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Thread: Chainsaw hard to start

  1. #1
    BarnBoy is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    Chainsaw hard to start

    Hi,

    My Poulan 2150 chainsaw is hard to start. It seems like it floods after a couple pulls. I have tried without priming, on different choke settings, etc. If I can't get it going after 3 or 4 pulls, then I have to pull forever even to get it to fire once. I did just put a new carb on it, could it be that I need to adjust something on it? Any suggestions?

    Thanks
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  3. #3
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    I bought the poulan as well and unfortunately I got what I paid for. See if you have spark. Later this year I will be upgrading to a stihl.
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  4. #4
    BarnBoy is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    Well, I got it for free. I would never buy a Poulan. It has good spark and good compression, but feels like it floods after a few pulls. It sputters on the first few, then nothing. I have had it running, and when it runs it runs good. But I think I am going to try and get rid of it.
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  5. #5
    fabiodriven's Avatar
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    Chainsaw hard to start

    To each their own but if someone gave me one I'd pick it up once only to drop it in the trash. Those take the term "shoddy" to their own level. I wouldn't reach for a screwdriver to adjust the carburetor (if it were adjustable, which it isn't). Any time I've seen one of those they're either brand new or not running. They're disposable, made to fail, and a waste of time.


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  6. #6
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    True that like many things, chainsaw world has it's cheap throw-away models, and EVERY brand across the board has their cheap models. Often they are classified as "homeowner" models...

    Anywho, you say you replaced the carb. Are you 100% certain it is the correct carb? And why did you replace it?? Saw carb issues usually can be easily remedied with a good cleaning and a kit. Metering lever height is crucial and if too high the saw will flood out bad pretty fast. You say it seems like it is flooding, is the plug soaked after attempting to start it?? I only know of a couple of models of saws that have completely non-adjustable jets other than the new Autotune and M-tronic models offered by Husky and Stihl respectively. All others have some level of adjustment, but are limited with little caps mandated by the EPA.

    Also, what is the condition of the fuel line, fuel filter, tank vent and primer lines?? A problem with these is often blamed on an innocent carb.

    Need a little more info from ya.

    Most saws can be tuned up and repaired, even the cheap models. The concern is not putting more $$$ into it than it is worth.

    Or you could buy a Husky 372 and an unlimited coil and send it to me for porting! LOL! I've been really into saws lately.
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  7. #7
    BarnBoy is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    Quote Originally Posted by RIDE-RED 250r View Post
    True that like many things, chainsaw world has it's cheap throw-away models, and EVERY brand across the board has their cheap models. Often they are classified as "homeowner" models...

    Anywho, you say you replaced the carb. Are you 100% certain it is the correct carb? And why did you replace it?? Saw carb issues usually can be easily remedied with a good cleaning and a kit. Metering lever height is crucial and if too high the saw will flood out bad pretty fast. You say it seems like it is flooding, is the plug soaked after attempting to start it?? I only know of a couple of models of saws that have completely non-adjustable jets other than the new Autotune and M-tronic models offered by Husky and Stihl respectively. All others have some level of adjustment, but are limited with little caps mandated by the EPA.

    Also, what is the condition of the fuel line, fuel filter, tank vent and primer lines?? A problem with these is often blamed on an innocent carb.

    Need a little more info from ya.

    Most saws can be tuned up and repaired, even the cheap models. The concern is not putting more $$$ into it than it is worth.

    Or you could buy a Husky 372 and an unlimited coil and send it to me for porting! LOL! I've been really into saws lately.
    Yes it is the correct carb as far as I can tell. It was listed to fit this model. I replaced it because this saw had been sitting it the dirt, and had dirt all over inside the carb. I tried but it wouldn't even sputter with the old carb. And I figured that since a new one was so cheap, I may as well get it instead of a kit. The carb was 11 bucks.

    I adjusted the low and high mixture screw so it would run at lower rpms on idle. The plug is soaked after a few pulls.

    I put brand new fuel lines in, new primer bulb and air filter.

    Yeah, I don't want to put too much into it.

    I would love a husky, but don't really have a use for it now. Just got this one for the odd trimming, etc. I dont do a lot of cutting, but there have been times when I wished I had a small saw. But even though I only occasionally use it, I don't want to rip my arm off trying to get it going.

    Thanks for the response. Hope this helps.
    1984 HONDA ATC200M - OG, mid-restoration
    1981 HONDA ATC200 - future build
    1981 HONDA ATC185S - parts
    1984 ATC200X - roller, future build
    1984 Honda ATC250r - in a million pieces- ISO grab bar, PM if you have one

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    Quote Originally Posted by RIDE-RED 250r View Post
    Or you could buy a Husky 372 and an unlimited coil and send it to me for porting! LOL! I've been really into saws lately.
    I have a stock 372... Am I missing out??? What is an unlimited coil? More rpm?
    2-stroke lover

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarnBoy View Post
    Yeah, I don't want to put too much into it.
    .
    Too late!!
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  10. #10
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    NEW plug,not a clean used one,new. If the same, adjust away on the carb.. Other than that, what Red rider said . I have had horrible,horrible results with my last 2 purchases from Stihl, they won't ever get a cent of my money again. But that is just me
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  11. #11
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    I was all hot and heavy ready to drop $$$$ on a new saw. I looked at Stihl, Husky, and Dolmar last year. I went to the local Stihl dealer and the guy there was honest and very cool. I told him my old saw is a 028 super wood boss I bought off of craigslist for $150. He asked what was wrong with it? I said it's a hard starting mother, but once warm it runs all day. He told he he'd bet the farm the air filter/choke mechanism was bad and for $30 my old saw would cut circles around any of the new "Junk" he has sitting on the shelf.

    He even said if the filter cage doesn't fix it, bring it back and not only would he refund my $, he'd throw in a new carring case for any new saw I wanted to buy, but if I wanted a new saw that would cut like my old 028, I'd have to step up to the ms261 which is the only stihl he'd recommend to replace my old one. He said I wouldn't be impressed with a new saw that has the same engine size as my old one, I'd have to go bigger because the EPA has choked them down so bad, you need twice the new saw to cut like the older ones.

    For $30 my saw will now start in 0 degree weather on two pulls and runs like a raped ape. I guess the moral of my story is, look around for a nice used older saw and even if you have to drop a few $ into it, they will out last and out perform a lot of the new junk that is out there today. I have $180 into my saw not counting chains and a new bar I put on it, but any saw will eventualy need those.

    The old Husky Ranchers and Wood Boss Stihls are hard to beat for the $ these days.

  12. #12
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    Back to basics; fuel, compression & spark is all you need. Does it have enough compression & what does the factory recommend?
    JT

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkm View Post
    I was all hot and heavy ready to drop $$$$ on a new saw. I looked at Stihl, Husky, and Dolmar last year. I went to the local Stihl dealer and the guy there was honest and very cool. I told him my old saw is a 028 super wood boss I bought off of craigslist for $150. He asked what was wrong with it? I said it's a hard starting mother, but once warm it runs all day. He told he he'd bet the farm the air filter/choke mechanism was bad and for $30 my old saw would cut circles around any of the new "Junk" he has sitting on the shelf.

    He even said if the filter cage doesn't fix it, bring it back and not only would he refund my $, he'd throw in a new carring case for any new saw I wanted to buy, but if I wanted a new saw that would cut like my old 028, I'd have to step up to the ms261 which is the only stihl he'd recommend to replace my old one. He said I wouldn't be impressed with a new saw that has the same engine size as my old one, I'd have to go bigger because the EPA has choked them down so bad, you need twice the new saw to cut like the older ones.

    For $30 my saw will now start in 0 degree weather on two pulls and runs like a raped ape. I guess the moral of my story is, look around for a nice used older saw and even if you have to drop a few $ into it, they will out last and out perform a lot of the new junk that is out there today. I have $180 into my saw not counting chains and a new bar I put on it, but any saw will eventualy need those.

    The old Husky Ranchers and Wood Boss Stihls are hard to beat for the $ these days.
    Every time I buy something used, I take it home and perform basic maintenance items: Check/clean/replace filters, change fluids, drain and flush the fuel tank to eliminate water and dirt (see below), remove and clean the carb and put on new fuel lines, if it runs when I buy it I spend the money for a quality carb kit and put it in. Put in a new plug even if it looks good. I put the old one in my spare parts box or the tool kit for that particular machine. Check/adjust/lube belts, chains, and cables. Hit every zerk with grease, if grease won't go in the zerk pull the zerk and clean or replace it

    As a decently skilled non-professional mechanic I have found one constant thru all of my years of wrenching: 95% of people don't take care of their stuff maintenance-wise. They run it till it drops then can't figure out why it died, then b!tch about how much it costs to repair it.

    I don't want my toys to run, I want them to run great.

    ETA: As far as draining and flushing the fuel tank goes, condensation can build up over time even if your store your machines inside. Dust and dirt settles on top of fuel containers, especially when driving down dirt roads and such, and if you don't clean off the top of the can that dirt goes right into your tank. You'd be amazed at how much dirt and crap I've found in the bottom of fuel tanks, particularly on machines owned by people live in rural areas with dirt roads, field roads and driveways.
    Quote Originally Posted by fabiodriven View Post
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cr480r View Post
    I have a stock 372... Am I missing out??? What is an unlimited coil? More rpm?
    What he said! ^

    What about other models?
    Quote Originally Posted by fabiodriven View Post
    Trick the people into thinking they're enacting their own will and you have willing slaves.

    Liberalism suspends the intellect of its victims, while at the same time tricking them into believing that they're smarter than everyone else.


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    Chainsaw hard to start

    Scooter those little Huskies we got are the tits eh? What model was that? Mine's been great anyway. I was told my Husky 576XP was a turd by someone who supposedly knows, but it's been great! Got that one new in 2012.


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