How to Bypass neutral switch????

[tri again]

Could be the key switch . Don't leave that out . I've had the light flash , or not shine ,,, wiggle or cycle the key and it worked . Just bringing that up .

Thanks chop. I forgot about that. Had one but cleaned the contacts long ago so I forgot about it. GREAT post on how to clean/fix them on here.
Key on would give flickering neutrallight. so I ad to back it off a couple thousandths to get a steady light.

[MonroeMike]

...GREAT post on how to clean/fix them on here...

http://www.mikesatvfix.com/articles/...air/keyfix.htm

[sledneck0695]

So I took the negative coming from the light and grounded it and still no light and I cleaned the switch before trying to ground it and still nothing...... Any other Ideas????? Really need help on this asap.

[sledneck0695]

Just cleaned the key switch and it was corroded so cleaned everything up like it says to do in the link above and still nothing. The negative coming from the light is still grounded.

[tri again]

Deep breath.
So did you reconnect the wires you cut?
You have to ground the wire coming from the safety switches by the brake pedal and that will complete the circuit.

Now have you found the godBless'ed oddball fuse in the plastic case held in with 2 phillips screws in a rubber boot thing?
Looks like stamped tinfoil.
I forget what it does but that's where I look when the wifes trike won't start.
Somewhere hidden behind the cdi black box unit.

I'll go look but it should be shown in either the owners or shop manual.

Bulbs not burnt?
will it kickstart?

[sledneck0695]

Yeah re connected all the wires that I cut and plugged the wires into the switch near the brake pedal and still nothing. And yeah that fuse is good. Now I grounded the negative coming out of the neutral bulb before it goes into the plastic connector. That's okay isn't it????

[sledneck0695]

Actually no I was thinking of the fuses in the fuse box. I haven't checked that one yet. the neutral light bulbs not burnt out and I haven't tried kick starting it since I did that. But my electric start doesn't work anyways neither does my head light or reverse light. The guy I bought it from a few years ago obviously didn't take care of it. first it was the reverse light that went, than neutral light would flicker and once in a while not turn on than the electric start went than the headlight.

[tri again]

There is another thread going on right now about the goofyfuse.

[sledneck0695]

Quick update I went out last night and that fuse was broken so I put them together and there getting power but still no neutral light so I'm going to get a multimeter and start chasing wires.

[Flyingw]

Start at the switch on the engine. Put it in neutral. You should have ground continuity. If not, the tip of the switch is worn.

[Chopsaw]

Quick update I went out last night and that fuse was broken so I put them together and there getting power but still no neutral light so I'm going to get a multimeter and start chasing wires.

Did you replace the fuse link or just connect the wires ? Put a fuse in it then listen to what Flying W has to say , try what he says .

[wonderboy]

A multi-meter will be your best friend.

First, follow FlyingW's advice.

Here is my advice, which is really just general information for wiring troubleshooting.

Start out with the basics. Don't assume anything. This means first things to do:
1. Use a multimeter and measure the battery voltage (make sure it is good)
2. Connect the positive lead of the meter to the battery positive terminal and then using the ground lead, confirm that the various locations on your machine are grounded. Pretty much all metal on the three wheeler should be grounded, but specifically check the frame and the motor.
3. Now do the reverse of step 2. Connect your ground lead to the battery negative terminal and use the positive lead to test out the +12V wire along the path from the battery up to the ignition switch and through it. This is where you will need the wiring diagram to look up wire colors.

I checked the wiring diagram and it looks like your symptoms (no headlight, no neutral light, no reverse light) can all be tied to a single bad +12V feed.

Here is the path (with wire colors from the wiring diagram in the service manual):
A. Heavy gauge lead from battery goes to one terminal of the starter solenoid.
B. From this same terminal, a red wire goes through a 20 amp fuse and feeds the ignition switch. (first test point with meter).
C. Ignition switch puts power on a black wire (all black) which feeds multiple locations but the important one is the 15 amp fuse in the forward fuse box. (next test point)
D. On the other side of the 15 amp fuse, the wire should be black with brown stripe. This wire feeds three important devices: the indicator lamps, the headlamp switch, and the starter solenoid. You should confirm that with the key switch on, that you have battery voltage on this wire (black with brown stripe).

There is more tracing to do after that point, but since all three items (indicator lamps, headlight, and starter) all don't work, the issue should be somewhere in the up-front in the power feed traced out above.

Remember, the multimeter is your friend. Sorry if the above information is overwhelming, but take everyone's advice one step at a time and you'll figure it out. (just put down the wire cutters and nobody will get hurt).

[sledneck0695]

Got the meter this morning and I figured I'd test the positive that goes into the neutral bulb and it had power going to it but the light wouldn't illuminate so I pulled the spark plug out and sure enough it had spark and now it runs and drives normally but the neutral light still wont come on or the reverse light and I replaced the headlight bulb because I took that apart and it was broken put the new one in and still nothing. I don't really care to much about the neutral and reverse lights as long as it runs but it would be nice to get the headlight working.

[wonderboy]

Ok. So here is your headlight troubleshooting guide.

1. Confirm the ground. The green wire (anywhere in the harness, but especially at the headlight connector) is your ground wire. Confirm ground in one of two ways:
A. Use your voltmeter on "Resistance" or "Ohms" mode and measure the resistance between the green wire at the headlamp bulb and directly to the battery negative terminal
B. Use your voltmeter on "Voltage" mode and connect your negative lead to the green wire and the positive lead to the battery positive terminal. (should see full battery volts)

2. Confirm power is at the headlight switch. The headlamp switch is powered when the ignition switch is on by the black wire with brown stripe. Confirm that with the ignition switch on, you are seeing battery voltage on this wire (black with brown stripe).

3. With the key switch on, move the headlight switch to low beam. Check for power on the white wire (negative lead of meter at battery negative post).

4. With the key switch on, move the headlight switch to high beam. Check for power on the blue wire (negative lead of meter at battery negative post).

This is it. If you confirm that you have a good ground, and that you are getting power to the wires, your light will work. Let us know if any of the above checks come back bad and we'll go from there.

[Atc70noob]

Sorry to thread jump but I just wanted clarification...are saying that the two bullet connectors at the bottom of the engine near the brake pedal are just simple grounds? So if my connectors are worn out...And Honda doesn't sell that wire anymore..couldn't I just ground out the wires on the frame using a wire eyelet connector and it would start more consistently with out me jiggling those wires? Unless I am completely misunderstanding how this system works.