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Thread: tri z 250 cool head and vforce 3 install pics

  1. #16
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    Going to need some mods on that swinger huh?

  2. #17
    pcs's Avatar
    pcs is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    just took quick measurements with the stock one still on and they seem to match up, just need to cut out the center section to clear the engine, im going to try and slide in the stock axle assembly into a round 35mm carrier, if it doesnt work then ill just get a stock rear axle set up off a banshee and run that with a quadzilla rear shock (swaps with a banshee) bc it has a remote ressi i can mount in the stock location so i can keep the stock gas tank for now. its about a plus 6 in swinger. found the swinger for $100, its from metal tech in phx,az and a chromoly version
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  3. #18
    Mosh is offline I'm the one with all the 2 stroke around here! The day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rigaman View Post
    Does anyone have info on how to modify the pump gas dome to make it run on pump gas? How much power would be lost?

    Also.. Do you use a special head gasket with the cool head?
    Quote Originally Posted by Just-Tri-It View Post
    Mosh, are you saying that with either of the domes that come with it, there are still mods that need to be done to the dome for it to run 93 successfully and not have detonations?
    Yes, in most cases the pump gas dome will require a 50-50 mix of race fuel. I agree with PCS, that if you can afford it race fuel, it is much better than regular premium.

    Supposedly Sprock is making a round of new domes that are relieved to drop down to regular 93 octane. I currently have a modified one that he cut I am working with testing/tuning now. It seems to be working well, but I am still testing it.

    As far as losing power from cutting the dome, IMO you won't notice it on most applications. Once your squish and compression get too high, you actually will lose performance. So by getting those numbers down to ideal levels you will most likely gain a little power or at least top end revs. You may lose some bottom end torque, which IMO the Z is ok with bottom end anyway.

    Compare those pics that PCS posted of the dome..IMO the squish band should be turned down around .020" and where the dome starts to taper towards the plug area, those edges should be laid back at least .030" to give it a little larger chamber towards the plug area. I am not a machinist, nor do I pretend to be, but I do know a little about engines and that is what I would do with the dome.
    On a Z I feel that compression should be kept at 175psi and the squish should be kept at .055" or higher, but no lower. If you don't know what squish is or how to measure it, do a google search. Until Sprock gets the domes made, you could contact Jason Hall and see if he can rechamber them or any other machinist local with a lathe should be able to modify the areas for you relatively cheap.
    Here is where my long useless list of stuff nobody cares about should go...


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  4. #19
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    thanks for posting that up, im sure some of the tri-z guys will benefit from it!

    also I have had two swingers done by metal tech, great guys! I love my +6 swingers they did for me
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  5. #20
    pcs's Avatar
    pcs is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    ive learned plenty from other members here so i feel i should help the 3 wheeler community when i can
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  6. #21
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    i will be following this thread for sure! $100 for a 6+ swinger, did you steal it? lol
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  7. #22
    pcs's Avatar
    pcs is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    tri z ripper: funny that a different member said the same thing about me buying an 85 r for $200. just looking around for parts and looking around everywhere to fine a good deal.ill make a separate thread for the swinger, ill try and get lots of pics posted
    Team Blue: 85 Tri-z 250: under the knife
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  8. #23
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    I've got nearly all the parts Sprock made for the Z, the cool head, manifold, V-Force, hi-flow impeller, and clutch basket. It took a while to get the engine figured out but now I am very happy with it. Frankly, I didn't think a Z could perform this good. Here are some of the stats on my engine. I have Sprock's race gas dome in it. I checked the squish band clearance using the solder test and it measures .043. The compression is 190-95 psi. With this configuration I run 75/25 race gas to pump gas (110 Sunoco purple mixed with 93 pump). I've done some testing and it actually likes the 75/25 mix better than straight race gas. It also runs surprisingly cool. I've got Engine Ice in it and Sprock's hi-flow impeller and it runs around 180 degrees. In the future I hope to get a better pipe for it. Right now I'm running a DG. Here are some pictures.

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    Last edited by christph; 03-26-2013 at 08:58 PM.

  9. #24
    pcs's Avatar
    pcs is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    im heading in a similar direction as you are chris, i wanted to run less compression bc when i dune i ride hard for longer periods of time and i ride in the az summer which you know how that is so want to keep chances of pre ignition down. i usually run 1 gal of purple gas to 2 gal 91 mixed at 32:1 but with this head ill try 1:1 purple gas to 91. only other thing i dont like running intake spacers, i like how yours looks and the extra shine it adds to the motor however. im running the stock boot. only took about 3 mins in hot water and the 39 pwk slip right in.
    Team Blue: 85 Tri-z 250: under the knife
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  10. #25
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    You may want to give a reed spacer a chance--it is not just bling. In fact, I was shocked how much it improved the performance of my engine. Since you are running the stock manifold with the boost bottle you might not get the same results, but then again they aren't that expensive. As I think you know, I added a boost port to my cylinder and got it flowing much better. Even with the V-Force it didn't feel like it was living up to its potential. The engine felt choked up. Then I installed the spacer and WOW, it really boosted its performance. Now, I don't give all or even most of the credit to the spacer. I think with the added boost port and the capacity to flow more air, the V-Force just needed more room in the intake to operate at maximum flow. Either it was too close to the boost ports or perhaps the reeds were being limited in their actuation by the relatively small intake of the Z. Whatever the explanation, the results speak for themselves. Here is a thread I started about it: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...es+reed+spacer

  11. #26
    volfan537240 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    How much was the head? That site has no prices.
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  12. #27
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    I think I paid $220 for mine. For that you get the head, a dome of your choice, and a gasket set. I ordered a couple gasket sets because they are only 12 bucks. If you want the other dome (only two available I believe, pump and race) I think they are around $30 each. Greg, the owner, is good to work with. Sometimes Sprock is slow with getting him parts but that is just something you have to accept. I'm just glad he is making them.

  13. #28
    pcs's Avatar
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    the domes available come in 20,22,24 cc suppose to race gas,50:50, and pump gas versions
    Team Blue: 85 Tri-z 250: under the knife
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  14. #29
    ktmcrasher is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    I'd love a cool head but don't know where to buy one & what dome to use on 98 octane uk fuel

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcs View Post
    the domes available come in 20,22,24 cc suppose to race gas,50:50, and pump gas versions
    Last time I talked with Greg at Off-Road Innovations he said there were only two domes available, pump and 50/50 (which is the race dome).

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