UGH!! 200X Resto/Mod New problem, good timing

[Mackus84]

Sooooooo... I have my 1985 200X in the process of a complete rebuild. Glad i noticed this now when my motor is halfway apart and on the work bench... Anyways, I just got home from work a few minutes ago, i moved my my bottom end over and noticed an oil spot on the wood where it was sitting. So i tipped the motor over and sure enough, looks like right in the damn center of the motor on the bottom, i must have a leaking center case gasket. There are no cracks in the case, and there was a small amount of oil right on the seam. Damnit man!!!!. I was just getting ready to put this motor back together! But im glad i noticed it now rather than after its together and on the bike. So i am gonna go ahead and split the cases and replace all the gaskets. I wasnt going to get into the bottom end on this rebuild, just a fresh top end bore/piston and new valves/guides complete head rebuild which should be here tomorrow or friday. Well now it looks like its coming all the way apart first. So my question is, does anyone have any tips and tricks that i need to follow for the job? Recommendations on which brand of gaskets to use? I have the Honda service manual, and im going to go ahead and order a case splitter to get it done right. Do i need any other special tools for the job? Any help is appreciated. The transmission is a little intimidating i must admit. Thanks in advance! Heres the spot i found
And where it appears to be leaking

[yaegerb]

Useful tools would be a case splitter, flywheel removal tool and the clutch nut tool. Another useful tool is the flywheel/clutch hub holding pliers. I always use vesrah gaskets. Follow the manual, zip lock Baggie everything, properly mark them and you will be fine.

[YTZ drew]

Search for the manual on here, Oscar Mayer has inin PDF form for download on his website.

[Mackus84]

How about OEM gaskets? Found this one on fleabay
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-HONDA-...880?nav=SEARCH

[Mackus84]

Search for the manual on here, Oscar Mayer has inin PDF form for download on his website.

I have the manual already. Thank you though

[wonderboy]

To help this seal up properly on the reassembly:
1. Don't use a metal scraper on the gasket surfaces when removing the old gaskets.
2. Remove all traces of the old gasket using something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-ang...der-32046.html
and this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-3-...kit-61561.html

BE CAREFUL! Do not round over the edges. Use a light touch!

3. Once everything is clean, put down a couple sheets of 400 wet-or-dry on a flat surface (table saw bed for example... must be FLAT!)
4. Use a black Sharpie on the gasket surface of the case halves, spray the wet-or-dry with WD-40, and then put the case half on the wet or dry and carefully (slowly) work the case making sure to hit all the areas evenly.
5. Inspect the surface often. Once all the black sharpie marker is gone everywhere, you are left with nice even gasket surfaces and are good to go.

The point of the above isn't to remove any significant amount of material. It is mainly to take out any local imperfections (dings, nicks, etc). You can start with a fine jewelers file first, but I like to finish up with the sharpie wet-or-dry sanding just to make sure everything is nice and flat.

Also remember: Do not use sealant on those gaskets. The factory didn't, and if you clean the surfaces properly you won't need it.

[Mackus84]

To help this seal up properly on the reassembly:
1. Don't use a metal scraper on the gasket surfaces when removing the old gaskets.
2. Remove all traces of the old gasket using something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-ang...der-32046.html
and this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-3-...kit-61561.html

BE CAREFUL! Do not round over the edges. Use a light touch!

3. Once everything is clean, put down a couple sheets of 400 wet-or-dry on a flat surface (table saw bed for example... must be FLAT!)
4. Use a black Sharpie on the gasket surface of the case halves, spray the wet-or-dry with WD-40, and then put the case half on the wet or dry and carefully (slowly) work the case making sure to hit all the areas evenly.
5. Inspect the surface often. Once all the black sharpie marker is gone everywhere, you are left with nice even gasket surfaces and are good to go.

The point of the above isn't to remove any significant amount of material. It is mainly to take out any local imperfections (dings, nicks, etc). You can start with a fine jewelers file first, but I like to finish up with the sharpie wet-or-dry sanding just to make sure everything is nice and flat.

Also remember: Do not use sealant on those gaskets. The factory didn't, and if you clean the surfaces properly you won't need it.

Awesome. Thanks for the tip! And yeah ill be following the manual to a T so wherever it says use Hondabond I will and wont in the other places. I believe its just the head cover that takes it

[bkm]

This is my personal opinion and mine only, but I do not recommend using the angle grinder with abrasive discs on any aluminum gasket surface, especially not the inside of engine cases where their thickness is paramount in keeping the transmission properly spaced and preventing it from binding.

Personally I use chemical gasket remover and a razor blade all by hand. No gouging tools or air powered grinders get anywhere near any of my gasket surfaces.

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[86125m]

we use our bench grinder with a brass wire wheel to remove old gasket material and then the places where we cant get with the grinder we use a razer blade. just remember to cote the gasket in grease before installation. Just a side note a brass wheel can work wonders when polishing aluminum.

[Mackus84]

I will be using a razor. With my jug I let the gasket surface soak in a tiny tiny bit of water with a little dawn dish soap in it overnight. Just the gasket area. Then scraped it off with a razor layed nearly flat. Worked good for my application. Clean as can be. I will try the same on these if possible

[wonderboy]

I agree with bkm that if done improperly, you can do a lot of harm. However, done right, using the die grinder with the abrasive discs shown can work (it has worked really well for me on my rebuilds). If you're not well versed with the die grinder or unsure of your abilities, then try the other methods for now. Sounds like you have a technique already with the soaking in water which sounds like a real good way.

Just be very careful using a razor blade so you don't gouge the surface.

[Mackus84]

Ive gotten into the motor a little so far. Got the flywheel off and tensioner off, ordered the clutch spanner(i know i couldve made one) but its only 8 bucks and i ha e to wait for my NOS gaskets to come in now anyway. So might as well get the proper tools. Also looks like ill be needing an impact screwdriver for those damn phillips screws on the oil pump parts. The 3 on one part and 2 on the pump itself. I tried getting one off, and couldnt and decided to get the right tool for the job before something got messed up. Anyways, looking at my crank bearing on the left side, it doesnt look great. I cant feel any play or anything and its not noisy, i just think i may go ahead and replace em while im in there. So i know i need the special puller to get them off, tusk has one thats like 60 bucks...but as far as putting the new ones on, is there a "home remedy" like most other stuff on these bikes, or do they HAVE to be pressed on? Or can i use the old freeze and heat method and a piece of pipe on the inner race.? Or should i just buy a whole new(used) crank and bearings off ebay? The cost of the bearings, plus the puller is more than what a nice used crank w bearings costs on ebay.

[Mackus84]

Ok so i got this handy dandy little hand impact driver. Was able to get the oil rotor cover off(3 screws) with it, but the 2 that hold the pump on! What a biotch!!!!. Looks like whoever had the motor before me had a problem w them too. Looks like punch marks. The head is still pretty good for a bit, but these crews wont budge!!!!!!

[Mackus84]

Got em! One of em came out relatively easily, but the other i had to slot with my dremel and use a #3 flathead and was able to get it loose. Whew!! That was a job in its own. Needless to say, i need new oil pump screws now lol

[oscarmayer]

I like to use the oven to heat it up for 10-12 minutes at 250* and then split it. This makes the alloy expand faster than the steel and loosens the bearing grip for the case.


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