1985 250R rear carrier/brake support?

[AngusJustice]

Hello all,

After throwing my chain in the bush last weekend I decided it was time to rotate the rear carrier an apply more tension but after removing the 2 Allen bolts and the center plug I could not get the carrier to rotate at al. It wasn't until I removed the 2 bolts holding the rear brake caliper on and removed it was I able to rotate the carrier freely, but my rear bearing carrier and my rear brake caliper support don't move independently. I have removed the compression ring on the edge of the brake stay support but I still cant get this to move, Is it stuck or is it on a spline? I thought these moved independently of each other due to the support from the swing arm to the brake support.

Any help would be appreciated.
please see pictures attached.

[El Camexican]

Let me start by saying that I've never worked on one of these, but If I understand your question you're asking why you couldn't rotate the hub without removing the caliper which appears to be bolted to a mount that is welded to the carrier? If I got that right then I suspect your rear disc is worn a little and the pads were just caught on a lip on the disc. I'm sure someone with a 250R will chime in here in a moment.

Regardless of how the adjuster works, if you threw a chain you may want to consider a new chain and gears. They don't typically come off when all is in good order and sending a chain through your cases would suck. Do you know how to check a chain for wear by pulling it back from the center of the rear sprocket? Some be a video or two out there if needed.

[Red Rider]

Yes, you're brake caliper bracket should be able to rotate somewhat freely on the rear bearing carrier. Looking at the pics, a complete teardown, cleaning & lubrication will do wonders for you. The center plug, as you called it, is only there to prevent the eccentric cam bearing carrier from rotating too far while tightening the chain. If you remove that bolt, then rotate it beyond that, it starts to loosen the chain.

[barnett468]

To elaborate a little on Red Riders accurate description, the brake bracket should rotate freely on the carrier, if it feels sticky after cleaning, I would sand the inside of the bracket lightly with 400 wet/dry sand paper and water or WD40 . If it still feels sticky, I would do the same to the carrier after inspecting it for burs etc . The point isn't to remove metal as much as it is to remove rust and general crud or small burs . If you remove the carrier you can do the same to the inside of the housing . There are two 0 rings on the carrier, if those are damaged and the honda dealer doesn't have any or there is not a dealer nearby, you can possibly get them at a hardware store or industrial hardware supply store, otherwise probably Ebay.

You need to remove the circlip on the outside of the brake bracket to remove it or the carrier . The carrier removes from the opposite side of the bracket and sometimes requires a little "persuasion".

And here is a link to a free online manual where you will find brakes in section 13.

http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manual...vicemanual.pdf


And here is a pretty picture.

[Onetrackmind]

Yes...I would definitely tear that down for AT LEAST a good cleaning but a full tear down would be the best thing for you.

As Barnett said above, the carrier will likely need some "persuasion" to remove it. The one thing that hasn't been addressed yet is the fact that you have to remove the axle first. That right there proved to be the hardest part for me. No persuasion of any sort helped remove my frozen brake hub. I wound up having to cut my axle apart w a cut-off wheel thus ruining an axle and rear carrier. Ugh....

[bkm]

Yes...I would definitely tear that down for AT LEAST a good cleaning but a full tear down would be the best thing for you.

As Barnett said above, the carrier will likely need some "persuasion" to remove it. The one thing that hasn't been addressed yet is the fact that you have to remove the axle first. That right there proved to be the hardest part for me. No persuasion of any sort helped remove my frozen brake hub. I wound up having to cut my axle apart w a cut-off wheel thus ruining an axle and rear carrier. Ugh....

I have ran into this several times and had to cut the first one off like you did. On the second one, I used a powerful air with a pointed tip and worked the back side of the brake rotor hub outward working around the entire hub and it actually came off pretty easy. I had the same axle/swinger assembly in a press and it wouldn't budge. I did this again with a 350x that was in a flood and it came off with the air pretty easily.

[AngusJustice]

Thanks for all your replies,

My goal is to get everything working without tearing the axle out. I have no play in the rear bearings and I believe both seals are still intact. Therefore I do not want to remove it but I do need to get the rear caliper support to rotate smoothly so That I can adjust my chain on the fly. I have left it overnight covered in penetrating lubricant and I will try to remove it tonight maybe using a little heat to expand the support bracket.

I will let you know how it goes.

[Dirtcrasher]

I take all that crap apart every year; Including caliper slide bolts and check the pads.

Clean/inspect grease it up and put it all back together. I always use the o rings, some guys don't.

I never bang on the left side even if it is almost out, keep using a block of wood on the inside.

I've seen a guy break that adjuster to smash on and it broke off.

Always maintain your trike if you love it......

[barnett468]

Thanks for all your replies,

My goal is to get everything working without tearing the axle out. I have no play in the rear bearings and I believe both seals are still intact. Therefore I do not want to remove it but I do need to get the rear caliper support to rotate smoothly so That I can adjust my chain on the fly. I have left it overnight covered in penetrating lubricant and I will try to remove it tonight maybe using a little heat to expand the support bracket.

I will let you know how it goes.

Be careful with the heat so it doesn't transfer to the o ring and toast it.

If it is still resistant and you have a couple days, you can remove the current oil you put on it and put some KROIL oil on it every several hours . It is sometimes best if the offending object can be placed so it is facing upwards so the oil doesn't run off.