
Originally Posted by
barnett468
I guess he's referring to the guy quoted below because I don't know anyone else that would disagree with that clutch article if they understood it correctly, because of course clutches are designed to slip against each other and the pressure plate just like automotive clutches are UNTIL the clutch is fully engaged, at which time there should be no slip, or at least that's how KAWASAKI designed them which may be a stock TECATE...The Most Powerful 3 Wheeler In The Universe will in fact beat a stock Honda atc250 10 times out of 10 in a heads up drag on the asphalt even though it has ONE LESS GEAR in the transmission.
In FACT, the TECATE clutch is so "grabby" that it often chatters a little when engaging it, and the engineers that designed the clutches told me that with all things considered, it was better to leave it like that than for them to try and design a new clutch for it since I considered the chatter to be within an acceptable level.
What they are NOT designed to do is slip AFTER they are fully engaged to "help keep the engine on the pipe" as the person quoted below obviously believes.
I certainly doubt if I or KAWASAKI would have won as many races as we did if we had clutches that slipped so they could help keep the bike on the pipe.
FACT - If you have a clutch on ANY bike that slips long enough to "keep the engine on the pipe", it is trash.
From the article.
(1) A motorcycle clutch is a “deadman switch.” When it is pulled in, the engine is disconnected from the drivetrain. When it is released, the engine and the drivetrain are hooked up.
(2) The trick is to have enough spring pressure to ensure that the coupling will stay engaged under the load of 50 horsepower, but not be so strong that the human hand can’t disengage the coupling.
(4) For maximum hookup, the stiffest possible clutch springs are desirable... Of course, while softer clutch springs are easier to modulate, they also lack the clamping pressure required to keep the drivetrain engaged under heavy loads.
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