Cool article on the Ram "Built in the Neck" steering stabilizer.

[bkm]

BWard, Dimitris, and Buster Brown all provided me with this cool article in case anyone was wondering how the Ram built in steering stabilzer worked. I would love to try and replicate this, but something tells me this will be one tall task to perform.

[onformula1]

Thank you guys, thanks for posting bkm, I have been looking for info for years.

I love the nostalgic look of the RAM.

[bkm]

I wonder if anyone has taken one of these apart and taken pictures of the internals. I'd love to know what kind of seals the pison used, how the damper adjustment actually worked, etc.

Formula: You're a shock guy, how do you think they set up the dampening adjustment inside the stem? Do you think the stem was replaced with a hollow shaft, or the oem shaft was modified and the damper installed? I know some rear shocks have a dampening adjustment on the bottom of the main shaft, do you think this is similar?

[onformula1]

LOL, I have been studying that picture for hours and I mean hours, last night I gave myself a migraine!

I have parts mocked up all over the place.

This may change later, but it really is nothing like a shock other than they restricted a orifice that the fluid flows though to make the damping softer or firmer.

I think the viscosity of the fluid can be changed to reset the the standard settings. Most stabilizers use 2.5WT to 5WT fluid and I have rebuilt and modified many brands.

If it used 5WT, use could go to 2.5WT for a softer feel or 7-7.5WT for a firmer feel, starting over with the compression adjuster each time.

It is not gas backed on the fluid so a shock type seal would not seal for sure, I think they used a rubber or Viton double lip seal like a fork uses, but smaller in size, one on the top and one on the bottom.

I am guessing but they are probably SAE size do to more options and many American machists change over just like American made shocks.

I think the stabilizer tube is the steering stem, you can see a bottom bolt that threads though the bottom triple clamp, at the top I can't tell if it uses a inverted, hollowed out bolt or if the body is threaded and it uses a nut. My guess is the later.

It is not a shim, check valve or vain type system it uses a worm gear and piston for resistance and a rear shock rebound type system for adjustment.

Key note in the article is you had to give them the triple clamps and your frame. I think to replace the whole stem with a press, but you had to locate the hole that was drilled though the steering head to be out of the way, most likely different for each model and brand of trike then weld a machined round tab on the frame where the bolt would clamp down.

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[onformula1]

I think they must have made a few diameters and lenght of stem housings for different models.

What is interesting is the roller bearings are internal and internally fluid bathed. I like that a lot, no more rust or grime.

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[El Camexican]

$500 in the mid 80's? Ouch! that would be like $2,500 today? Plus shipping the frame? Makes a removable Scotts look like a heck of a bargain. Still, very cool. I wonder how many folks stepped up and bought one?

Seems simple enough. It looks like you turn the bars one way and the piston runs up or down (depending which way you turned) on the worm gear compressing the oil. The adjustable bleeder screw determines how fast or slow the damping effect is. When you turn the bars back, or the other way the piston compresses the opposite side of the. Or am I missing something else? They only show oil on one side of the piston, but I'm assuming both sides are wet.

[big specht]

I can't see where that was a hot seller. Way to complex and permanent for the average joe. But a really neat idea

[bkm]

I'm having a 86-87 neck shipped out to me this weekend and have access to a lathe and mill. Lets get something done lol

[onformula1]

$500 in the mid 80's? Ouch! that would be like $2,500 today? Plus shipping the frame? Makes a removable Scotts look like a heck of a bargain. Still, very cool. I wonder how many folks stepped up and bought one?

Seems simple enough. It looks like you turn the bars one way and the piston runs up or down (depending which way you turned) on the worm gear compressing the oil. The adjustable bleeder screw determines how fast or slow the damping effect is. When you turn the bars back, or the other way the piston compresses the opposite side of the. Or am I missing something else?

You got it, I was just going to type that but tapatalk will only let me type so many words at a time...lol

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[El Camexican]

I'm having a 86-87 neck shipped out to me this weekend and have access to a lathe and mill. Lets get something done lol

My suggestion would be to just buy beer and stare at the neck and the article if you really want to enjoy the weekend

[El Camexican]

You got it, I was just going to type that but tapatalk will only let me type so many words at a time...lol

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I also edited twice after I posted I think the oil showing on only one side is confusing.

[onformula1]

I had to change from nut to bolt or how would you get it though the neck, brain fart

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[bkm]

My suggestion would be to just buy beer and stare at the neck and the article if you really want to enjoy the weekend

I showed this to my Machinest buddy and he said basically the same thing.

[El Camexican]

I would guess that there are holes in the adjuster tube that line up with holes in a larger tube it fits in (threaded at one or more points) If so you would raise or lower it to align or close off the holes to set the damping speed. I don't know, that beer is sounding pretty good right now though.

[onformula1]

I'm having a 86-87 neck shipped out to me this weekend and have access to a lathe and mill. Lets get something done lol

I truly don't think they ever used the stock steering stem.

Way to small, but the neck is much larger on the ID, plus the fact it bolts from the top and bottom.

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