is not going together / coming apart correctly.
    I dont give a what any Manual says.

    I can feel your love for s,and I know you are joking about the water-cooled trike comments, at least I hope you are.
    If you really hate them that bad, then sell the project to someone who will like it.

    One thing I do see absolutley childish here, is that line by line multi quote post breakdown of replies. Honestly, I can assemble a whole 250R engine, in the time it takes to break down a post sentence by sentence like that and reply to it.

    It reminds me other forums, that loves to do that, which makes me want to smash my head right thru the friggin computer screen everytime I see it done..

    As a matter of fact, if you decide to do that multi quote breakdown bullshit again, please send me that broken case so I can smash my PC to pieces with it.
    Last edited by Mosh; 07-24-2009 at 12:45 PM.
    Here is where my long useless list of stuff nobody cares about should go...


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  4. #49
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    that case would work very well for smashing a pc. I would recommend a wide steady swing with the force aimed just past the current pc's position . Pc should be unplugged and please wear proper safety attire. If pc requires another hit please keep in mind that there may be further metal fatigue where the metal in the case has failed
    Last edited by KILLER; 54 Minutes Ago at 06:17 PM. Reason: beer

  5. #50
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    Aug 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mosh View Post
    I



    One thing I do see absolutley childish here, is that line by line multi quote post breakdown of replies. Honestly, I can assemble a whole 250R engine, in the time it takes to break down a post sentence by sentence like that and reply to it.
    Honestly - it takes all of 5 minutes, maybe, to reply to a post in such a manner - no different then adding underline and italics to a reply for emphasis.

    Regardless of all of that - the case was brought to a local place this morning - they welded it up and I have it back now. It cost 12 bucks.

    Was it a good job? I dunno - I'm not a welder. It's ugly enough.

    Will it hold up once reassembled and filled with oil? hard to say, again - I'm not a welder. I hope it does - ugly or not, doesn't matter to me.

    If it again starts to leak I'll just rip it apart again and get another case half when funds allow.

    Again, thanks to all of those who really reached out to help and kept the attitudes curbed - I appreciate that a hell of a lot and only hope I can sometime return the favor and well wishes.

    Peace.

  6. #51
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    Dec 2008
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    I had a side (clutch) cover welded on a Virago many years ago, It was bad, laid down by the PO. It leaked "slightly" after assembly, from the weld. I took it back off, cleaned it the best I could and then coated the area with JB weld. I painted both covers with that black wrinkle finish spray paint. Never leaked again, for me at least.

  7. #52
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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    I see no reason why this couldn't be welded. JB weld is good in it's own right, but this is not the place to use it. I know guys who could weld that no problem and it would be good as new. I understand what Mosh (I think) was saying about the counter shaft being off-center after you weld it, but that wouldn't stop me from trying. So it's been a week, what's the outcome?
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  8. #53
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    i've had many a part welded. the best way is to take it and soak it in defreaser, then take it to a shop to have it weldned. a good shop will wend the inside first and ensure i;s solid then work on t he outside. the inside will show all hairline cracks and fracturers where the outside will not. so ensure you do the inside first. soaking it in a some form of oil neutrilizer like maybe if you can find it bucket of carb cleaner or even get a gallon of that purple power an put it in a 5gallon bucket. out the part in it and let it soak. only foll the bucket with water enought to cover the part after you out all the purple power in it. purple power can lifta lot of the oils out of the pours.
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  9. #54
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    Oct 2002
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    This is what it looked like after the weld was ground down:



    Although I didn't see any pics of it immediately after welding, it doesn't look like it was done by a good TIG welder IMO......
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  10. #55
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    honestly, I havent had much luck with tig on engine cases...it is really freakin hard for me to get it clean 'enough'. The last block that I did was with arc and was very happy. A good nickel rod. This was pretty thick in some areas, I did (v) on both sides of split, even so it would have been tedious with the TIG. Just get it clean as you can, preheat-preheat-preheat, weld away and nice slow cool down, I like a bucket of perlite. (pics from other site)


  11. #56
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    ^ Thats cast iron though - correct??

    I use to use the Nickel rod and an arc on the machines that got broke after the "riggers" moved them in Cast iron is a very difficult metal to deal with, I'd say even more so than cast aluminum. Partially because cast iron is usually very thick due to it's porosity and very hard to penetrate and when you do, that metal tweaks and turns like crazy!

    I had a machinist local and that guy could do any aluminum (cast or billet) in about 3 minutes and his results didn't even need cleaning up. THATS the kind of guy you want to bring your cases to and have TIG welded.

    I don't think these got welded by a competent welder (no offense to the repairman, he tried) but someone ATTACKED that weld with a right angle grinder after the weld so I don't imagine it was done very well.

    I guess I should have said "Weld them, but do so with a trained competent welder".

    Apparently I piss people off because I love trikes and because of there rarity, I want to see them repaired correctly. It's a losing battle though.............
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  12. #57
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    my bad, it is ci. I wasnt thinking about the application. You are right, I prefer tig for alum because it is all I have. Mig setups for alum look fun. I have found sticking metal together is 25 % science, 25% art and 50% experience. Good luck

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