Thanks for all the info
Thanks for all the info
No problem, good luck if you try it!
1986 250r - Fully rebuilt from the ground up!
- http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ATC-250r-Build
1985 Tri Z - Next project!
1982 250r - Sold
1983 Auto X - Sold
1984 Auto X - Sold
1985 200M - Sold
1985 YTM 125 - Sold
1985 185 - Sold
1984 185 - Sold
1/21/2013 - RIP Grandpa Rosa, great man, will be missed.. Love you
Check out my feedback:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-CodyRosa
Busy weekend, i see some questions were directed at me sorry for the delay in responding!
I rinse thoroughly with water, baking soda can be used to if you wanted to make absolutely sure its neutralized, but all you need is a few spoon fulls and some water to dissolve it in. The WD-40 spray down is to force the water out of the places like the corners and to keep it from flash rusting, just adds a protective coating until it gets put back on and filled with fuel, any WD-40 left in the tank will just wash out with the fuel and get burned, no harm to the carb or engine. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement Formula #40, it was the inventors 40th try at making it. Most people think its merely a spray lubricant, it does work in that regards, but it was originally engineered to displace water from metallic surfaces.
If your going to put fuel in right away you can even skip the WD-40, just rinse, neutralize, and then fill with fuel. The WD-40 however removes the step of drying before fuel and removes the period of time that rust could quickly form while your drying it out.
That stinks you can't find it in Canada... But you still should be able to find Muriatic acid easily enough, a pool supplies place or cleaning place will have it in gallon jugs. A lot cheaper than apple cider vinegar.
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1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....
Thanks for the response kb0nly - you're always a wealth of knowledge!
But I just want to clarify one thing. I've heard a lot about this "flash rusting", and not exaclty sure what it is. I'm assuming it just means that the tank will start rusting right after the solution (the Works, vinegar, muriatic acid, etc) is removed from the tank and rinsed out with the water/baking soda solution. But my question is, how can it rust that quick if you fill it with fuel right after you drain the solution? What's "neutralizing", and what purpose does it server? The way I see it, you dump out the solution, give it a swish of gas and dump that out, then fill it with fuel. Wouldn't this work? Save the neutralizing with water/baking soda, drying out, adding WD40 steps...?
Sorry if you've already answered some of my questions in your post, but I'm just trying to wrap my head around the purpose of all this...
1985 Honda ATC 250ES
1985 Honda ATC 250SX
1984 Honda ATC 200M
1983 Honda ATC 200
1984 Honda ATC 110
Big G, That's exactly what I did and never got rust. I sprayed it with water about 3 times, pressure + water, filled the tank. Then put a little bit of gas, like 1/2 cup and swished it all around. Emptied that and filled it. Never got any rust. I would do the WD40 as that seems like it would neutralize it pretty good.
1986 250r - Fully rebuilt from the ground up!
- http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ATC-250r-Build
1985 Tri Z - Next project!
1982 250r - Sold
1983 Auto X - Sold
1984 Auto X - Sold
1985 200M - Sold
1985 YTM 125 - Sold
1985 185 - Sold
1984 185 - Sold
1/21/2013 - RIP Grandpa Rosa, great man, will be missed.. Love you
Check out my feedback:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-CodyRosa
If your going to fill with fuel right away there is no harm in not using WD-40 to prevent rust, but you have to swish and dump because you will get water in the corners of the tank, especially towards the back. And with water being heavier than gas it will just sit there, it will get swished around when you fill the tank and then settle back out. I know the big ethanol fuel argument will come in here too, but all fuel has some water in it, thats not the point. The point is you have to wash the acid out, i wouldn't want acid going through my carb, it would eat it alive, and you want to make sure you get all the loose crud washed out anyway. So the best way is to neutralize the acid with a little baking soda, i have even heard of guys using a quart of milk, any good base will neutralize the acid, but that includes adding more water to rinse, so then you have to get the water out. Its just a vicious cycle.. LOL
I like using the WD-40 as a last step of just in case, doesn't cost much, doesn't take much time, and can safely mix with the fuel and burnt out. You can also neutralize, rinse thoroughly, and then dry it for a bit and fill with fuel.
I know it sounds odd, but flash rust can happen fast. I have taken a cleaned piece of metal and sat it down on the workbench for half a day or so and come back and its lightly rusted, bare clean metal will rust fast just from the humidity in the air.
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1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....
Right on, thanks for clarifying guys...Guess I should've paid more attention in chemistry class!
1985 Honda ATC 250ES
1985 Honda ATC 250SX
1984 Honda ATC 200M
1983 Honda ATC 200
1984 Honda ATC 110